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Some Quick Help Needed


drewp29
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Ah, if you are on PC then in the left hand column there is a link to a page called 'Files'. If you are on mobile then at the top of the page underneath the cover photo scroll all the way to the right in the list until you get to the link to the 'Files' page.

 

There are several documents there, and the Lift Info.docx file is the one you want.

 

Edit: Hawaiirish - I see you have done the change to the 4.636 gearing. What are your impressions of the change? That is one of the things I had planned at some point, and now might be the time I actually get to it since I have a renewed passion for my Pathy!

 

Not that I didn't thoroughly enjoy driving it still, but after doing a bunch of mods you get to a point where you just want to drive it for awhile. Now that I am into it more, the list of items to do is becoming more prevalent in my mind.

Edited by drewp29
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It's been a long time since I really dug into an engine, or a conversion, for that matter. It involved a 91 240SX coupe and an RB20DET. There was also a 96 240SX that went from AT to MT along the way. The 98 Frontier might become KA24DET this year...

 

As for gearing, I'm an advocate of it. In fact, when I swapped in the gears, that was perhaps the most notable difference on the first test drive. It was just more responsive. The VQ can surely support larger tires without a gear change, but anything that you can recoup after increasing tire size is worth it, particularly if you plan to wheel it. Improves crawl ratio, easier on drivetrain, more efficient, recovers torque, among other things. I mean, I probably wouldn't have gone out of my way to change gears if I wasn't installing lockers, but used differentials are relatively inexpensive (I paid $300 for front and rear diffs).

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As for gearing ... *SNIP* ... Improves crawl ratio, easier on drivetrain, more efficient, recovers torque, among other things.

 

Do you know what your cruising RPMs are at 75mph with the 4.636 gearing?

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I know it will be a little different with the auto transmission, but do you have an idea how much your RPMs increased at 75mph? Right now, with the 4.363 gears I cruise at around 3500 RPM in 5th gear. Some quick math says I'll be at around 3700 with a gear change.

 

Most of my daily driving consists of stop and go traffic so it may be a trade off in that I won't have to push it as much in the lower gears to accelerate, and thus get better gas mileage under normal conditions, while sacrificing some mpg on longer road trips. Which is overall fine with me.

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That RPM sounds about right. But, the AT RPM range has always been a bit high in my opinion...really wish we had at least one more gear. Not sure it has much of an impact on mileage though...while the gearing makes it easier to turn the tires, it also requires more revs to do so. My mileage has never been that great (14-15), even on freeway.

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With the front hubs unlocked, I used to get between 20-22 on the freeway. Around town I get probably 13-17 depending on the day and how much stop and go there is. I'd like to have 6 gears to to row through, I think around 2700-3000 rpm at 75 might actually yield around 23-24 consistently on long trips. I know my mpg at 65 is significantly better than at 75 in 5th gear.

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I notice my MPG when I go on short offroading trips (two hours total on the highway at 75-80mph and 7-9 hours in the woods) actually yields about average fuel economy, so I figure I must be doing really well on the highway portions. I feel like maybe our engines are most efficient in the upper 2000's?

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With the front hubs unlocked, I used to get between 20-22 on the freeway. Around town I get probably 13-17 depending on the day and how much stop and go there is. I'd like to have 6 gears to to row through, I think around 2700-3000 rpm at 75 might actually yield around 23-24 consistently on long trips. I know my mpg at 65 is significantly better than at 75 in 5th gear.

 

I'm jealous of you mileage man, that's not even close to my fuel economy and I cruise around that range in 5th at 75 due to my tires. I have the 4.36 gears, but no manual hubs. Best tank I've ever gotten was 18, which was entirely on the highway going through Nevada on my way from California to Montana. I get anywhere from 14-16 usually.

Edited by micahfelker
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The best mileage I have seen was driving to Winter Park and back to go downhill mountain biking. Filled the tank before leaving town, got back just as the gas light came on and filled it at the same station. I averaged 23mpg. My best friend has a 2010 (I think) 4Runner and he couldn't believe it. He said the best he has gotten on the same trip was right around 19 mpg. It probably helped that the drive home is mostly downhill, but evens out on the drive up I suppose. That's with Shell Premium 91 octane though, which I find gets the best mileage for sure even if it is 25 cents more per gallon than the other stations.

 

So, I am getting closer to the swap, my mechanic should be getting both pallets today. I have some items I am still waiting for in the mail, so it will be a couple days.

 

I have another thought though. My truck has had a P0430 and P0420 code thrown since I bought it 6 years ago. I know Nissan has a Service Bulletin out to change the ECU firmware and adjust the O2 sensor range values, but the codes never had any effect on the driveability of the truck, and as apparent with the gas mileage, the O2 sensors were likely just fine. I had my girlfriend's brother hook it up to a super expensive code reader when I first got it and we watched the values for awhile while idling and under load. The sensors were responding correctly so I did not care to have to deal with the Stealership to try to convince them that the programming is free according to the NSB.

 

Since my truck burned quite a lot of oil over it's lifetime, I am considering replacing the primary catalytic converters just to do it while it is easy to get to the bottom bolts. I have read a few forum threads on replacing them myself, and it seems like as long as you don't have any super stubborn bolts that it is definitely doable in my home garage. But, with the engine out, and the exhaust manifolds already disconnected, it may be best to just have them throw a couple new ones on.

 

I'd rather not get bent over by Nissan on cost since they run $600+ each, and was wondering if any of you have replaced yours with aftermarket converters? What brand, and how long have they been on without problems?

 

I think Walker has a decent product, and possibly Eastern? I looked at the Magnaflows as well, but don't necessarily want to pay a premium for a name if I can get around it. Anyone ever dealt with Pacesetter? Decent price and seem to look like quality work.

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My truck has had a P0430 and P0420 code thrown since I bought it 6 years ago. I know Nissan has a Service Bulletin out to change the ECU firmware and adjust the O2 sensor range values, but the codes never had any effect on the driveability of the truck, and as apparent with the gas mileage, the O2 sensors were likely just fine. I had my girlfriend's brother hook it up to a super expensive code reader when I first got it and we watched the values for awhile while idling and under load. The sensors were responding correctly so I did not care to have to deal with the Stealership to try to convince them that the programming is free according to the NSB.

An old friend of mine who worked at Nissans Test Facility in AZ told me the NSB turned the O2 sensors just a little bit later after ignition & that this allowed any residual moisture to be eliminated before they turned on & ultimately prevented their premature failure.

 

My local dealership wanted an hour labor to do the ECU flash. Given how easy they are to replace, that their failure doesnt disable the truck & Ive been able to buy close out aftermarket sensors for $15 each, Ive put it off. My failure history:

 

60K/8yrs: Bank 2/Sensor 2 Replaced

71K/10yrs: Bank 1/Sensor 2 (popped code, I cleared it & it didnt return until

98K/13yrs: Bank 1/Sensor 2 Replaced

105K/15yrs: Bank 2/Sensor 1 Replaced

 

Now that Im out of those inexpensive sensors & Ive rebuilt the engine with a commitment to another decade & 100K, perhaps I should hit up the new Nissan dealership that opened next to me & see if theyll do it. Do you have a link to that NSB?

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Now that I'm looking for it again, the only one I can find is for model year 2001. I could swear I remember back when i bought my '02 that the Service Bulletin mentioned '01-'02 Pathfinders with a recurring P0430 or P0420 code. If it didn't, oh well, it never had any effect on the vehicle so I didn't worry about it.

 

So now that I am REALLY thinking about it, after having looked at the Service Bulletin, I am most likely going to replace the cats.I found a place on eBay that seems legit that has good prices on the Magnaflow, but I am checking with them to make sure they are an authorized dealer.

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So I made some good deal purchases on eBay and PlanetMagnaflow!

 

I picked up all (4) O2 sensors, the upstream are NTK and the downstream are Denso, for $130 shipped. At about 33 bucks each it was a deal I couldn't pass up. They should be here Friday.

 

I also picked up both primary catalytic converters from Planet Magnaflow. I went with the more expensive OEM series since I want them to last as long as possible. They have a popup on their site that nets you a 20% discount if you spend over $250. Input your e-mail and they send the code to you. So both cats cost a total of $537, which is a pretty good discount of about $138.

 

The company on eBay neglected to get in touch with me, so they lost out. My thoughts are they aren't an authorized dealer, but as a shop they can order directly from Magnaflow so they sell them as well. I'm not going to take the chance at ordering a part that could fail within the warranty period and have no recourse for getting a new one except purchasing a new cat. Not worth saving maybe 50 dollars.

 

Looking forward to having the Pathy back in my possession soon!

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I picked up all (4) O2 sensors, the upstream are NTK and the downstream are Denso, for $130 shipped. At about 33 bucks each it was a deal I couldn't pass up.

Are there more of those? I can always stock up on those O2 sensors. When they were fixing my truck they noted a transient code for one-probably the 4th starting to give up the ghost.

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They varied between 24 and 40 apiece. All 4 were about $130 total. So depending on which sensor you need it could be the cheaper option. I basically went to Rock Auto and looked up the part numbers for the specific sensors, then chose the ones on eBay that were the cheapest NIB options. I know there are 2 different sellers that have the same price within 1 cent of each other. The other seller should still have the one I didn't buy.

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After I get the truck back from the mechanic I plan on changing out the U-joints on both front and rear shafts. If I am reading the 2002 manual correctly, as well as this thread:

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25609-spicer-u-joints-vs-oem-nissan/page-2

 

it looks like with the manual transmission I have outer snap rings on the rear driveshaft and inner snap rings on the front driveshaft. When looking up parts on Rock Auto they are saying the rear in Heavy Duty series should be the Spicer part number 5-1310-1X. This u-joint has outer snap rings, which is consistent with the manual, however, Amazon says this joint is for the front driveshaft? Amazon may be incorrect, but looking it up on the Spicer site:

 

http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dek350.aspx

 

says the 'Spicer Life' version is 5-1310X and it is for the front driveshaft, so maybe Rock Auto is incorrect? However, if you look up the 5-1310X (should be the same dims as the 5-1310-1X) joint on Amazon, it says that one is for the rear shaft?

 

The rear on the Spicer site says they are 5-1505X. I am having difficulties determining what series the 5-1505X joints are actually from, as I would like to find a Heavy Duty version, and Rock Auto lists this part number as a Standard Replacement.

 

I've looked on several other sites and they are all over the place on what does or does not fit, so I am thoroughly confused.

 

Can anyone give me dimensions for the front and rear joints? If I had my vehicle I take my calipers and measure those biznatches. It shouldn't be this difficult, right?!!

 

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I keep spares, so I can get you some dimensions later. I want to say I tried one of those rear p/ns and it wasnt a proper fit. Was off maybe 1-2mm in a dimension and made it difficult to get the snap rings on.

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Ok, so I can't attest to any of the Spicer p/ns. BTW, have you seen this post before? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25609-spicer-u-joints-vs-oem-nissan/. Per Fleurys' note, the FSM does indicate the clip type. Just checked the 2002 FSM, and 4WD MTs are outer for rear driveshaft, everything else inners.

 

The PDQ 1-0029 joints I referenced in that post, and the GMB 215-0029 I carry as spares won't help you. But for reference for anyone else, the GMBs are listed as the Brute Force series, made in Japan, use inner clips, and have a long zerk fitting on the cross between the caps. Neapco specs the 1-0029 at 1.103" cap diameter and 2.205" lock-up (max gap on the yoke for the clips).

 

For the fronts, Neapco 1-0449 are made in US, use inner clips, and have a short zerk on a cap end. Neapco specs at 1.063" cap and 1.93" lock-up.

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After looking at various u-joints for awhile, here is what I have determined for my truck.

 

Remember, this is for a 4wd manual transmission 2002.

 

Here is what I gather based on a few different websites info:

 

Rear DS both joints: Outer Snap Rings - Cap Diameter (both): 1.063 (or 1.062) inches

 

Axis 1 and 2 (or sometimes referred to as Snap Ring Length): 3.22 inches (3.219" also)

 

Front DS both joints: Inner Snap Rings - Cap Diameter (both): 1.063 (or 1.062) inches

 

Axis 1 and 2 (or sometimes referred to as Snap Ring Length): 1.93 inches

 

If the above is correct, then the Spicer 5-1310-1X (greasable) or Spicer 5-1310X (non-greasable) will work for the rears even though a handful of websites do not list it as working. For the fronts, the Spicer version is pretty specific to Nissan, and would be part number 5-3218X. Too bad there is no Spicer Life part for the front, as the seals are considered to be the best on the SPL series.

 

I could also do Moog/Precision which would be part 280 (greasable super strength) or part 269 (non-greasable super strength) for the rear DS and part 446 for the front DS. The AC-Delco parts 45U0145 (non-greasable) and 45U0111 (greasable) look to be identical to the Moog and are probably made by Precision so they are the same parts.

 

I'm pretty much set on the Spicer 5-1301-1X for the rears and 5-3218X for the fronts, but the Moog/Precision are intriguing because the rears use a flush mounted needle zerk fitting. Could also do the GMB 220-0046 for the front, but do not know much about GMB and their quality.

 

Oh, I did read the thread you linked as well during my 8 hour web search last night, lol. That was actually the link I posted, but apparently I linked page 2.

Edited by drewp29
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So apparently the salvage yard mangled the clutch when they removed the transmission from the engine, so I had to buy a clutch kit. Went with the good old Exedy OEM kit from Rock Auto. RA wanted $191, which is the cheapest I could find it and as a bonus, next day express shipping was only 24 bones! Can't really beat that!

 

It sucks that I had to replace the clutch, but at least I know this one is good for a few hundred thousand miles. Mine was pretty much toast, which I knew beforehand since it was on my list of things to do - it has been slipping slightly. Not bad enough to be needed immediately, but enough to be noticeable.

 

I am also going to replace the rear thermostat and a few other things that are a pain to replace later.

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https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ADB7RpRZgS9bPJyJukXft9MzVPU6Pr3s

 

So we have a minor problem. The transmission has a crack in one of the mounting points. I contacted the salvage yard and they assured me that they would cover the cost to weld it, which is cool. Since it does not cause the transmission to leak, I think a good TIG weld should take care of it and get it back to being solid.

 

Other than having to swap all the piping from my old engine due to surface rust and whatnot, my mechanic said the bottom end looked really good when he changed the rear seal, so that's a good sign.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my Pathy back on Friday. The motor definitely feels a lot more responsive, and the transmission is nice and smooth! I am planning on doing the front drive shaft u-joints later today, and then probably the rear u-joints next weekend. Then on to the SFD and NRC9448 coils in the rear!

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Well that sucks...

 

My Pathfinder died on me 3 times this morning on the way to work. I got it here, and it will start, but won't idle. My thoughts are IACV, so I overnighted the OEM Hitachi valve from Amazon. I talked to my mechanic and he said they did have some issues with idle after replacing the engine, but they replaced the IACV with my old one and did the relearn procedure and it cleared them up.

 

I am almost certain it is the IACV, but what I am not certain about is whether the IACV going out subsequently fried the little MOSFET chip on the ECU. So I ordered the STA509a chip from Amazon as well. My circuit board soldering skills aren't the greatest, but I do have a nice temp controlled iron, and given the size of the MOSFET chip I don't think it will be too difficult to take care of.

 

It was running so well too...

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My mechanic replaced my IACV and it idles like a champ again. So luckily it did not take the ECU out on my drive to work yesterday! Time to do the u-joints!

 

I also ordered the replacement front differential carrier mounts. I have had a bit of vibration in 4wd for a long time, so replacing the u-joints and carrier mounts will hopefully solve the issue. It is quite a bit better with the new transfer case, but still gives some shudder if I accelerate just a little too quickly in 4wd. So we'll see which one solves it. I'll keep this updated with my results.

 

Thanks for reading!

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