TowndawgR50 Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 So mine were shot. Drivers side was qprse off and almost seperated from the mount. Bushing size is odd ball. I plan on getting a set of the same poly universal units i used on my rear control arms and welding them in https://imgur.com/4mIYFRR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 So mine were shot. Drivers side was qprse off and almost seperated from the mount. Bushing size is odd ball. I plan on getting a set of the same poly universal units i used on my rear control arms and welding them in https://imgur.com/4mIYFRR Ah gotcha. Well, I guess I might order the ones off Amazon and try and get that done before the spring snows hit Colorado. Thanks for checking anyways! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Ah gotcha. Well, I guess I might order the ones off Amazon and try and get that done before the spring snows hit Colorado. Thanks for checking anyways! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Before? Where have you been for the past month? Lol... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 Before? Where have you been for the past month? Lol... Haha driving around in 2WD and drifting all over the place. Fun to do when expected, but if I’m trying to turn left on a busy road and I’m sitting on a patch of ice, it doesn’t go anywhere. I miss functioning 4WD Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Did you ever source poly bushings for the diff mounting brackets? They are an oddball size, it seems. I had to replace the mounts on my rig when I installed the SFD, but I bought a set that was pulled from a wrecked R50. I still have the original brackets (sans bushings) for the eventuality that I install poly bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Did you ever source poly bushings for the diff mounting brackets? They are an oddball size, it seems. I had to replace the mounts on my rig when I installed the SFD, but I bought a set that was pulled from a wrecked R50. I still have the original brackets (sans bushings) for the eventuality that I install poly bushings. I never found anything. Seems like they’re not an easy size to find. Maybe something you could fab up and weld, but for sale, I can’t find anything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 So a slight development- Hawairish and I have been digging into alternative options and after pressing out my diff bushings today the true size is around 48mm ish. Thats off my used bushing (not concentric) while the housing comes in around 47.2mm, allowing for preload. We think that the spec is for 50mm, which is used on the rear trailing arms ( upper and lower) and is relatively close using the true size I measured today( about 0.080-0.090" ) but cant confirm that as all bushing info references back to compatibility with Nissan part# 54730-0W002 without specifying a size. The listing for the correct rubber bushing specs 1.9" (48.26mm). So, Hawairish found some 50mm Nolathane units that seem to be close enough. The overall length should be a little bigger but can easily be trimmed with a hack saw. It just needs the shoulder of the bushing to sit against the housing. If the true OD is too big, I can turn them down to size with a lathe but that makes this kit unusable for most people and we would be back at square one. The sleeve is spot on, 14.3 ID @ 60mm long. Exactly what the diff bushings run. We'll see how it all goes when the Nolathane units I ordered arrive. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) So a slight development- Hawairish and I have been digging into alternative options and after pressing out my diff bushings today the true size is around 48mm ish. Thats off my used bushing (not concentric) while the housing comes in around 47.2mm, allowing for preload. We think that the spec is for 50mm, which is used on the rear trailing arms ( upper and lower) and is relatively close using the true size I measured today( about 0.080-0.090" ) but cant confirm that as all bushing info references back to compatibility with Nissan part# 54730-0W002 without specifying a size. The listing for the correct rubber bushing specs 1.9" (48.26mm). So, Hawairish found some 50mm Nolathane units that seem to be close enough. The overall length should be a little bigger but can easily be trimmed with a hack saw. It just needs the shoulder of the bushing to sit against the housing. If the true OD is too big, I can turn them down to size with a lathe but that makes this kit unusable for most people and we would be back at square one. The sleeve is spot on, 14.3 ID @ 60mm long. Exactly what the diff bushings run. We'll see how it all goes when the Nolathane units I ordered arrive. This sounds awesome. I kind of wish I held out a bit longer before putting in an order for the replacement bushings, but I'm excited to see the outcome regardless. What did you use to press the bushings out? Were they difficult? I won't have a press available when I do mine, so I'm just curious what you used. I have a control arm bushing installation/removal kit that should do the trick fine, but if you popped yours out easily, that'd be good to know. Edited February 28, 2018 by QuasarDecimari Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) How are you guys going about getting that front diff on the ground? I used a floor jack and straps to secure the diff to the jack but it was a nightmare. Is there a better way?? Edit: google search returns tips on using a transmission jack with tilting axes..! Still though, is that how you guys do it? Or do you all make a standard floor jack work well somehow? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 28, 2018 by onespiritbrain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I used a hydraulic press but it was still pretty difficult, like the rest of the OEM bushings. The geometry of the parts wont allow for an easy setup using a press. Had to make a small shim stack and base plate to bolt the diff mounts to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Diff wasnt that bad. Floor jack was all I used. Pull the cvs, driveshaft and breather on top. plavce the the diff on the jack at the pumpkin, support passenger side long axle tube, drop it straight down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Hopefully the bushings work. They are actually the same poly bushings for the trailing arms. Dimensions are very similar, and the bushings get us very close but there were some dimensions we debated about without having precise specs and preload values from the bushing manufacturer(s). I'm optimistic it'll work, or that we can get it to work with minimal modification. I just use a floor jack under the diff, too, with a little help to support the passenger tube to keep it level. When installing, I'll put a jack stand under the passenger tube and fine tune the diff height until I can get a bolt through the bracket and into the diff. I don't remove the brackets from the truck when dropping the diff, so if you're planning to swap the bushings, just get the diff out first then the brackets. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) I busted one of the 8 bolts that holds the diff to the carriers, so it’ll be nice to do this anyways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited February 28, 2018 by QuasarDecimari Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 They are actually the same poly bushings for the trailing arms. Clarifying this. The poly bushings TownDawg is trying in the diff brackets are the Nolathane/Whiteline poly bushings intended for the upper and lower trailing arms. The OE diff bushings and the OE trailing arm bushings are not the same, but have very similar dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I busted one of the 8 bolts that holds the diff to the carriers, so itll be nice to do this anyways. Damm, enough left to extract the rest or will you have to.drill it out? I make it a point to put antiseize on every bolt I pull from under the truck. Dunno how many times ive had the front end apart but time spent has paid for itself many times over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Damm, enough left to extract the rest or will you have to.drill it out? I make it a point to put antiseize on every bolt I pull from under the truck. Dunno how many times ive had the front end apart but time spent has paid for itself many times over It was a dumb mistake. When doing the SFD, a friend helped lift the diff up enough to get a jack under it, then we lifted it up until we could get the bolts to hold it on. The first bolt of course went in weird at an angle, and the others went in right. Went to use the impact and a torque stick (75 ft/lb) to restrict it, but ended up cross threading the hell out of it. We couldn’t get it to back out, and as we were trying, the head snapped off the bolt. I’m going to have to drill it out and make new threads for a slightly larger bolt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) The best EZ outs I have found are the Black and Decker. They have a tight thread profile with decent tooth. If you can get a small drill bit about 1/4" into the bolt the Black and Decker set will grab and zip it out. I wouldn't even bother with the EZ Out brand or the Kobalt brand. They have no real thread to bite in to the metal. Edit: This set https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-16270-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B000KKR7JM Edited March 1, 2018 by drewp29 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 The best EZ outs I have found are the Black and Decker. They have a tight thread profile with decent tooth. If you can get a small drill bit about 1/4" into the bolt the Black and Decker set will grab and zip it out. I wouldn't even bother with the EZ Out brand or the Kobalt brand. They have no real thread to bite in to the metal. Edit: This set https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-16270-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B000KKR7JM That's good information to have, thanks. I've struggled with EZ Out brand before and just dealt with it, grateful that a solution existed at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Just remember they are all brittle, no matter which set you buy, so the likelihood of snapping the end off is very real. Kind of like a set of thread taps, lord knows how many of those I've broken because I was at a slight angle. The sets that have the drill end on one side and reverse thread on the other can be useful, but the diameter of the end on the threaded side always seemed a little large, though I think they do that to avoid the inevitable snapping off of the point. They just always seemed to need a much deeper hole to get it to grab though, and drilling hardened bolts is difficult as it is. Is it nice though that there are those items when needed. It would be preferable to TIG weld a nut onto the broken end, but not always feasible and definitely not for those without the equipment or the skill set. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Mig or stick work well too. A left twist drill bit is handy. Sometimes just using that will twist the bolt out, and if it doesn't, you still have a hole. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 I’m pretty sure it’s cross-threaded to hell and won’t back out. I attempted that sort of thing with an impact drill, with a removal screw and it wasn’t going to budge. Drilling a fresh hole is going to be my best bet sadly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 What side of the diff did the bolt snap on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuasarDecimari Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 What side of the diff did the bolt snap on? Driver’s side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 oh, nice. Forget drilling. Drop the diff with the brackets attached. then remove the brackets and grab the remaining threads and remove the broken stud. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewp29 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Some vice grips and a BFH might get 'er unstuck. Spray a little PB Blaster on it to try and penetrate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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