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VG30 to VG33 SWAP, Step by Step Starting Today 8/26/17


OH6PILOT
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STEP 5: DRAIN RADIATOR, REMOVE HOSES, REMOVE RADIATOR. Ok, so I decided that the more room I have the better, so I've gone a bit further and yanked the whole front radiator assemblies, to include the coolant bottle and AC Radiator Assy. In order to remove the radiator shroud, you also have to remove the fan... so..In order..



A. DRAIN RADIATOR. There's a small drain plug on the bottom left side of the radiator (if you're using vehicle terms looking from drivers seat, otherwise if FACING the vehicle from the nose, it's on your lower right side. Place a bucket or sufficient catching media under the front frame support and drain the radiator. would love top hear how many people get a clean catch from here. Mine came out rusty brown. (I change antifreeze every 12 months and flush the radiator as well...so)



This is where the drain is located on the radiator...



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STEP 6: Drain the Engine Oil. While you're at it, remove the Oil Filter. Drain it too...and throw it in the trash.



A.) Remove the oil drain plug from the bottom of the oil pan. It should be a 12mm or a 14mm if it's a standard plug (Bolt).



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B.) Use a rag and grab the oil filter, turn counter clockwise...yes...to the left. Oil will drain from it, so have a catch rag handy.



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STEP 7: Remove Fan Shroud and Fan Assembly

 

A. REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE. Very simple, it's either a normal hose clamp (Flat tip screwdriver), or a NISSAN hose clamp, which will be either 8mm or 10mm, depending on the size of the clamp (Mine has both, as pictured). Remove clamps, then remove hose and inspect for cracks, wear and deformities. Set aside if hose is still serviceable.

 

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B. FAN REMOVAL...very simple...4 10MM nuts secure it to the water pump pulley. close quarters getting in there, but it comes apart easy enough.

 

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C. SHROUD REMOVAL...Depending on if your shroud has been removed a number of times or never, it will have either 4 mount bolts (all 10 MM) or two (like mine). They are located at the top (one either side) and one on each side mounting it against the radiator frame. Remove the four bolts, secure the fan, and lift the shroud and fan out together. Inspect shroud fro cracks, deformities and set aside.

 

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C. FAN CLUTCH INSPECTION... visually inspect fan assembly for broken blades, deformities, general condition and mounting security. Clutch assembly should move by hand, and should have a slight amount of smooth drag to it (similar to moving through warm molasses). If it turns without any force at all, or doesn't turn, the clutch is bad. Replace it (around $45 at Autozone)

 

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Edited by OH6PILOT
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8. Remove Lower Radiator Hose

 

A. Also very simple, it's either a normal hose clamp (Flat tip screwdriver), or a NISSAN hose clamp, which will be either 8mm or 10mm, depending on the size of the clamp . Remove clamps, then remove hose and inspect for cracks, wear and deformities. Set aside if hose is still serviceable. Note that the condition of the hose and the plenums will indicate the condition of your cooling system...Mine is clearly horrible.

 

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STEP 9: Disconnect Transmission Oil Cooler Lines

 

A. Both of the lines are located at the bottom of the radiator. They are either a normal hose clamp (Flat tip screwdriver), or a NISSAN hose clamp, which will be 8mm, depending on the size of the clamp . Remove clamps, then remove hose and inspect for cracks, wear and deformities.

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B.Bear in mind that these will drain transmission fluid all over the place, so make sure that you have a catch bucket setup below the radiator, or make sure that you have a few plastic bags readily available to place over the ends and zip tie.

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STEP 10. Remove Radiator

 

A. Remove the bolts that attach the radiator to the body frame. They should be standard 10mm Bolts with large washers.

 

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B. Lift out the radiator. With the radiator removed, inspect it for leaks and damage. I would recommend flushing it with a garden hose. Cover the outlets and fill wioth water and alternately open an outlet to let water flow in different directions. You can also fill it full of CLR to get rid of a good amount of the rust and lime that accumulates.

 

MAKE SURE to put it in a place where you wont accidentally stick something into the vanes. I recommend placing cardboard over the front and back vanes.

 

 

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STEP 11A. Disconnect Front Engine Wire Harness

 

This is the fun part, especially if you aren't familiar with the Pathfinder wiring system.

 

A. Disconnect all wires running between the engine and components attached to the body.

 

NOTE!!! Before disconnecting or removing wires, mark them with pieces of tape or take pictures of them to identify their installed locations. This will eliminate potential issues during reinstallation.

 

The primary connector bundle is located on the right valve cover.

 

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B. Disconnect the bracket from the valve cover (Two 10mm bolts)

 

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The following is a guide of the remaining connectors to remove, along with their connector ID numbers and what they go to.

 

 

 

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Edited by OH6PILOT
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STEP 11B. Disconnect Distributor Wiring Connector

 

A. Remove connector from upper radiator manifold assembly. (10mm bolt)

 

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B. Disconnect Camshaft Position Sensor Connector

 

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STEP 11C. Disconnect TPS Wiring Connectors. There are two connectors on the TPS. Technically, Connector 67M connects to the Soft/Hard Closed Throttle Position (CTP) switch, and connector 68M connects to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). They are both in the same assembly.

 

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Edited by OH6PILOT
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STEP 11D. Disconnect Coolant Temp Sensor Harness

 

The Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located on the upper water outlet housing. It is a standard clip secured connector (Yellow) and it gives the signal to the ECM for the engine coolant temperature.

 

The Engine Guage temperature switch is the single blade connector located directly in front of the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. (Single wire connector).

 

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STEP 11E. Disconnect Engine Ground Wires

 

A. Primary Engine Ground Wires are located on the inlet plenum in the front of the engine. These are standard 10mm bolts.

 

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B. Distributor Ground is located at the base of the distributor cap.

 

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Edited by OH6PILOT
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STEP 11 F: DISCONNECT Lower Connectors near radiator area.

 

A. Connectors located in front drivers side engine area near where radiator would be installed.

 

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STEP 12. Remove Carbon Emissions air canister.

 

A. Using needle nose pliers, re-position the clamps for the vacuum lines on the charcoal canister.

 

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B. Be sure to mark the specific vacuum lines with tape to identify proper connections for reinstallation.

 

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C. Disconnect spring clamp from Canister and lift canister from engine frame.

 

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D. Disconnect Vacuum Lines

 

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E. Remove and inspect Charcoal Canister for general condition.

 

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STEP 13. Disconnect Master Cylinder Vacuum Line Assy

 

A. Hose is located in the rear of the engine compartment near the firewall.

 

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B. Hose clamps are normally 8mm. Disconnect clamps from hose assembly.

 

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C. Remove hoses from brake boost check valve.

 

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STEP 14: Remove Intake Vacuum Lines and Air Intake Tube Assembly

 

A. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, remove the clips from the Vacuum Hoses on the Intake Assembly.

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B. Using an 8 MM socket, loosen the large clamp holding the intake Tube Assy to the Intake Plenum / Throttle Body Intake Assembly, then remove the intake tube assembly and set aside (inspect for any additional damage or deformities).

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STEP 15. Discharge AC lines and remove lines from compressor.

 

A. Locate High Pressure and Low Pressure ports for AC system. Connect AC Regulator Manifold Assembly to Engine AC system. Vent system properly (of COURSE you're going to vent this to an EPA approved R-134a refrigerant capture container...not a bottle with a rag over the opening so that you don't spray stuff everywhere....just saying.)

 

High Pressure Port (Located in front by radiator)

 

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Low Pressure Port (Located by intake manifold assembly)

 

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AC Manifold Installed for venting (and Servicing)

 

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B. After venting AC system, carefully remove bolts from AC hose manifolds attached to compressor (2 ports...4 12mm bolts)

 

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C. Cover ports to ensure that the AC compressor doesn't become contaminated. Reposition hoses to an area away from the engine assembly.

 

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STEP 16. Remove Radiator Overflow Bottle Assembly

 

A. Remove 3 10mm bolts from radiator overflow bottle.

 

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B. Remove overflow bottle from vehicle. Drain and flush bottle. Clean with CLR. Inspect for general condition, cracks, holes, leaks and serviceability.

 

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STEP 17. Removed Front LH and RH side lamp assemblies.

 

Removed 2 side screws (Phillips head) and one front frame screw from each light assembly.

 

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  • 2 months later...

UPDATE!!

 

First, I'd like to apologize for the delay in posting anything. I'm still taking pics along the whole process, but the step by step posts are alot harder to keep up with than originally anticipated.

 

Current Progress: Engine is put together, and installed back into the Black Pathy.

 

MORE TO COME!!

 

But...until then, here are a few teaser pics. I'm calling it the VG33EP. This has truly been a JOURNEY!!

 

Let me know what you think so far!!

 

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The p stands for pawesome. It's a silent p.

 

Quick breakdown on the motor...

 

VG33E from what appears to be a 2004 Xterra. This comes with it's own bag of issues.

 

 

What we've kept...

  • Stock VG30E Intake,
  • Accessories (except Alternator...installing a 145Amp Alternator)
  • VG30E Cams

 

What stays from the VG33E:

  • Fuel Manifold (Modified)
  • Fuel Injectors (Wired VG30E Harness for new Injectors. Same fuel flow, but easier connectors)
  • Oil Filter Mount (Front beside lower pulley, instead of right aft side of motor)

 

Modifications:

  • Entire Upper Engine Wire harness disassembled, cleaned, tested, and re-wired for new injectors
  • Lower Pulley and balancer bored out for VG33E Crank
  • Lower Timing Cover modified to fit VG30E Balancer (This is a story in itself)
  • Oil Pickup tube in crankcase...completely rerouted and fabricated a new line. (Long Story #2)
  • Alternator Brackets (also requires new longer belt)

 

New to motor:

  • Headers
  • Cold Air Intake Assembly (All Newly Fabricated)
  • All Hoses and lines to motor replaced with new
  • New 4gua wire from Alternator to Battery
  • New 4 Gua wire for starter and ground

 

Assorted new @!*% that is being fixed, replaced or installed since everything is torn apart anyway:

  • 3" Lift Kit with springs and UCA's
  • NEW Bushings in LCA
  • Rebuilt Brake Calipers
  • New Brakes
  • All new Bushings in front Suspension
  • NEW LCA's. (Already on hand...why not)
  • Manual Front Lockers
  • D21 E-Brake
  • Wider Center Console with Cup Holders and different Arm Rest
  • NEW Front Offroad Bumper to accomodate the 9,000lb winch the WIFE GAVE ME FOR XMAS!!! (She Rocks!!)
  • Replaced headlights with D21 Fixtures and LED Headlamps Assembly
  • Replaced Front Grille with D21 Hardbody Grille

 

Ok...I'm sure I've forgotten a few things...oh yeah..it's getting new paint when this is done...MATTE Black, with Graphics.

 

I've fallen down the rabbit-hole here guys. Somebody throw me a lifeline.

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