Jump to content

Rodian Pro RA8 tires?


MTGunner
 Share

Recommended Posts

OK, have been searching tires for my 2000 SE. I have decided upon 265/70R16 with a 2” lift. Now, I have looked at many tires online and in Walmart. Has anyone experience with Nexen Roadian Pro RA8 tires? This will be for moderate off roading and daily driving. The RA8 has a 5 star rating with multiple tire online sellers. Just looking for someone with practicle experience. MTG

Edited by MTGunner
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully someone has used those tires, but if not, for $15 more per tire, you could get falken Wildpeak AT3W’s. Those have a definite following and good reputations. They’ve got the fancy schmancy snow symbol on them and do really well in snow and off-road. Should be able to get them with a 55k mike warranty too. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will consider the Falken as they are listed as a LT, light truck, tire. I have an older set of Nexen RA8’s on my 2000 Xterra that still service well. I have been considering a 265/70R16 for my 2000 Pathfinder with a 2” lift. There are currently 255/65R16 General tires on it now, but looking for better tread, better sidewall and overall better off road performance. I looked at the Falken Wildpeak AT3W’s on Walmart in the 255/70R16XL. Seem to be a good match. Actually want to look at the sidewall construction as do some off roading in rocky terrain and with this model may not have to do a 2” lift. Thanks for the heads up. MTG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it's not what you're looking at but I will never buy anything but duratracs for my Pathy again, they're fantastic in literally every situation. AT-like pattern in the middle with thicker MT-like blocks on the outside all with good siping. They also have ridges between all the tread blocks as well for extra grippiness (I guess?). Regardless, this makes them super quiet (for a MT) and get really decent gas mileage, and they do well in all terrains. Great at clearing thick mud and snow, but also good for packed snow in town because of their siping, and the softer rubber they use doesn't harden up when it gets cold out which makes a huge difference for winter driving. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pathydude17, Walmart lists two Falken AT3W tires on the same page. One listed at $98 and the other at $120.....? Both look identical but different order numbers. Micah, who makes the duratracs that you speak of? MTG

Edited by MTGunner
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, MTGunner said:

Pathydude17, Walmart lists two Falken AT3W tires on the same page. One listed at $98 and the other at $120.....? Both look identical but different order numbers. Micah, who makes the duratracs that you speak of? MTG

 

Those two different ones will be different load ranges; C and E.  E is more heavy duty (thicker slidewalls, etc.) but much heavier (so worse fuel economy, braking, etc.).  The Duratracs are made by Goodyear, it's the most gnarly version of the Wrangler tires they make.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mojo, the heavier load range and thicker sidewall would be better here for my off roading. Our home is in NW Montana although we spend our winters in SW New New Mexico. Our 2000 Pathfinder stays down here at our lease lot and no snow to speak of. But, lots of off roading in the desert and mountains. I would like to avoid a 2” lift but would do so if need be. Fuel mileage is not a issue as we put about 5000-6000 miles on each winter here near Deming, NM. I like the idea of the LT tire for better rock resistance. I know that no tire is indestructible regarding rocks and rough roads. But will continue to listen to what all have information to offer before I make a decision. MTG

Edited by MTGunner
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No real reason. Just think it unnecessary with good tires and judicious off road  activity.  Here in the SW desert there is lots of trails, but no real rock climbing that I am in to. Yes, I do want to avoid cactus, mesquite thorns, some rocky terrain and etc. But, I do this as need be when I am out offroading. Just want best suitable safe options for my off road needs. Do not need to build a romping stomping off road machine. That I have in my Xterra at home in Montana. 

If, in fact, I do decide to do a 2" suspension lift, which kit would I best choose? MTG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, MTGunner said:

No real reason. Just think it unnecessary with good tires and judicious off road  activity.  Here in the SW desert there is lots of trails, but no real rock climbing that I am in to. Yes, I do want to avoid cactus, mesquite thorns, some rocky terrain and etc. But, I do this as need be when I am out offroading. Just want best suitable safe options for my off road needs. Do not need to build a romping stomping off road machine. That I have in my Xterra at home in Montana. 

If, in fact, I do decide to do a 2" suspension lift, which kit would I best choose? MTG

If you don’t do anything too extreme and you just do some desert wheeling like we do out here in AZ. Some lift spacers from sfcreation should really do the trick. Here’s a link. 97 plus shipping ain’t bad 

https://sfcreation.com/products/1-all-around-lift-kit-84f2baaa-8707-453a-8a8b-41fe2368d719

Edited by Sjackson2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems like a simple 2" lift to install. Have to give it some thought. Thanks. MTG

I looked at the website and the reviews. Do not have a spring compressor. Can this be done without spring compressor? MTG

Edited by MTGunner
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, MTGunner said:

Seems like a simple 2" lift to install. Have to give it some thought. Thanks. MTG

I looked at the website and the reviews. Do not have a spring compressor. Can this be done without spring compressor? MTG

Not on the front. Rear can be done without usually. You can rent spring compressors for free from auto parts stores like auto zone and oreilly 

Edited by Sjackson2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, PathyDude17 said:

Not gonna lie, I fully regret my spacer lift. It’s getting replaced this month. If you go with spacers make sure you’re fully aware with what that does to your rig

What do you regret about it? It’s definitely not on the level of a spring lift....but lots of people seem happy with them 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, Sjackson2 said:

What do you regret about it? It’s definitely not on the level of a spring lift....but lots of people seem happy with them 

It makes your rig less capable. You run the risk of blowing up or binding a CV if you get a wheel in the air, because your CV axles droop (in my case) 2.5” below what they’re supposed to run at. No one who regularly off-roads their rig sticks with a spacer of more than 1” for very long, theyre just too unreliable. One guy blew 4 axles in one off-road trip because he was on front spacers. Not to mention, you gain no load bearing or handling performance that a spring lift provides, and your articulation doesn’t increase as much because your springs still aren’t very stiff. Until I got manual hubs, my passenger side CV clicked at full lock really badly, and that’s not uncommon. If you want to go off-road and carry lots of stuff and have normal handling, get springs. If you wanna drive to the mall in your shiny Nissan, get spacers. I only say this because of how many build threads I’ve read. Look at just about anyone who starts with spacers but is serious about taking their rig places. They eventually get coils springs, which hardly cost more than a spacer lift anyway. I’m really not trying to offend anyone, but that’s how I see it given the loads of research I’ve done on this forum and my own experience with a spacer lift. nobodies ever Blown up their CV’s on a coil spring lift, let alone experienced binding. Spacers have their place, but know what you’re getting into and why you want them. Again, I’m not hating on people who run spacers, I just see a lot of people start with spacers only to get coil springs later. Don’t make the same mistake as me. Save yourself time and money. Rant over

Edited by PathyDude17
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, MTGunner said:

I will consider the Falken as they are listed as a LT, light truck, tire. I have an older set of Nexen RA8’s on my 2000 Xterra that still service well. I have been considering a 265/70R16 for my 2000 Pathfinder with a 2” lift. There are currently 255/65R16 General tires on it now, but looking for better tread, better sidewall and overall better off road performance. I looked at the Falken Wildpeak AT3W’s on Walmart in the 255/70R16XL. Seem to be a good match. Actually want to look at the sidewall construction as do some off roading in rocky terrain and with this model may not have to do a 2” lift. Thanks for the heads up. MTG

I have been running Old Man Emu MD springs on all corners (approximately 3/4 inch over fresh stock height) for over 120k miles on my 01 SE. Initially I was running 255/70 Yokohama AT2's, as that is what I replaced the original 255/65 Toyo's with, had no issues at stock height. Once I needed tires again (after the spring swap), I went with 265/70 General AT2's which cleared the front struts by just enough to be comfortable with. I was recently due for tires again, spent about a month doing research, finally decided on the Falken Wildpeak AT3W'S (ordered from tirebuyer.com & had delivered to a local firestone, less expensive than anywhere else I could find). It turns out the Falken must run a little larger than average, as the 265's rubbed the struts. They actually had a set of 255's in stock and they were super cool about swapping to those. Had I wanted to buy & install wheel spacers, the 265's would've worked, but I didn't want to go that route. Keep in mind, any change in lift height has absolutely no effect on the distance between the wheel mounting surface and coil bucket on the struts, only wheel backspace/offset can play a role there. Over the years I ran 3 different manufacturers of 265/70 (Goodyear Silent Armor, Definity AT & General Grabber AT2's), all on the same set of factory wheels, without rubbing. Also, as far as the Falkens go, the 265's had a 4 ply sidewall, whereas the 255's have a 6 ply, so I'm probably better off in the end. I've had them for a few thousand miles now, in every type of weather (except extreme heat) and they've been impressive.

 

As far as your thoughts about lifting, although I love Steve's products, my suggestion would be to look into OME springs, as they have held up really well, do firm up the ride, but not to an uncomfortable point and they also handle a load far better than stock (no more bottoming out with some gear, or 2 people in the back). I'm approaching 130k miles on my MD springs and I'm preparing to freshen things up, as they're finally losing a bit of cargo carrying capacity (I frequently tow a loaded trailer or trunk full of tools), so I'm going with the md's again (approximately $170/set, but we'll worth every penny).

 

Sorry for the long winded read, but figured it couldn't hurt to offer all the information I could.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well said @pathydude17, Steve is a great guy, a great asset to this niche market and his products are of phenomenal quality, but you're very correct, if you flex your R50 out with any sort of regularity, don't go over 1" on spacers.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:

It makes your rig less capable. You run the risk of blowing up or binding a CV if you get a wheel in the air, because your CV axles droop (in my case) 2.5” below what they’re supposed to run at. No one who regularly off-roads their rig sticks with a spacer of more than 1” for very long, theyre just too unreliable. One guy blew 4 axles in one off-road trip because he was on front spacers. Not to mention, you gain no load bearing or handling performance that a spring lift provides, and your articulation doesn’t increase as much because your springs still aren’t very stiff. Until I got manual hubs, my passenger side CV clicked at full lock really badly, and that’s not uncommon. If you want to go off-road and carry lots of stuff and have normal handling, get springs. If you wanna drive to the mall in your shiny Nissan, get spacers. I only say this because of how many build threads I’ve read. Look at just about anyone who starts with spacers but is serious about taking their rig places. They eventually get coils springs, which hardly cost more than a spacer lift anyway. I’m really not trying to offend anyone, but that’s how I see it given the loads of research I’ve done on this forum and my own experience with a spacer lift. nobodies ever Blown up their CV’s on a coil spring lift, let alone experienced binding. Spacers have their place, but know what you’re getting into and why you want them. Again, I’m not hating on people who run spacers, I just see a lot of people start with spacers only to get coil springs later. Don’t make the same mistake as me. Save yourself time and money. Rant over

 

I completely agree with you on this. I will  be installing that Russian SFD kit sometime next month. Too bad no one makes a solid kit like the guys over in Russia.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Astrorami said:

 

I completely agree with you on this. I will  be installing that Russian SFD kit sometime next month. Too bad no one makes a solid kit like the guys over in Russia.

I’ve see. That kit and it looks good....but I’ve never seen anyone running one and I’m concerned about build quality? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve see. That kit and it looks good....but I’ve never seen anyone running one and I’m concerned about build quality? 


I’m not concerned about quality. Those guys seem to know what they’re doing in terms of welds and engineering. Plus if their sfd kit can survive Russian roads, then it can withstand mostly anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Astrorami said:

 


I’m not concerned about quality. Those guys seem to know what they’re doing in terms of welds and engineering. Plus if their sfd kit can survive Russian roads, then it can withstand mostly anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I’m wondering where they got their specs though? From what I understand the other guy that selling sfd kits on that Facebook page has been peddling kits with bad geometry for the strut spacers and that’s why he doesn’t make them anymore. If this guy is using the same plans there could be some issues? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is a well built kit though I’m in. It only comes to around 300 USd shipped to me 

I’m not concerned about the cost. I doubt the Russians copied their plans from someone. I’ve even seen them make solid wheel spacer kits. I’m not familiar with the other person selling the bad kits but I all can say is not cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...