Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Headers - time to bite the bullet


Zed
 Share

Recommended Posts

95 M/T Pathy

 

Been riding the Pathy pretty hard the past 6 months and the exhaust manifold leaks are getting worse. Truck sounds like hell. Looks like it’s time to think about some headers.

 

I’ve been doing some research - on this board and elsewhere - and it seems like the Thorleys (short tubes) might be the way to go. Sounds like most people who have installed them have positive comments. Unfortunately, the price I’ve seen (Rugged Rocks) is now $600! That’s $100 more than the last time I checked.

 

So, my questions…I’m working away from my garage right now (I have most of my tools) and don’t have the luxury of my car jack and stands. Is this possible to do without lifting the truck? I do have a shop down the street that does welding - in case I run into any fitment problems with the exhaust.

 

Bolts or studs? I’m leaning toward studs. I’ve replaced this engine and had the bolts out - so not too worried about breaking any in the block. I’ve tried tightening the bolts - but doesn’t change a thing.

 

Any prep work or stuff I need to have available for this job? I’m especially curious about prepping the surface before installing new gaskets.

 

Feedback, as always, appreciated.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looked on the Doug Thorley web site - headers are not in stock. Wrote to Rugged Rocks - no reply.

Are these headers even available anymore? Most of the threads on Doug Thorley headers I've looked at are like 5 to 6 years old.

Anybody have any alternatives if these are unavailable? I saw some headers from OBX - but don't know anyone that has tried them.

What are my options here?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have pacesetter headers, they work great. They have an armor coated and a non coated set. I bought the standard ones, no problems.

 

https://pacesetterexhaust.com/products/90-95-nissan-hardbody-pathfindr-4wd-headers-5-spd

 

I have had good luck with them. It was a bit of work to get them in, I have the luxury of a lift, so I was able to move around as needed. I cannot remember what all I had to do, but to have it on jack stands or car ramps would be a good idea. It is a bit of work to get them into place over the manifold studs, but once you find the sweet spot it falls right in, bit of pushing and pulling to get them to mesh up at the y pipe to tail pipe. I think my hardest part was just getting the nuts on and tightening them without having much room.

 

Both of my pathfinders with and without headers have had quite the leak at the joint below the drivers feet. Make sure that is mating nice and square before you bolt it up, not using the bolts to pull them together as I had done. I always formed a leak on the top side of those flanges.

 

Make sure you go in after a couple hundread miles/ good ammount of heat cycles, and tighten up the hardware on the exhaust manifold. Mine took a set and worked themselves loose a bit.

 

The only other problem I have had is that the Y pipe sits a bit lower than stock, so I have dinged 2 of them on rocks which kinda moved things around a bit, no big deal though.

 

I have exhaust studs not bolts. Unsure on what differences it would make, might be easier.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's exactly all on point. I found getting everything put together, but loosely, and then tightening all the bolts helped. Otherwise I would not be able to slide the y pipe on the headers. Also ditch the @!*% u clamps they give you and use either an band clamp or weld the y pipe on. Mine always leaked.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's exactly all on point. I found getting everything put together, but loosely, and then tightening all the bolts helped. Otherwise I would not be able to slide the y pipe on the headers. Also ditch the @!*% u clamps they give you and use either an band clamp or weld the y pipe on. Mine always leaked.

Good point. I also left everything nice and wobbley till I got everything started then started tightening everything.

 

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No problems with the standard Pacesetters? $369 definitely sounds reasonable. I've read a dozen comments on how the paint burns off leaving them susceptible to rust out. I know they are cheaper, but I'd hate to do this job again in a few years. It's good to know both (standard and armor-coated) are in stock.

 

I did hear back from Rugged Rocks. $680 for the DT headers w/studs. As I thought, they are basically being made to order - so I'm looking at a minimum 3 week wait. I kind of want to do this job soon - not wait a month.

 

I guess I can get a hold of some jack stands - probably make my life easier.

 

Thanks for the input DJ and Adamzan.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I live in So-cal, no rust problems. the paint is definitely gone so I could see it being a problem in certain areas. I have had them a few years and they don't show anything but some surface rust. you can probably paint it with some Hi temp BBQ paint or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Pacesetters work fine, like it has been mentioned before, the paint burns off but that's because it's for shipping and not extreme temperature paint.

 

On the rear of the driver's side make sure to mow off about 3/16" off of the end of the header to clear the engine hoist clamp BEFORE you try to fit them on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Went with the pacesetters (armor-coat). Got a decent deal at Jegs for $400 shipped to my door. They look fairly well-made, but I'm no expert.

 

Having a hell of a time getting the damn heat shield off on the driver side. Stripped the bolt head on the rear bolt (near firewall).

 

Talked to some guys in town with a lift. Might make my life easier. These guys could also do the work, but it won't be cheap. Weighing my options. If I had this at my house, it would be a lot easier.

 

Gonna give all the nuts a good soak with PB overnight and try and start this weekend.

 

engine hoist clamp.....

Adamzan: You can just unbolt that bracket on the engine. That's what I did. GOOD TO KNOW!!

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I'm having a shop install the headers - it's just too much for me to do w/o my tools and a lift.

 

Ran into some issues. Need to replace the intermediate pie and mid-pipe. I've got the 2 CAT system. What options do I have to join the Pacesetter headers to a new intermediate pipe and 1 CAT ? I have no smog testing where I'm at. Something with a bung for an O2 sensor.

 

Looking for a simple solution to connect to the Y-pipe and the 2.5" muffler and tailpipe I have on there.

 

Suggestions?

 

Thanks

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi M58 -

 

Yeah, those are garbage, for sure. I'm thinking of an inexpensive solution, that keeps the noise down.

I'm thinking to connect a cat direct to Y-pipe, then get a shop to work the pipe back to the muffler.

My question is - what do I do with the O2 sensor?

Haven't seen a cat that has a bung for that.

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone out there have any suggestions on modding the exhaust downstream from the Y-pipe to the muffler (which is newer).

Intermediate pipes are discontinued. The only pipe I saw that might work was found on EBAY - for $100..but who knows when that might arrive - and if it actually fits.

 

I'm definitely going to scrap the existing pre-cat and cat, and install a newer cat converter. I just need to get a pipe that bends from the Y-pipe to put it in line with the new Cat - with a bung hole for the O2 sensor.

 

I guess most muffler shops can handle this job - but there isn't even a shop in this town that has a pipe bender!

 

Anyone on here from southern Arizona that can point me in the right direction?

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi M58 -

 

Yeah, those are garbage, for sure. I'm thinking of an inexpensive solution, that keeps the noise down.

I'm thinking to connect a cat direct to Y-pipe, then get a shop to work the pipe back to the muffler.

My question is - what do I do with the O2 sensor?

Haven't seen a cat that has a bung for that.

Any suggestions?

You can buy weld-in o2 bungs on ebay. Install the headers, cut the front flange off your old intermediate pipe (or cat) and just have the muffler shop make a new catless pipe using the old flange. They can install the o2 bung in the same exact spot.

 

I have done this countless times. Fixing to do it to mine here shortly. Both of my cats are rattling like bastards, its about to drive me batty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Appreciate the input M58..

 

But that flange (on intermediate pipe) is toast. Barely any meat on there.

 

Think a decent muffler shop might be able to build something for me from the Y-pipe?

 

Have to drive a long distance to get to one - car will probably be screaming like a truck the whole way....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just buy a new mid pipe and a walker direct fit cat. They arent expensive and then it all bolts together. Thats what I did on my 1994. Dont go no cats. Thats just irresponsible. And it makes no power difference that I can tell you for sure. Just because theres no smog testing doesnt mean its legal to remove emissions equipment.

 

Some people on here are paranoid and seem to think its some government conspiracy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guys doing the work are just auto repair. There is no muffler shop in town.

 

Adamzan: There is not a lot of room where the Y-pipe meets the intermediate pipe - due to the crossmember. What mid-pipe works there? Where did you get yours at?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got off the phone and it seems these guys broke off two studs on the drivers side. Says there is no room to work them out.

I'm not sure if they even used any penetrating oil before going in there.

Now I'm wondering if it was a good idea taking it there....

Ah, the joys of auto repair.

 

Now that there in there, I'm kind of "damned if I do, damned if I don't" with these guys...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anytime you have to do work at the exhaust manifold level you run the risk of breaking studs. No amount of penetrating oil can prevent it either, in most cases. Really, the only correct way to to get them apart is via heating them with a torch, which isn't always an option either. Mine is leaking like a stuck pig from about 10 different locations between both exhaust manifolds. I have decided to leave it alone for now. I want to put headers on it, but I just can't muster the gumption to dive into that train wreck waiting to happen. I've recently had my y-pipe off, so not really anticipating a collector stud problem. What I'm worried about is the cylinder head studs. I have at least 3 either broken off or missing already. I'm hoping they just backed out and are missing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...