9wire Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 I was given a 97 pathfinder, the guy was driving it, then it quit running. He said he put a new fuel pump, new filter, and a new alternator then gave up on it. He said it had multiple misfires, but the battery was out and there are no codes. I replaced the cap and rotor, they were pretty bad. It has spark, but won't even try to run. What's the next step? Don't want to just throw parts at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjotrainbrain Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Go through the basics; are you getting fuel pressure, are you getting spark (check), does it look like everything's plugged in (previous guy may have unplugged stuff trying to track down the issue/with intent to replace). I'm not too good at this thing so hopefully others chime in soon. Welcome to NPORA! Once you sort out this issue, what are your plans with your Pathy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 Mostly daily driver, I'm in the dry part of the prairie so not much in the way of mud or trails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Two things that have caused my 98 to not start. 1: Bad camshaft position sensor. (Had fuel and spark, but would not start, spark happening at completely wrong time) 2: Broken timing belt. (No spark, distributor not turning with engine due to broken timing belt. Easy to check, remove distributor cap and note rotor position, bump starter and see if the rotor has moved.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 You say the cap and rotor was pretty bad, and so you replaced them. I highly suspect the cam position sensor because it is inside the distributor along with the rotor. It appears to be an optical encoder, a disk with slots cut into it along with the sensor that "looks" through it. A new cam sensor can't be obtained by itself, it can only be had with a new distributor. However, I think a new distributor is a good investment because along with the sensor, there is the ignition coil inside as well. These distributors can fail a number of ways, seized bearings (VERY BAD) coil insulation breakdown, cam sensor and the rotor. If the bearings seize, it can trash the drive gear that spins it, and in turn trash the driver's side camshaft. Or it could cause the timing belt to break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 O'Reillys has one for $105, I'm going to try it. Hate throwing parts at it, but everything points towards distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 You're sure it's getting fuel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted July 26, 2017 Author Share Posted July 26, 2017 (edited) It has fuel, it has spark, put a new distributor in, it still won't run. If I squirt ether in the intake it will pop a couple times, that's it. Timing belt/chain maybe? Edited July 26, 2017 by 9wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Sounds to me like a fuel problem. Stupid question , but have you checked all fuses and relays. If the timing belt broke a tooth maybe? To me it's a fuel related problem since it fires when you shoot ether in it. I had to replace mine and first bought an aftermarket distributor for $230. I had to replace it with one from a junkyard and it fixed my po300 code. Talked to. Guy from Nissan and he said the 3.3 VG33E engine doesn't like after market distributors. He must have been right cause it fixed mine. Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Dang, sorry to hear the new dizzy did not fix it. The one I got was from Nissan FWIW. So if we stick to the fuel option, what can effect fuel delivery? How do you know you have fuel OP? Are your sparkplugs wet with fuel when pulled? Can you smell raw fuel out the tailpipe when trying to start it? Did you check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Can you hear the fuel pump hum for a couple seconds when the key is first turned to the "on" position? If you have gas soaked spark plugs when inspected after a minute of trying to start it, then that settles it in my mind. It's getting fuel all the way to where it needs to be. If not, then how far is the fuel "making it"? If pressure is present in the fuel rail, then I think the injectors are not being triggered. Does anyone know if the cam position sensor in the dizzy also determines when to fire the injectors? It seems logical that not only does the computer need to know the position of the crank to determine ignition timing, but injector timing as well. My thought is PO had the dizzy out and did not put it back in timed correctly. Replacement dizzy is placed in same bad timing. 9wire, does your rotor point to the #1 cylinder wire when engine is set to TDC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Spark plugs are wet, somebody told me to check the compression on all6 cylinders, I'll check the rotor at the same time. The motor does seem to turn freely without any bad noises, so I ssume if its timing that nothing catastrophic happened. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 It sounds like the timing belt slipped a few teeth. Spark will still be there, but the timing will be way too off for it to run. I'd check that next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 Update- Here's what we have under the covers. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 For the engine to run, you need fuel, spark, and air. It sounds like you're getting fuel and spark at the right time, but there could be a problem with air metering. Try starting with the MAF unplugged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Unless I am looking at it wrong, it looks like your distributor rotor is pointing at #4. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Unless I am looking at it wrong, it looks like your distributor rotor is pointing at #4.Yup. I might have installed it incorrectly. I have to get a puller to get the balancer off, then put it back in time and see if it runs. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Yeah, that doesn't look right. Don't trust the divots, though--best way to know for sure is to count teeth. IIRC it's 40 between the cam dimples, 43 from driver's side cam to crankshaft. +1 on making sure the dizzy's in right. Spark won't do you any good if it's not timed right. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 Update- Distributor was 180 off, my fault. Got everything tore down, put the motor in time, started on the first try. Tensioner jumps all over the place, looks like the issue. Now we're going to replace belt, tensioner and water pump. Didn't want to spend the money until we knew it would run. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Good to hear you got it going! Easy mistake to make. Jumping tensioner is definitely not right, that's supposed to be locked down. Consider doing the crank seal, cam seals, and bypass hose while you're in there. I skipped the crank seal on mine because it wasn't leaking yet and it started leaking as soon as I got the SOB back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Those seals are easy to replace too. I bet it adds maybe 30min total, maybe less if your not OCD like me.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 Update- car is running, but has very poor acceleration, keeps giving a p0325 and p0120 codes. I've tried setting the tps, and it tested OK by checking the ohms, I have it set at .5v. I read the p0325 is the knock sensor, and shouldn't affect it too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Timing is probably off. Should be at 15 Degrees. Does it feel like it has no low end but more top end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrelcocko Posted August 8, 2017 Share Posted August 8, 2017 Check your distributor and like adamzan said your timing is probably off. 15 degrees BTDC Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9wire Posted August 8, 2017 Author Share Posted August 8, 2017 I set the timing, it seems to have decent power bottom end, its when you accelerate past 15 or 20 miles an hour it falls on its face. Putting it on the floor it's like your driving a stick shift and started in 3rd gear. When its in park it wraps up like it should with no hesitation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now