colinnwn Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 (edited) Hi, Since I bought my Pathfinder at 135k miles, the clutch chatters on launch in 1st gear if you try to feather it much at all. If I launch very firmly, but not totally banging the clutch out, there is no chatter. It has never chattered in any other gear during changes. I've done a bit of towing up to about 2,600 lbs, and when towing it doesn't chatter, even at launch in 1st. I've probably towed a total of 2,000 miles. Truck currently at 245k miles. Today when I wasn't towing, but I was accelerating pretty firmly, on the change from 1st to 2nd, I could feel the clutch slip and chatter a little. This was the first time that's ever happened. Is this mean my clutch is probably dying? Or was it just a very infrequent non-event. If it is probably dying, does anyone have recommendations on replacement clutches for Pathfinders? I've driven manual cars 23 years, but I've never had to replace a clutch. I have also been told I have a small oil leak at the main seal. Perhaps it is contaminating the clutch? The mechanic encouraged me not to worry about it unless I decided to replace my clutch, and even then the crankshaft could have enough wear that a new main seal doesn't stop the leak. Thanks. Edited November 1, 2017 by colinnwn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 Not familiar with manual r50's but this sounds like the pressure plate might need to be resurfaced or replaced as well as a clutch job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Thanks. I guess I will keep using it until it is clearly dying and then plan to do clutch, resurface, and main seal. I found another thread where one person had and ARP stage 2 and another person was getting a Centerforce. But most seemed to think the OEM was best unless doing crazy off-roading. I'll check those costs against a NAPA house clutch. Sent from my FRD-L04 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjonez Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I think I've heard Exedy is the OE manufacturer for these clutches? They're kit on rock auto is pretty reasonably priced and probably the one I'd pick when mine starts to go. As far as the shudder, I don't know if the cause could be the same but my 01 miata does something very similar after it's warmed up. If my launch in first isn't aggressive or very VERY delicate, I'll usually get a shuddering that'll shake the whole car if I let it. From what I read it's a material incompatibility between the friction disk and the flywheel causing the disk to catch rather than engage smoothly. Anyways the temporary fix I use is a high-rpm start with a good few seconds of slipping before letting it engage. Not good for clutch longevity but seems to get rid of the issue for awhile. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Don't let it go too long, it will burn up your flywheel. then u will need to do that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 i purchased a brute force clutch from ebay i think. or brute power, or power force heck i dont know lol. works really well, was a whole kit with clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. had to do the transmission input shaft bearing while i was in there because of a noise that sounded like evenly spaced metal teeth rubbing on metal when i pushed in the clutch pedal sometimes. whole job was a minor pain in the butt to do by yourself, and yes nissan RTV's the spacer plate to the black and the trans housing so cut that before u yank on it. "if you do your own work" crank sensor is important to remove also pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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