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Rookie Mistake....


tthomasd614
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Okay everyone, need a little guidance here. I am doing a water pump replacement and checked the timing belt which is awesome and doesn’t need replaced. Anyway, I marked the belt as well as the pulleys(not sure what the actual name is) where the Teeth need to be matched up for when I put the belt back on. However, I forgot to make sure it was top dead center and when I loosened the tension the pulleys(again not sure if they are called that) moved and now I don’t know how to make sure the lines I made on the belt and the pulleys match. The first picture is the left and second picture the right. You can see where I marked both in white. Can anyone help me from here? I’m at a loss.

 

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If you lined everything back up the way you took it off then you should be fine. How far did the sprockets turn when you relieved tension?

 

 

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thats what I’m hoping for, but since th sprockets moved I don’t know what to do to move them back so I can align the right way. They moved about 2 inches each side

 

 

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You are going to have to move the crank such that the pistons are not at top dead center. Then rotate the cams to the timing position, then bring the crank to TDC. DO NOT FORCE anything and you should be OK. BTW replace the timing belt anytime you are in this deep. My $0.02

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You are going to have to move the crank such that the pistons are not at top dead center. Then rotate the cams to the timing position, then bring the crank to TDC. DO NOT FORCE anything and you should be OK. BTW replace the timing belt anytime you are in this deep. My $0.02

Okay, how do I do that? Thanks for the help

 

 

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Okay, how do I do that? Thanks for the help

 

 

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The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning.

 

Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center.

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The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning.

 

Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center.

Okay I will post a picture when I get home. Thanks for willing to help!

 

A friend whom has done mechanic work said that I basically need to start from scratch and rotate the crank to top dead center, he said there are marks that show me when it’s there and then rotate 45 degrees in earthed direction. After that rotate the cams so that that the little marks are lined up. After than moved crank back to top dead center and then install the belt. It seems way to simple for me. Lol maybe I just tend to make things more difficult than they need to be. Does this procedure sound right?

 

 

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The engine is a six cylinder and a piston goes to the top once every 360 degrees, one revolution. So 360/60=60 degrees If you turn the engine such that it is about 60 degrees from either top dead center or bottom dead center none of the pistons will be able to touch the valves. The pistons will be effectively about half way down in the cylinder. If you could post a picture of the crank snout we might be able to help you with this positioning.

 

Your cams appear to be about 180 degrees from the timing mark so I believe the crank is close to top dead center.

As you can see it is pretty much at TDC, what do I use to rotate th cams and crank? Do I use a wratchet attached the bolt on th front?

 

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Edited by tthomasd614
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Yeah, you can just move the crank and cams with a socket. When I did my TB, I replaced the cam seals, and ended up making an F-shaped tool to hold the cam sprockets in place while I loosened and re-torqued the bolts. This tool turned out to be great for lining up the marks as well.

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Yeah, you can just move the crank and cams with a socket. When I did my TB, I replaced the cam seals, and ended up making an F-shaped tool to hold the cam sprockets in place while I loosened and re-torqued the bolts. This tool turned out to be great for lining up the marks as well.

Great! Thanks guys! Since I’m so neurotic and just want to be sure? I can use the socket on the nut turning it CW to match up the botches? I have circled the nut im referring to in yellow in the picture. Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure everything is gold when I put it all together!

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Clarity is a most wonderful thing. Nothing wrong w/being a little paranoid when it comes to working w/what you are right now. Grenading your engine is NOT in your best interest-lol.

 

General Q, anyone: a closer look at the last pic supplied, shows a small dimple on one tooth, just below the stamped "R 3" on the sprocket. What's that for??? Have a feeling that it may have to do timing possibly....thoughts?

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The single dimples have matching spots on the timing cover that are almost close enough to time by--but you still want to count teeth rather than trusting that.

 

And yes, you can use that nut. I recommend using a breaker bar, solid wrench, or similar, instead of a ratchet, so you're in full control of the cam and it can't jump forward on you.

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Okay thanks for understanding! Yes, I actually decided to find a service manual and indeed the dimples are timing. Whew. I am however having a hard time finding the one to match on the crankshaft. I will supply a picture and maybe someone could see what I can’t. Thanks for your help everyone!

 

 

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Edited by tthomasd614
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The single dimples have matching spots on the timing cover that are almost close enough to time by--but you still want to count teeth rather than trusting that.

 

And yes, you can use that nut. I recommend using a breaker bar, solid wrench, or similar, instead of a ratchet, so you're in full control of the cam and it can't jump forward on you.

also how many teeth should I count to make sure its right?

 

 

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Not to nitpick, but you have an obvious oil leak which you should fix before buttoning this back up. There is oil on the timing belt, which will drastically reduce it's life. The belt is like 30 bucks and the cam/crank seals are even cheaper.

 

It should be 40 teeth between camshaft marks, and 43 betweek drivers side camshaft, and the crank marks.

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Not to nitpick, but you have an obvious oil leak which you should fix before buttoning this back up. There is oil on the timing belt, which will drastically reduce it's life. The belt is like 30 bucks and the cam/crank seals are even cheaper.

 

It should be 40 teeth between camshaft marks, and 43 betweek drivers side camshaft, and the crank marks.

Haha yes I am going to fix the oil leak too. Just wanted to get everything all planned and ready before I start putting it all back together. Thanks for looking out and for the info!

 

 

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