Mrelcocko Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Hey guys doing a timing belt service on my 98 Pathy. Wondering if anyone has some advice on changing the camshaft seals. Already took care of the crankshaft seal, but still need to take camshaft sprockets off and change seals. What's a good way to get the sprockets off to change the seals? Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Are you using a rattle gun? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 What I did was weld up a long F shape from a piece of thick rod I had laying around. The two short bits locked into the holes in the sprocket, and then I just held the far end with one hand and the breaker bar with the other. I used the same arrangement to re-torque the bolts. Worked great. I've also heard of using the old belt and some vise grips like a strap wrench. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saturn Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Northern Tool has a tool specifically for that https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200677477_200677477 Used it on my yota, totally worth it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 What I did was weld up a long F shape from a piece of thick rod I had laying around. The two short bits locked into the holes in the sprocket, and then I just held the far end with one hand and the breaker bar with the other. I used the same arrangement to re-torque the bolts. Worked great. I've also heard of using the old belt and some vise grips like a strap wrench. Is a right turn bolt like the crank? Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Northern Tool has a tool specifically for that https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200677477_200677477 Used it on my yota, totally worth it.Thanks for the help Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Are you using a rattle gun? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk What's a rattle gun? Never heard of that. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Rattle gun = impact wrench. And yes, they should be standard right-hand threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Rattle gun = impact wrench. And yes, they should be standard right-hand threads. Gotcha thanks. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I marked mine with an oil paint marker and zapped it off with the impact and I held it in place with the old belt and vice grips. Worked pretty good! The bolts on my cam sprockets took more torque than I could hold with the belt/visegrip combo and a breaker bar. The impact punched it off with ease though.. What I’m trying to say is, I was more worried about damaging valves with the breaker bar than the impact. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 I marked mine with an oil paint marker and zapped it off with the impact and I held it in place with the old belt and vice grips. Worked pretty good! The bolts on my cam sprockets took more torque than I could hold with the belt/visegrip combo and a breaker bar. The impact punched it off with ease though.. What I’m trying to say is, I was more worried about damaging valves with the breaker bar than the impact. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk How do you use the old belt and vicegrips? Once I do get the sprockets off how do I get the cam seals out. The FSM shows removing the cam?? I don't want to do that. I've heard of taking a flat head screw driver but afraid I will mess something up. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) How do you use the old belt and vicegrips? Once I do get the sprockets off how do I get the cam seals out. The FSM shows removing the cam?? I don't want to do that. I've heard of taking a flat head screw driver but afraid I will mess something up. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk You wrap the belt all the way around the sprocket and where the belt meets itself you pinch it as tight as you can with some visegrips. Here’s a pic from when I did mine: For removing the seals I got a couple hook end oring picks to puncture the soft inner sealing area and pulled against the hard outer part. I also used a 50/50 ATF/Kerosine spray on everything as a penetrant. I might even suggest spraying your penetrant in there and knocking the seal further in there to get it loosened up! There is a good bit of outer seating for the seal.. I actually scarred the outer seat on the driver cam so I set the seal half an inch further in to prevent a leak in that area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 28, 2018 by onespiritbrain 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 No, the cams don't have to come out. I used a flathead screwdriver with the end bent like a paint can opener basically the same way OSB used his pick, except the screwdriver was long enough that I slid a big socket onto it and used it kinda like a slide hammer to pull the seal more easily. Worked great, but yeah, be careful of the sealing surface on the cam. I spent a little time polishing the end of my redneck seal puller before using it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 You guys are so helpful. Thanks a bunch. #r50 Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 You wrap the belt all the way around the sprocket and where the belt meets itself you pinch it as tight as you can with some visegrips. Here’s a pic from when I did mine: For removing the seals I got a couple hook end oring picks to puncture the soft inner sealing area and pulled against the hard outer part. I also used a 50/50 ATF/Kerosine spray on everything as a penetrant. I might even suggest spraying your penetrant in there and knocking the seal further in there to get it loosened up! There is a good bit of outer seating for the seal.. I actually scarred the outer seat on the driver cam so I set the seal half an inch further in to prevent a leak in that area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Great response. Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 (edited) Used the belt trick and it worked like a charm. Thanks! Sent from my SM-S337TL using Tapatalk Edited March 12, 2018 by Mrelcocko 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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