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The Spicy Truck(my build)


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Came out really nice. Looks great!

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Thank you! Itll be time to figure out a rear bumper at somepoint in the relatively near future lol

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So to date this is what ive got goin:

 

Relocated knock sensor to front center of engine.

Started with 2" spacers and ended with nrc9448 springs some Bilstein 33185569 5125 shocks for the rear. (Still havent drilled a new panhard bar hole so my axle sits half an inch to the left).

 

The front also had spacers first but once the stock struts finally went i went down the speedwaymotor rabbit hole and purchased trucoil purple racing springs with 250 pound per inch compression and a spacer for it to sit onin the new strut, allowing us to cut off the extra large seating for the stock spring and have more room for tire there and not just a sketchy quarter inch. All of which i learned from[mention=40517]Bax03SE[/mention] as he did it first. Only thing i did different was avoid sfd by taking off my old spacers. I might put one inch back on bc i can so why not at some point.

 

I wouldve left my running boards on had half the bolts not looked like they were going to fall off any minute. Theyre strong and when in good shape make for some good extra protection. Id like to fit some actual steel rock sliders at some point somehow.

 

Ive taken off all of the bumper covers and fender flares for rust repair and everything off the rear stayed off its still off i have no rear bumper. Oh well . ill put one on when I find a way im pleased with. I left the metal bumper inside on the front and held harbor frieght lights on it for a long time while i worked on the brackets to fit a TJ wrangler to the front which just went on two weeks ago now i wanna say.

 

Ive put manual hubs on the front and changed both cvs as the originals were torn and not clicking. So i purchased a kit to rebuild them. I also found that ultra black gasket maker will fix a small one inch tear near the clamp. Btw if the cvs have never been done SCREW THOSE BOLTS ON THE DIFF SIDE holy cr@p i cracked two 12 mm sockets on that 16 year old locktite(?).

 

Up next:

 

Next week im doing a drain and fill with some good ole nissan matic d for the tranny and hopefully by then ill have figured out which is the actual correct fluid for my tc. I have the stick shift tc and manuals ive seen online have said either the matic d or 75w90 will work. But that its ok for both. That doesnt make sense? If it does pls enlighten me.

 

Diff fluids get changed next month too any recomemdations there would also be good.

 

New lights up front with the dang clamps. ..if i have to.. id prefer to use the two tabs i have at the very top or maybe utilize the single ones i have that almost line up with where the original stock fog lights were. Which i also still have but the tabs broke on one of them i believe.

 

That whole rear bumper not being there situation will be dealt with at some point.

 

Ive also been thinking of a cb because thats probably important but im just not quite sold on it.

 

 

 

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I don’t get around here much anymore, but your rig is looking great! I’m glad to see someone else do the TJ bumper build, I think it’s a great look for the R50. Did you tie in to the upper bumper mounts at all as well? For reference here’s a pic of how I did the brackets on mine. 222ac79c722db577a924158f9d041e9a.jpg
This place makes me miss my old R50! If I hadn’t found myself in need of a full size truck for work I’d still have it!


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I don’t get around here much anymore, but your rig is looking great! I’m glad to see someone else do the TJ bumper build, I think it’s a great look for the R50. Did you tie in to the upper bumper mounts at all as well? For reference here’s a pic of how I did the brackets on mine. 222ac79c722db577a924158f9d041e9a.jpg
This place makes me miss my old R50! If I hadn’t found myself in need of a full size truck for work I’d still have it!


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Thank you so much! I think theyre great for the r50 too, i love the view from the top of my driveway down at it everytime i get the mail lmao. I have not tied them in yet but, i did use the entire bottom of the bumper front to back length as attatchment surface to the bracket of course welding the hell out of the outside as well as inside and it uses all three of the bolts for the tow hook. It holds the weight of the truck with no scary sounds or anything which is nice and i also drilled the holes out to fit 7/8ths grade 8 bolts for it. Its good and strong to kill a deer if it jumps out but i definetly will be tying that top hole in in the future. itll be real easy because i only need the one bolt up there and can weld the undrilled length up on top and mark the spot because i can actually get a damn sharpie up there for that hole. Just gotta get more metal first lol. Then id be confident in a winch plate being fitted to the thing

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Just a quick stock vs not pic of my new rig to show what I’ve been up to. It’s a new truck under warranty so I’m keeping mods minimal, but just a little 2” lift and some wheels and tires to set it apart a little. In case you can’t guess, mine is the black one, lol. 9f236a94a9a5013ec1871f399cb0a94d.jpg
I’m kind of jonesing to have a project vehicle again though, so I’ve been thinking of picking up another R50 or perhaps a WJ grand Cherokee to build another trail rig on the side.


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Just a quick stock vs not pic of my new rig to show what I’ve been up to. It’s a new truck under warranty so I’m keeping mods minimal, but just a little 2” lift and some wheels and tires to set it apart a little. In case you can’t guess, mine is the black one, lol. 9f236a94a9a5013ec1871f399cb0a94d.jpgI’m kind of jonesing to have a project vehicle again though, so I’ve been thinking of picking up another R50 or perhaps a WJ grand Cherokee to build another trail rig on the side.  

 

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 Thats looking good still theyre aggressive trucks plus it definetly deserves those 2" it makes big difference in look over stock. As though its more natural to the look of the truck.

 

Dude i found my girlfriend the sickest wj, it is an 04 that was one owner by a jeep guy who wrote every service with the mileage in the engine bay he did which was also spotless, and it had the good part time transfercase, with limited slips front and back, AND 79, 000 miles which was nuts and on top of all that... It was a 4.0

 

She loves that wagon so damn much

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hello i haven't posted much on here i haven't gotten around to it. i will be updating my page in the near future. I was curios what thickness of steel did you use to weld to and mount your bumper. It looks great and your rig inspired me to copy it. 

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  • 2 months later...
Hello i haven't posted much on here i haven't gotten around to it. i will be updating my page in the near future. I was curios what thickness of steel did you use to weld to and mount your bumper. It looks great and your rig inspired me to copy it. 
Sorry its taken so long but that's 1/4 inch

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On 10/27/2019 at 10:59 AM, spicyheckboi said:

So to date this is what ive got goin:

 

Relocated knock sensor to front center of engine.

Started with 2" spacers and ended with nrc9448 springs some Bilstein 33185569 5125 shocks for the rear. (Still havent drilled a new panhard bar hole so my axle sits half an inch to the left).

 

The front also had spacers first but once the stock struts finally went i went down the speedwaymotor rabbit hole and purchased trucoil purple racing springs with 250 pound per inch compression and a spacer for it to sit onin the new strut, allowing us to cut off the extra large seating for the stock spring and have more room for tire there and not just a sketchy quarter inch. All of which i learned from[mention=40517]Bax03SE[/mention] as he did it first. Only thing i did different was avoid sfd by taking off my old spacers. I might put one inch back on bc i can so why not at some point.

 

I wouldve left my running boards on had half the bolts not looked like they were going to fall off any minute. Theyre strong and when in good shape make for some good extra protection. Id like to fit some actual steel rock sliders at some point somehow.

 

Ive taken off all of the bumper covers and fender flares for rust repair and everything off the rear stayed off its still off i have no rear bumper. Oh well . ill put one on when I find a way im pleased with. I left the metal bumper inside on the front and held harbor frieght lights on it for a long time while i worked on the brackets to fit a TJ wrangler to the front which just went on two weeks ago now i wanna say.

 

Ive put manual hubs on the front and changed both cvs as the originals were torn and not clicking. So i purchased a kit to rebuild them. I also found that ultra black gasket maker will fix a small one inch tear near the clamp. Btw if the cvs have never been done SCREW THOSE BOLTS ON THE DIFF SIDE holy cr@p i cracked two 12 mm sockets on that 16 year old locktite(?).

 

Up next:

 

Next week im doing a drain and fill with some good ole nissan matic d for the tranny and hopefully by then ill have figured out which is the actual correct fluid for my tc. I have the stick shift tc and manuals ive seen online have said either the matic d or 75w90 will work. But that its ok for both. That doesnt make sense? If it does pls enlighten me.

 

Diff fluids get changed next month too any recomemdations there would also be good.

 

New lights up front with the dang clamps. ..if i have to.. id prefer to use the two tabs i have at the very top or maybe utilize the single ones i have that almost line up with where the original stock fog lights were. Which i also still have but the tabs broke on one of them i believe.

 

That whole rear bumper not being there situation will be dealt with at some point.

 

Ive also been thinking of a cb because thats probably important but im just not quite sold on it.

 

 

 

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I think they look better without the oem running boards anyways 

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  • 3 months later...

I would’ve left my running boards on had half the bolts not looked like they were going to fall off any minute. Theyre strong and when in good shape make for some good extra protection. Id like to fit some actual steel rock sliders at some point somehow.

 

Ive taken off all of the bumper covers and fender flares...

 

Ive also been thinking of a cb because thats probably important but im just not quite sold on it.

Was the problem with the running board mounts rust? Was it the whole mounting area or just the bolts? Personally, I’m an advocate as I think the truck looks unfinished without running boards or sliders. The low profile LE sliders offer some protection, are useful for accessing a rack up front, are a necessity for women & kids & just add a nice complementary line across the bottom. I would think spare bolts or even running boards should be a dime a dozen.

 

So the fenders are going back on?

 

Honestly, CB is really dated. Some people run them but GMRS & Ham have largely replaced it. I bought a fancy new CB but it’s still in it’s box because myself & those I travel with have all come to prefer GMRS. I regret buying my CB & will likely never mount it. On the other hand, I’m buying additional GMRS units for my kids & wife & anyone who joins us without one. The hand units have impressive reach & allow easy communication with spotters on foot. They can also talk with both Ham & FRS which increases their versatility (non-licensed can be on FRS channels). Ham has many of the same benefits but requires a test for licensure & that license doesn’t cover family members (GMRS is simply pay & your whole family is included).

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Was the problem with the running board mounts rust? Was it the whole mounting area or just the bolts? Personally, I’m an advocate as I think the truck looks unfinished without running boards or sliders. The low profile LE sliders offer some protection, are useful for accessing a rack up front, are a necessity for women & kids & just add a nice complementary line across the bottom. I would think spare bolts or even running boards should be a dime a dozen.

So the fenders are going back on?

Honestly, CB is really dated. Some people run them but GMRS & Ham have largely replaced it. I bought a fancy new CB but it’s still in it’s box because myself & those I travel with have all come to prefer GMRS. I regret buying my CB & will likely never mount it. On the other hand, I’m buying additional GMRS units for my kids & wife & anyone who joins us without one. The hand units have impressive reach & allow easy communication with spotters on foot. They can also talk with both Ham & FRS which increases their versatility. Ham has many of the same benefits but requires a test for licensure & that license doesn’t cover family members.
Their issue was that bolts were already broken off, plus i had snapped one taking off the driver side so i ended up leaving them off. Lately i have been thinking about how i miss them though, i might still get ahold of a set to throw on. Near me and the people i go wheeling with we all have cbs, i have been neglecting my account here on progress...
Ham radios are 100% cooler, my cb is basically just trail use anyway though.

I now have a cb installed, finished painting the black stripe all the way around and trimmed the front fenders evenly (fricken FINALLY) i dont want to do the sfd, this setup handles better than my mk4 golf, so i trimmed off 3/4 of an inch around the wheel well to let it sit better me, ill have to post some new pics

Im currently in the process of building a rear bumper now too.



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Part of the reason ive been awau for so long is due to working on my partners 4.0 wj. Front coil perches were GONE but at least that's the only rust on the truck. It sits with stock size 235/70/16 and 2.5 inches of lift. I did it all with rustys off road stuff, springs, shocks, adjustable track bar, coil perches.

Heres alsp the brackets i cut out for the bumper and the bumper itself.

I also got new front wheel bearings amd brakes all the way around, my front rotors were SO WARPED. talk about a shimmy in the steering wheel ugh... On top of that when i took apart the rear drums there was missing pieces and ive basicqlly been running with no rear brakes, at least on the left. What a difference in nose dive during braking now my goodness, it stays mostly level, and getting the top end drilled and slotted rotors from advance was a good choice for me, theyve been holding up great and wont warp on me for much much longer58283d4dc312472311e85329f0145b87.jpge572c703bae84bfdd413c3e9110e9dc7.jpg1a5da9d709ec336a6605bbb6200e890e.jpg3c20a5f2f1413e530f0b09770fd3cd5f.jpg

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