Installing New Front Inner/Outer Bearings and Seals

[ryjaytay38]

Hey Guys,

I posted on here a while ago about having some "wandering" in my '01 Pathfinder. I'm going to install all new front bearings and seals and see what it does. I figure that 218k miles without a bearing change, it's probably due. Does anyone know of a step by step tutorial link or any little hints that I can use along the way to make the journey a little less painful? I just don't want to miss anything. Any help or hints would be much appreciated!

Thanks!!

[onespiritbrain]

Buy a set of the cheapest(softest) Harbor Freight punches, not brass or anything but just cheapo steel punches.

 

It's a dirty laborious job.. you'll need a special socket to tighten the bearing retainer nut. I think that's what it's called.. the machined nut that sets and preloads the bearing.

 

I'm at work right now but in 8 hours or so when I get home, I'll take a picture of the one I have. I had to modify one I found at the local auto parts store..

 

Preloading the bearing is probably that hardest part. Specs say like 13 INCH pounds of torque, which is less than the weight of my torque wrench resting on its own weight... and I think 13in pounds is in a perfect condition when the threads on the spindle and retainer nut are perfectly clean and greased... someone here will likely have better advice on how to set it by "feel" but I did mine by setting the bearing at 70-80 foot pounds and then loosing the retainer all the way. Then spin the wheel by hand and tighten the retainer until the wheel starts to show a small bit of resistance but still spins easily.

 

I tried the 13 inch pound thing and had to come right back home and tighten it down because it was too loose.

 

 

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Edited July 27, 2017 by onespiritbrain

[1badqx4]

I just did mine bearins races and seals I bought a dana 44 socket on amazon for $11. for torqueing. It was my first time replacing bearings 200k ive never done it before. It was a breeze. if memory serves correct youll need a 13mm socket. snap ring pliers. the socket for torqueing bearings. grease. and all replacement parts.philips screw driver. I don't remember caliper bracket socket size. but itll be a good idea to replace rotors and pads while your taking all that apart.

[1badqx4]

Sorry and it took me about 45 minutes preside including brake rotor and pad replacement, all races removed and installed with a 2x2 squre tubing . and hammer to easy

[TowndawgR50]

Be careful to no score the inner hub area when removing the races. use aluminum or brass punch/pipe etc

[ChemExposure]

It's pretty easy, a bearing greaser fitting for a grease gun helps out a lot. I did mine by hand and holy did it ever make it a pain in the ass.

As for the tensioning ring, I did mine with a phillips screwdriver. You just tighten it until it makes contact with the bearing and pushes it in a bit to seat everything in place properly, back it off then tighten it again so it just barely makes contact with the bearing, enough for the ring to catch when it spins so it self tightens and then from there I just turned the hub around four or five times untit it felt right and there wasn't any play when moving the hub then I put the two screws back in and called er a day. There's a couple videos on youtube, just search up generic terms like pathfinder hub bearing or terrano bearing repack.
You might actually be able to get away with regreasing your bearings, mine were in pretty good shape. I've driven for about a year now no issues with a repacking although I do plan on replacing the bearings soon anyways when I get locking hubs.
You'll need snap ring pliers as well to even start the job.

 

I guess you might not have this issue, but make sure you get front wheel seals and not the rear ones. While the rear ones do fit and as I've found out do work they're a pain in the ass to get in properly level, I had to use my press on the cocksuckers. The front seals have a small ridge that prevents them from being inserted too deeply which really makes things easy so if you go to Canadian tire and they give you a rear seal and call it a front... Just go back there and slap the guy, don't listen to him.
If you were ever going to do your brakes now is a good time too.

[Citron]

I have found that the bearing greasers waste a lot of grease. I much prefer hand packing, it's very quick and easy.

 

I agree about repacking instead of replacing if the bearings Don't look or feel bad.

[onespiritbrain]

 

 

 

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[ryjaytay38]

Thanks everyone for the advice!

onespiritbrain, that 55mm tool you have the pics of--I'm guessing that will lock into the tensioning ring? Where did you get that?

 

[ryjaytay38]

Oh my bad, thats what you were talking about in your previous post.

[Bunchie]

Remember those bearings sit in grease and it does wear out and its pretty easy to check for damage-no damage, cleanum real good and hand repack w/quality wheel bearing grease...it IS labour intensive but Ive got over 335K on my originals and that speak volumes on maintaining a part w/the right product.

 

Just sayin, work smart, not hard.