TowndawgR50 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 I'm sure you have the correct bushing but the sleeve ID should be 14.3mm (clearance hole for the OEM 14mm bolt) with an overall length of 60mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 I'm sure you have the correct bushing but the sleeve ID should be 14.3mm (clearance hole for the OEM 14mm bolt) with an overall length of 60mm. Oh man... really hoping my caliper is inaccurate... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Just turns out I can’t read. Whew. 60mm total length, and yeah the ID for the inner sleeve is roughly 14.5mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Perfect. Im going to finish the mould as planned then. Let us know how the removal and install goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 And no worries on the caliper. I use dial or digital calipers for that exact reason. So hard to read the scribed lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Think its safe to drop the diff and disconnect the driveshaft, and remove the CV axles, and still drive it? Can’t be any different than 2WD. Thinking about getting it out from under there, but if I dont finish in time, I’ll still need to drive it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Not really. Without a CV the hub is open. In a pinch you can, but shove a rag and latex glove over it. I had to come down from the Sierra Buttes after grenading a CV that way but its definitely not recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 Not really. Without a CV the hub is open. In a pinch you can, but shove a rag and latex glove over it. I had to come down from the Sierra Buttes after grenading a CV that way but its definitely not recommended. Totally forgot about the back of the hub. Probably best not to then. I’ll be getting the bushing removal kit tomorrow and cranking this out. I’ll let you guys know if it goes well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Got it all undone, these are in hilariously bad shape. I can move them easily with my hands, and they’re torn and hollow on some. My press tool didn’t work unfortunately, so I’m going to have to try and press them at a shop tomorrow. Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts to the mounts? I couldn’t find them in the FSM for some reason. I want to be careful not to under/over torque them, since I already snapped a bolt in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 I couldn't find any info in the FSM either. Standard spec for a 14mm bolt, 8.8 grade, with dry threads is around 100ft/lbs. 10.9 grade is around 148 dry. I put antisieze on everything under my truck because its always wet or salted here so its around 75ft-100ft/lbs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 The bolt grade should be stamped on the hex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 I couldn't find any info in the FSM either. Standard spec for a 14mm bolt, 8.8 grade, with dry threads is around 100ft/lbs. 10.9 grade is around 148 dry. I put antisieze on everything under my truck because its always wet or salted here so its around 75ft-100ft/lbs Awesome thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Nissan has a bolt torque chart in the GI chapter of the FSM, by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Nissan has a bolt torque chart in the GI chapter of the FSM, by the way. Forgot about that. No info on the diff mounts though. Not mentioned in the index or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Got the new bushings in. Now to see if I can get this bolt out... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 Grind two small flats opposite each other and grab it with a pair of vice grips. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) Alright guys, results are in. Everything’s back together and torqued, everything’s solid and good to go. Took it for a test drive, all was well. Moment of truth, I put it in 4WD... While the issue is not nearly as bad as it was, it’s still there. I’m aware that 4WD isn’t healthy on the drivetrain on paved dry roads, but it was my best way to test. Subtle vibrations at 25-35mph, vibrations get a tad worse at 40mph, and kind of come off and on anywhere above that. Again, nothing nearly as severe as before, but still there. Unfortunately, I’m still stuck in 4WD as soon as I pull the shifter into gear. The only way to get out is to roll back a couple inches in reverse. If this is as good as it’ll get, I can live with it, those bushings DID need replaced... but I’m a bit sad that the issue is still there because I feel it’ll cause those bushings to wear faster. Not sure what to do. Edited March 11, 2018 by QuasarDecimari Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Since the bushings we're allowing so much movement, it may have worn out your slip joint on the front driveshaft. Check it for excessive play, mainly radially. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Since the bushings we're allowing so much movement, it may have worn out your slip joint on the front driveshaft. Check it for excessive play, mainly radially. Any idea what would define excessive? I’ll check the FSM for possible specs, since I’ve gotten so good at taking the darn thing off at this point. The slip joint does slide easily, I gave it some fresh grease when I rebuilt it. By radially, do you mean as in it pivots similar to a ball joint in the joint? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Yes, if it's in the vehicle push up and down on the slip joint. I don't know what to tell you about excessive. I would just feel it and decide if it feels "right" or not. I have seen them do funny things when they have too much play, clunking noises, vibration etc. Usually they are dry because they never get greased so add grease and it takes out the play and everything is good. Yours, with the major movement of the front diff may have worn or damaged the slip joint. Might be worth it to feel the amount of play on a few working front driveshafts to have a comparison. Also, because of the diff movement, might consider changing u joints on the front shaft. It is cheap and easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 U Joints are brand new, and I’ve had the balance checked, so the driveshaft is balanced, but it definitely makes sense that the slip joint could be worn. I’ll check it tomorrow morning for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 No play in the slip joint thankfully, only maybe a few hundredths of a mm for spline play, which is totally normal as far as I can tell. I pulled some driveshafts off the shelves at work to compare to. I did go ahead and grab my grease gun and pump it full of grease, as that’s potentially never been done since the car left the factory in 01. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 I wonder if you have a bent or misaligned shaft. Do you have access to a magnetic base dial indicator? You can toss it under the truck with the needle on the tube section of the drive shaft near the diff and again near the t-case, marking your starting point with a paint pen or sharpie rotate the shaft 360 degrees and see how much the dial moves. Shouldn't be much, if its significant it could be another element to your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I wonder if you have a bent or misaligned shaft. Do you have access to a magnetic base dial indicator? I just skimmed that in the FSM this morning, and I was curious about doing that. Not sure where to get ahold of one, but I work directly across the street from a Nissan dealer. I’m tempted at this point to see if they want a spin at it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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