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Weird stereo prolm


BrianD
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I replaced all 4 speakers a few years ago with new ones. It werkd great until a week ago. NOW! only the right front speaker is working.

Got the head unit on the front seat and all the wires are fine.

I tested the left front speaker with a 9 volt..I gotta small pop from the satellite speaker in the A pillar but nuthin' from the door speaker.

Then tested the left rear with the battery and got nuthin'.

Here's where it gets weird ..I connected the front right( working speaker) wires from the deck to the left rear speaker wires and sound STILL came out of the front right speaker..uhmmm. WHAT THE ..??

How can that happen?

I did a factory reset with a paper clip that's behind the removable face plate too.

Did the factory amp go nuclear on me?

Any suggestions?

It's an after market JVC KD- R610 stereo.

Cheers

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Please disregard - removed the passenger rear door skin - Broken wire - replaced it with newer heavy gauge stuff. Removed the driver door skin - Broken WIre!

Now it'll be soldered with shrink wrap...prolly have to do all of 'em.

Note to self - never use the cheap thin wire that comes in the speaker boxes.

later.

 

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The passenger side rear door wires were NEARLY broken but so corroded that there was no contact - replaced all 4 - Werx Great!

But that Nissan amp does sum weird S**t when a speaker or 3 go down. That was nuts.

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Hey Brian, electricity, not unlike water, will find the shortest route to ground. A Sparky's 1st rule, hence your problems. If poss, double up on the heat shrink, solder ur connections when at all possible (a true mechanical connection) and use dielectric grease(moisture protection)on ALL ur spade & terminal connectors.

 

I'm not sure what the speaker mfgr's are thinking when including that 24 Guage @!*%e wire they throw in the packaging but NEVER use it. Unless you are driving a stupid amount of amps, 18/2 STRANDED is more than addiquit for your purposes. Homie D/Lowes has it by the foot-and always get more than you THINK you need. I LOVE tools but I have yet to find a "wire stretcher-lol.

 

27+ years as a low voltage technician, I know of what I speak.

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Hey Brian, electricity, not unlike water, will find the shortest route to ground. A Sparky's 1st rule, hence your problems. If poss, double up on the heat shrink, solder ur connections when at all possible (a true mechanical connection) and use dielectric grease(moisture protection)on ALL ur spade & terminal connectors.

 

I'm not sure what the speaker mfgr's are thinking when including that 24 Guage @!*%e wire they throw in the packaging but NEVER use it. Unless you are driving a stupid amount of amps, 18/2 STRANDED is more than addiquit for your purposes. Homie D/Lowes has it by the foot-and always get more than you THINK you need. I LOVE tools but I have yet to find a "wire stretcher-lol.

 

27+ years as a low voltage technician, I know of what I speak.

 

Bunchie,

 

I respect the years you have in low voltage electrical work. I've worked that field myself in the past so I still pay some attention to what goes on there. For years, I would have agreed with you about soldering the connections. One of my best friends was telling me recently though that he does very little soldering anymore. MILSPEC is now for a proper crimp connection. Reason being that the dissimilar metals between the solder and wire react different to heat and vibration over time. The key to the crimp is the proper tools, it isn't just a flat crimp.

 

Take it for what it is worth.

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From what I've read, a home-gamer can solder better than he/she can crimp, but a professional with the right tools can make a crimp that's better than a solder joint. I'm not a professional with the right tools, so I solder/shrink wrap and haven't had any issues with it.

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Gentlemen, granted the next generation of mechanical connections/crimping tools do an exceptional job, I, as a NONrecovering tool junkie, have a hard time justifying the cost of a lot of these types of tools/fittings because of the limited use Victor Average will use the damn thing. And I can honestly say I haven't seen a decent solder job fail. My perspective....

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Ford said that a solder with shrink tube or a properly crimped connection with shrink tube were both approved repair methods.

 

Personally, I always crimp, because it's quick and I can never find my solder gun when I need it.

 

They used to make a crimp connection that would slide over a solder joint.

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