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What broke on your Pathfinder today?


johnjohndoe
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1 hour ago, onespiritbrain said:

Is that spacer supposed to be visible from the engine bay when you take the rubber grommet off? What happens if the spacer is not installed??

 

The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of).  The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled.  If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time.

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14 hours ago, hawairish said:
16 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

Is that spacer supposed to be visible from the engine bay when you take the rubber grommet off? What happens if the spacer is not installed??

 

The spacer isn't visible (not sure what rubber grummet you speak of).  The pic is of the bottom of the spacer, so it gets installed when the strut is assembled.  If the spacer isn't installed, the non-keyed portion of the strut shaft will eventually dig into the metal insert of the mount and eventually allow for 1/2" of vertical play, which may also wallow out the hole over time.

 

9pUhaIF.jpg

 

I think he's talking about this rubber grommet! I didn't know they existed, but found a set at the junkyard and threw them on my 3.3L. Keeps water out and stuff.

Edited by zakzackzachary
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  • 4 weeks later...
 
9pUhaIF.jpg
I think he's talking about this rubber grommet! I didn't know they existed, but found a set at the junkyard and threw them on my 3.3L. Keeps water out and stuff.

Ha, I haven’t seen those either - I’ll have to keep an eye out.
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  • 2 weeks later...

It looks like those little spacers are important... the new strut mounts I put in last time are now wallowed out. I locked the nut up top down as tight as was possible holding the shaft with channel locks but the rubber on the inside now spins around with the shaft. I cant tell if this is going to allow the whole thing to become dislodged again. Dang it..

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2 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

It looks like those little spacers are important... the new strut mounts I put in last time are now wallowed out. I locked the nut up top down as tight as was possible holding the shaft with channel locks but the rubber on the inside now spins around with the shaft. I cant tell if this is going to allow the whole thing to become dislodged again. Dang it..

 

NooooooooO! Check out post #90 and the ones that follow my build thread. I tried to spread the word more, but it didn't get to you :( Let me know if you have any questions, but you'll need to disassemble and rebuild your struts properly.

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That my friend is why my work boots are steel toes. Even though most of the shops I have worked in don't require them, I still wear steel toes because I know how clumsy I can be. Hope the toe heals quickly.

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I noticed the last few times I started the truck, fuel would start dripping from the back, to the right of the fuel tank. The lines all look good, and it seems to stop after 5-10 minutes of running which is even more odd. I'm going to assume it is something to do with the sending unit or the rubber hoses up top. Yay!

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On 10/22/2019 at 7:06 PM, Mr_Reverse said:

That my friend is why my work boots are steel toes. Even though most of the shops I have worked in don't require them, I still wear steel toes because I know how clumsy I can be. Hope the toe heals quickly.

Steel ties are a double edged sword. On one end it will protect against things like this, on another hand they have been known to slice your toes off. Better broken than severed. That's why a lot of places dont allow them. Personally I stick with steel toes

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6 hours ago, Charlie_Brown said:

Steel ties are a double edged sword. On one end it will protect against things like this, on another hand they have been known to slice your toes off. Better broken than severed. That's why a lot of places dont allow them. Personally I stick with steel toes

 

I like composite toes, they'll protect to a point then break rather than bend. Plus they don't get cold in winter.

 

If it came down to steel toes or nothing I'd take steel though.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Last night one of the spring cups on my driver side drum came loose causing the drum to get smoking hot and the shoes to seize.

Had to fix everything in the Kroger parking lot at 11pm in the freezing cold! Dang it!

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How the hell did you get that pivot pin out with the tabs intact?  I quickly lost patience with mine and gave it a very aggressive haircut. I'd almost forgotten about it until I saw your picture and wondered why it made me angry. What went wrong with the booster?

 

Also, nobody chooses the piss-bottle life. The piss-bottle life chooses you.

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I got lucky pressing the tabs in with a flat head screw driver. I was not so lucky at the junk yard.. I lost my mind trying to remove the blasted thing and busted my knuckles pretty bad while I was freaking out.

There’s blood all over that pathfinder lol people are going to think something bad happened in it!

Mine was leaking a little all the time and began to really leak badly when you first started pressing the brake pedal and down to about half way. It made the engine start misfiring when it would leak badly and then the brakes would be extremely stiff to the point where I couldn’t stop quickly if I needed to.

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Last night one of the spring cups on my driver side drum came loose causing the drum to get smoking hot and the shoes to seize.

Had to fix everything in the Kroger parking lot at 11pm in the freezing cold! Dang it!
Bro, you need my #!
I would have come any gave you a hand.

Gonna PM it to you for future reference!

Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...

Not my truck but an inquiry by a non-forum member (Edit - now new Forum member [mention=43340]SaveTheManuals[/mention] )

 

6e1677e89fa5dcabbf1372e3c6313a3f.jpg

 

My advice: On the bottom is at least the best place for that. I’d first try making another hole a little inboard. Another option that would be easy is some 3M double sided tape. All of those approaches would be cheap & easy & you’re out nothing but a little tape cleanup if they fail. Considering 3M tape holds spoilers on cars, it should be able to do that - just be sure to clean the application surface with something like alcohol first.

 

 

 

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I'm guessing the question was how to rehang the door seal. If you look closely you will see a line of tiny plastic clips. The wings of those clips went through small holes in the seal. If careful, those clips can be pulled out and be reinstalled in the seal. Then they can simply be pushed back into the holes in the door. I have also worked the clips back into the holes in the seal without removing the clips, but it is a bit more work. 

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Those clips usually break off on one side and the rubber falls out, or is torn out. If you got some gasket sealer around I think even the high temp stuff would work on holding onto the rubber, just an idea i’m going to attempt on mine since interior and especially exterior rubber trim costs almost as much as what most people pay for entire vehicle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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