Jump to content

98 se 4x4 auto"Morning Sickness"?


sailor95
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all, this is my first post in the forums and would like to start with a problem. My 98 se is just weird. Somedays it drives normal without fault, but others its quirky. On the quirky days, at startup you cant go straight to reverse because it will shut off, I first have to switch it to neutral then I can go to reverse. I do have the dreaded knock sensor code and also an evap canister valve stuck open code. Also after starting with the go to neutral first method, it drives weird for a bit. Rough idle surging then all of a sudden dieing at stop lights, But I just shift back to park and re crank and it runs fine. I also notice in the first 45 seconds of driving a weird jolt and noise coming from the front. but after it does that once it doesn't do it again for rest of drive. Also noticed it was down on coolant so I replaced that and it took about a quart of oil yesterday also. Sorry a lot of problems for my first post but my mechanic gives up because I have left it with him for a full week and he hasn't had nay problems. Any suggestions as to where to start. My pathy has 183xxx and I have recently had distributor replaced and did the radiator this summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

evap stuck open will make it run funny on startup or idle wrong or not start at all. also if the temp sensor is stuck in one spot how it drives in the morning will depend on weather because the ecu uses that to judge how much fuel to dump in on start up. hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Intermittent problems are always a pain to track down! I'd start by checking and cleaning electrical connections in the engine bay. My '93 started stalling at lights a couple weeks ago and really driving me nuts and finally I popped the hood, checked the MAF plug (looked fine), checked the TPS with a meter (tested fine), checked the plug for one of the idle controls and scraped a little corrosion off the pins, and when I started it again, it was back to its usual self. The problem had been intermittent for quite a while before it got bad enough for me to track down. I want to say it was the idle air control but because I didn't mess with each thing separately, I can't say it wasn't a loose connection elsewhere that I re-seated as I checked stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would the idle air control and the evap system also cause the car to shut off when put in gear, happened this morning again on my gf trying to go to work but it wouldn't even work when going from neutral to reverse, which I described as my cure for it earlier when it dies going into reverse on startup, it was 30 degrees though. Just at wits end with this thing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would the idle air control and the evap system also cause the car to shut off when put in gear, happened this morning again on my gf trying to go to work but it wouldn't even work when going from neutral to reverse, which I described as my cure for it earlier when it dies going into reverse on startup, it was 30 degrees though. Just at wits end with this thing

Yes. Anything that deals with the vacuum lines could. I'd check for cracked lines and hoses.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this a vehicle that you would recommend a tranny fluid flush/change. If so, is it better to do myself or go somewhere with a machine that runs it like dialysis. In which area should I start my hunt for cracked lines/hoses. Only had this thing for a year and its my gfs DD not mine so im a bit new on where to start with problems. Just tired of paying the mechanic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the die when u put it in gear. does it die because of bad idle or does it seem like it is killing power to the Ignition? If i am not mistaken you mentioned die from park to gear, but not from neutral to gear. in that case it is probably a "switch" or sensor that sees it come out of park. Neutral safety switch maybe? not sure on an auto, i have crawled all over my manual xmission one, but just not sure about the auto. sorry. and keep in mind everything i am suggesting is just that, a suggestion. so if it idles rough and hard on startup, or after warm up that is all clues to what can be wrong. if it runs fine in the morning but idles crappy and dies at lights after its warmed up or seems to have a really rough idle after warming up, but smooths out with higher rpm that is classic symptom of a vacuum leak. so every seemingly minor detail could be important. either way, there is a way to check everything on that vehicle. so don't start throwing parts at it. it can get expensive fast. be sure to verify whether it is bad or good first. Plenty of utube material that is good about testing stuff out there. even if it doesn't specifically say it is for your vehicle it still applies in general to a lot of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes its more of a quick bog down and die, doesn't seem instant and electrical. The problems are in the morning on startup, then after a long day of driving being a nanny and shutting it of when she gets home then when she goes back out to go somewhere after that its had problems before too. This morning it died from neutral to gear too. So im guessing its vacuum leak somewere, but what explains the oil burning?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your torque converter isn't unlocking sometimes, or locking when it shouldn't, it can cause die at stop lights/idle.

 

Check to see if you have any codes stored.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...