Cargo Rack

[hawairish]

Thought I'd share my first welding project!

 

Been working on it for a several days and nights, but finally got all the main pieces welded or tacked up for my cargo rack. Not finished yet, but getting close...

 

 

 

 

 

Designed to fit up to 4 standard milk crates or 2 common large totes on the left shelves, and a cooler (up to 50Q-60Q sized 12V fridge/freezers) on the right. A table has become camp essential and it required a dedicated space...tired of it being the first thing I have to pack and the last thing I can even access. It's not pushed all the way back in the pic, but it doesn't protrude past the front of the rack.

 

After several design ideas, I went with this because it allowed me get two levels of containers, clear the different-height wheel wells, and leave cooler access (great for the on-the-way-out stop to add ice)...oh yeah, and allow it to be removeable from the truck (hence angles on racks). Also leaves some larger odd spaces for soft goods.

 

The cooler shelf is a bit higher than the wheel well because the floor jack and rod will be relocated to the area underneath, between wheel well and liftgate. Haven't had to, but I don't want to remove my kids and their carseats to access those tools.

 

I'm contemplating making a long drawer for the opening above the table, but might just leave as-is or add some support bars for long objects like chairs. Still figuring out what to do about the carpet, too, since I use the cubby space to hold all my towing gear, and suspension and steering spares...stuff I don't normally need access to, but could.

 

There will be a 40"x16"-ish tailgate, too, that'll fold down level with the lowest shelf and give plenty of additional flat space. For now, I just need the rack part ready for an upcoming camp/off-road trip.

 

For mounting, still deciding between adding tabs and bolting directly where the 4 anchor points on the cargo floor are, or adding loops and using turnbuckles with the anchor points. The base is a little too wide to use the rear anchors through, but I'm rethinking using turnbuckle. A tool-less installation and removal would be nice, though I plan to leave it mounted in the truck so it's not a major requirement.

 

I'm using .5", 1", and 1"x1.5" 16GA/.065 mild steel tube. Much of it came from a side gate I replaced earlier this year, so that's why some parts are still black. I can't believe how much of a rip-off 1" tube steel from HD/Lowes is...6'@$23 vs 40'@$27 from a local steel supply. Current weight is just under 50lbs (a sheet of 1/2" plywood weighs about 65 lbs). Thinking I'll probably just put spray some appliance/enamel paint on it when done.

 

For my first welding project, I'm pleased. Some welds have turned out a lot better than others, of course, but I'm getting the hang of it. I still need to finish some welds and grind a few more down. I've become good friends with my angle grinder, but I planned to do a lot of grinding to keep all the surfaces smooth for sliding gear around. Bunch of Harbor Freight stuff, nothing has disappointed.

 

I sketched up everything using SketchUp Make. Great little free program, if you're not familiar with it.

Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish

[Citron]

That is awesome. It is always fun learning a new skill. I had a pretty steep learning curve to make my bumper. I actually made a lat tower before starting the bumper just to practice welding.

 

I would really like to see your project when it's complete.

Edited September 23, 2017 by Citron

[hawairish]

Thanks!

 

Yeah, I've been sitting on this welder for several months now...hadn't even opened the box until the other week...very nervous about starting, figuring something (me) would catch fire. I wish I hadn't waited so long, but it became a must-try recently, and I'm definitely enjoying it. This opens a major door for me. Doubt I'll be welding up bumpers with this little thing, but it'll help me get the ball rolling on several truck projects that I've been needing to start.

 

I'll definitely keep this updated with progress. I'd like to get the tailgate in place if I can before my trip. Stay tuned.

[TowndawgR50]

Looks great! Super functional and allows access to it all without unloading everything. Whats your preference for securing items? I like ratchet straps when using the factory open loop hooks but your setup allows for anchoring anywhere which is perfect for other smaller/shorter options.

[hawairish]

I plan to use ratchet straps. I have enough spare straps to cut them down to specific lengths on the rack. There are a few points where I will add a loop, or some other form of adjustable attachment point.

 

But yes, I liked the lattice approach since it makes the attachment points variable for whatever I might have on the rack.

 

The cooler strapping is something I'm still figuring out. I could easily strap over the top and body, but I want to keep it accessible by just opening the liftgate glass. A strap around the body alone will keep it pinned against the rack, but if the cooler lifts for any reason, it may create slack. I'm thinking I might modify the cooler with some sort of cleat that seats into the rack and would simplify the attachment process.

[TowndawgR50]

The handles on the cooler look sturdy, why not strap it down from those?

[onespiritbrain]

Dude that's awesome

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hawairish]

The handles on the cooler look sturdy, why not strap it down from those?

 

Yeah, the handles are solid. I usually do loop through them. I just don't want to have to loop through the back handle.

 

I also decided it's time for that cooler to get re-painted...I have some leftover Obsidian Black Pearl spray from my WRX days. The red on there is probably lead-based, with a layer of asbestos inside that makes it keep cool better than anything else I've used.

 

Dude that's awesome

 

Thanks!

[Bunchie]

Harwarish, how bout a cam lock bolt setup like on bicycles (seat hight lock bolt) THEN u could remove the whole assy, add a simple 3 point welded foot setup & use it for a base for your NEW KITCHEN(stove/bbq/propane). I bet it would be just the right hight! Humour me and measure it...I'll bet it's 32 inch, standard counter hight-lol. 2 or 3 select horizontal 14 guage aluminum sheets pop riveted to the frame: TADA!

 

Brilliant!

 

That idea, my gift to you. :-) V.

[hawairish]

Bunchie, that's excellent idea! My original plan had it 32", but ended up being 30.5". Pretty close, but it was a trade-off height to clear the rear opening when removing.

 

Going off that suggestion, a fold-up platform on the backside of the rack would be great. That would keep all the gear accessible, and give me space. I bought a pair of folding/locking shelf brackets (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9O4YPY/) for a project but haven't used them yet. Only problem with this approach is that it consumes space between rack and seats. I have a little space to work with, but was reserving the space for some other stuff.

 

Since I intend to make a tailgate, and it'll be detachable, I could make it attachable to the top of the rack. The tailgate wouldn't be useful near the ground, and for the size I want, it needs to be detachable for removing the rack anyway. I think that's the best approach, and doesn't add any more weight.

 

I'll have to rethink the mounting now. I made a decision yesterday and welded on mounting feet, taking a bolt-down approach. Didn't take a picture,and can't upload a sketch of it right now, but I took 1.5" x 2.5" x .125" wall tube steel, cut pieces to length, each with 90° cut on one side and 45° on the other, and welded them to the base. The 45° cut allows overhead socket access, and holes at the bottom will allow bolting to all 8 bolt holes for the anchors. I could keep that approach, but drill a single hole in each mount instead of 2 holes. Then, I can make a tee-like bracket with a clevis pin or bolt welded to it as a post. The mounts would just lift over the post and then hitch pin or nut/wingnut secures it. That would make it tool-less, and also solves another problem, where I need some sort of spacer to account for the carpet thickness.

 

Despite all that, you've now got me thinking about cutting those mounts off and going yet another approach. Something where I can just slide the rack into place.

 

Thanks for the suggestion! Back to the drawing board!

[Bunchie]

I know up here, you can buy "thumb screws" or threaded knobs, if you will, at Home Despot, in the hardware section in the little cubbies they have w/all the individually priced, oddball fasteners and such. Same sort of thing as you would find on a patio umbrella base that keeps the umbrella from spinning around.

[ferrariowner123]

Thats bad ass man, NICE WORK!!!

 

-Kyle

[hawairish]

Thanks Kyle!

 

Little bit of an update...didn't make much traction during another lousy work week, but made it a point to unwind and move this project forward.

 

I decided to use these as the tailgate's hinge pins, which will also allow the gate to be removable. 5/8" pins, weldable bodies, $11/ea on Amazon.

 

 

I started welding up the tailgate today. I made a bit more progress than shown below, but this is the idea:

 

 

 

 

The tailgate is 14" x 45", almost 4.4 sqft. It'll have ribbing for support, and 1/2"-thick birch plywood panels for the surface. I don't plan to have support cables, but am still throwing around ideas on how to keep it upright and/or latched. I don't want to undo more than the hinge pins to remove it. Right now, I have an idea to make it spring loaded.

 

I struggled figuring out how to secure the rack to the truck. Bunchie's suggestions to use either the bicycle-style cam locks ("quick positioning cam handles" at McMaster) or threaded knobs looked promising, but hardware costs and security became factors. The cams seem great, but are a pricey solution to satisfy 4 mounting points. The sizes on the threaded knobs are a little too big for how I had begun setting up the mounting points, and I didn't feel like redoing that work. Plus, the only affordable ones were plastic, and I couldn't trust that. The metal ones were too pricey.

 

My original idea, just required too much in parts and precision to justify making it tool-less. It hindsight, I would have been better off making some sort of hook bracket for the rear of the rack that it just slides into, and then would only need two fasteners at the front (rear of the vehicle) to secure it.

 

I decided to take the KISS approach and just buy socket bolts, fender washers, and an 8mm Allen key for <$10. Minimal tool use and a more secure approach. The rack will sit atop metal blocks that bolt where the tie-down points are, with the socket bolts threading into a rivet nut. All the cargo rack weight will rest on the blocks and not the carpet. I'll get some better pics of the mounting solution once the blocks are all finished.

 

Once the tailgate and mounting system are sorted, the rack can be pulled from the truck and set up like this:

 

 

 

The top of the rack will have the same hinge pin holes. Surface height ends up being 29", which works out well. The reason I wanted to keep the mounting feet on the rack like shown is so that I can just drive a tent stake into the front feet to prevent it from falling backwards (of course, my kitchen gear and cooler would also be sitting on the rack for additional weight).

 

Anyway, still a work in progress. I decided that I'm just going to paint it with a gray enamel, since I have some rattle cans leftover in that flavor. I'll also be painting that old Coleman cooler, but instead in a hunter or olive green.

 

Didn't post these up before, but here's how the milk crates fit in:

 

 

Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish

[Citron]

Looking good.

[hawairish]

Alright, went a very different direction on the hinges. The ones I got just took too much pulling power to open and unlock, the bodies weren't square enough. I was hoping to find at least a softer spring and get some better steel tube, but that ended up being a waste of time. Instead, McMaster Carr has a good supply of weld-on pull handles.

 

 

Don't look too closely at the welds...you'll go blind. My first pass at this was a bit better...and then I realized I didn't check another dimension and had to completely cut, grind, and do it all over. Lesson learned: check fitment after tacking, before finishing welds.

 

Opposite of that is just a peg acting as the other hinge:

 

 

With this setup, I just have to pull the T-handle and tilt the tailgate off...well...one other thing, too, but still super easy!

 

The upper thing on the hinge bracket is a ball stud for a miniature strut. I struggled to find a conventional way to keep the tailgate up, so instead came up with a clever way to keep it up and also add extension support...

 

 

 

Got the strut from McMaster Carr for $11. This one is from their "add-a-fitting" line, which comes with threaded ends for customizing the fittings. Got one end to have a standard fitting, and the other with a quick-release. When the tailgate is down, pressure is off the spring and it can disconnected easily. Went with a 40# strut, which ends up being a pretty good option, not to hard or soft to pull.

 

I bought some snap-in nylon bushings that give just the right amount of tolerance without metal-metal contact. Still need to put them on the bottom, but they're installed on the upper mount.

 

 

I was hoping to swap the hinge brackets so that the larger one wasn't in the shelf space, but it was unavoidable. If the strut were on the LH side of the rack, it'd interfere with the lower shelf...I could have put the strut on the outside, but then it would've gone into useful floor space. Oh well.

 

Got the floor mounts in...

 

 

Relocated the jack, cut up the carpet to clear the mounts and also make the floor bin accessible...

 

 

And it's in!

 

 

 

Still have a few more things to do, though. Need to add some tie-down points (will be re-using the floor tie downs I have from Harbor Freight...in case you don't know, these are a direct fit: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-14-in-cargo-d-ring-anchor-60319.html) and attach the wood inserts for the tailgate.

 

 

Not going to be able to paint it before heading out of town for work, and before next weekend's CANVAZ run, but that's ok.

Edited June 12, 2018 by hawairish

[RainGoat]

Wow, it looks great. I really like what you've done. Using the vertical space, allowing access to the under floor bin and, above all else, the ability to remove it. The last is critical to me as my truck is currently full of 10 ft flashing I'm using to redo my wood shed roof. I've loved the idea of drawers but I use the interior of my truck for hauling all the time-your solution is excellent. I really like your ability to convert to an empty interior relatively easily plus it acts as a barrier in case of accident as well as stacked storage! The fold out work space is a nice touch too. Awesome Job!!

[hawairish]

Thanks man, appreciate it! Yeah, there were definitely compromises to be made, and I think this was the best of all worlds for my needs. Biggest function for me is actually the cargo barrier...Ive always found the placement of the tie-down points to be poor, and with two young kids, everything needs to be secured.

 

Itll be put to the test Thursday night when I pack it up, and more so on Friday when we do a trail run before setting up camp. I have two of those black/yellow bins with kitchen and misc camp gear. My goal is to not bring one of them, instead filling the crates (which I hurried to make basic lids for them on Sunday before leaving town) with the misc gear, recovery gear, and tools...each which tend to have their own containers that kill space. Having access to the floor bin was a must for me, since its valuable space for storing seldom-needed spare parts that I dont want cluttering crate space.

 

The other thing is that this is really only phase 1 for the rack. My phase 2 plan is to mount up some other components, like a water pump with DIY on-demand hot water, power inverter, and dual battery. Space permitting, maybe even a little 8 sub box in the cavity above the LH wheel well, since its an awkward space. Its all been in my head for a while now, just need to make it happen.

[Citron]

Where will the espresso machine go

[RainGoat]

Where will the espresso machine go

Given that your a NWer as well, I'm not sure if you're joking or not? Mmmm, a hot espresso on a cold wet morning at camp sounds like Heaven!! ️

[RainGoat]

With regard to that driver's side wheel well space, I saw a rig walk around of a Nissan Patrol in Australia by Michael on Overland Bound where the Patrol owner said he put a fairly high capacity water bladder in there. He indicated that was a pretty common practice in Australia and that they had several ready made products for that application. I've been wanting to run that down. Maybe one of the Australians on this forum could fill us in. I was going to pursue through that Patrol owner & maybe PCoA or the Australian R50 FB site.

[Citron]

Given that your a NWer as well, I'm not sure if you're joking or not? Mmmm, a hot espresso on a cold wet morning at camp sounds like Heaven!! ️

Lol! Joking, but it would be nice.

[hawairish]

Funny you ask...although I'm not a coffee drinker, my wife is, and I've been meaning to find a portable or single serving unit for her. But the wattages are just too high (or rather, I don't want to buy an inverter large enough to support it). For now, she'll have to settle for the Starbucks Via packs.

[Citron]

http://coffeesupremacy.com/best-portable-espresso-maker-2017/

 

There you go. Gotta keep the wife happy.

[RainGoat]

http://coffeesupremacy.com/best-portable-espresso-maker-2017/

 

There you go. Gotta keep the wife happy.

Love the link Citron!! For overnighters we've often been lazy with either Starbucks Via or just some of that bottled/canned cold Stumptown Coffee we have here in the NW (I don't know if it gets distributed elsewhere). Both are okay but we've been looking at 9-12 cup Percolators to try out - any suggestions?

OKAY, sorry, I realize Citron's little joke has just hijacked the thread-what do you want, Coffee is ADDICTIVE!!! If you live the NW, you really can't escape it. Even 20 years ago, you could be in the middle of nowhere and find an outhouse sized shack that was serving lattes!

Edited October 12, 2017 by RainGoat

[RainGoat]

Wow, it looks great. I really like what you've done. Using the vertical space, allowing access to the under floor bin and, above all else, the ability to remove it. The last is critical to me as my truck is currently full of 10 ft flashing I'm using to redo my wood shed roof. I've loved the idea of drawers but I use the interior of my truck for hauling all the time-your solution is excellent. I really like your ability to convert to an empty interior relatively easily plus it acts as a barrier in case of accident as well as stacked storage! The fold out work space is a nice touch too. Awesome Job!!

 

I know you are deep into the bumper bracket right now, and I really want to see that come to fruition, but it seems to me you might want to consider offering the plans for this interior cargo rack as well. You know, Hawairish Fabrication Co.

 

It really is an unusual / unique product (admittedly niche). I genuinely appreciate all the thought & consideration you have put into the project and it totally hits all the right checkboxes for me (see above) and then some. I would definitely consider paying you for the plans. If I still lived around AZ, I would totally be pestering you to make one for me - quite honestly, that's still not out of the question as my Mom could possibly strap it to the roof of her 4Runner (another build project under my care) on one of her trips out here. (I don't want to think about what that would cost in additional gas due to significantly increased wind resistance). Seriously, maybe break it down to all the horizontal surfaces, to have finished vertical welding done at the shipped to destination.

 

All of these are just thoughts (& encouragement). I've been perusing drawers & sleeping systems for 5th Gen 4Runners for my Mom (as well as GX470s until we nixed that avenue) and R50 systems for me for 6+ mo & yours is the best system I've seen by far. My main points are securing cargo, maximizing usability (i.e.not stacking so you have to unload to get to a bottom item), integration of a table slot, preservation of access to the under floor storage & finally, ease of removability to use truck as a hardware store hauler. Yours does all that & more - love the foldout workspace.

 

I want to see that bumper bracket done, so do that, but keep this in the back of your mind for later-maybe late 2018 or even 2019. I intend to keep my rig another decade and so it would see plenty of usage.