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Rear diff replacement:a '99 into a '02. Potential issues?


Bunchie
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So here's the story: bought a '02 LE yesterday for a $1K. It has catastrophic rear passenger axel failure: believe the retaining clip in the pumpkin failed and the entire axel/brake drum/wheel assy has walked out and now right side rear looks like a dragster-lol. I suspect now that the axel shaft splines are roached. so I found a complete '99 rear end assy for $200 on CL.

 

MY QUESTION IS AS FOLLOWS: did Nissan make any changes in the rear end specs between'99 & '02 that I need to worry about; like gearing, to be specific????

 

Overall the body is in great shape-better than Marvin(my 1st & current R50), it's got the LE rims I've always wanted and an Alpine touch screen stereo completely set up w/sub woofer connections(Bonus). It does a few other issues-AC/heater fan, drivers window no worky and the beige (AACK) leather front seats are toast, These issues are minor as I'm a low voltage electrician & good fixer of broken s#it.

 

The plan is to fix the '02-henceforth to be known as "Goldy", and use it for my day to day needs, so that total upgrade work can commence on Marvin. Yeah, personal injury insurance settlements!

 

Good people, I need yer expertise and insight. Much thanx in advance.

 

Chher, Victor.

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There are two gearing options available, 4.363 and 4.636. You can check which you have by reading a plate with info on the passenger (right, I'm American) of the firewall in the engine bay if I remember correctly. otherwise they should be the same. Others on here know axles better than I do though, so hopefully they'll chime in.

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Very easy to pull the axle shaft assembly out. Just need to undo the parking brake cable, brake hose, and 4 nuts. No retaining clips on the axle...the axle shaft presses into the wheel bearing and there's a large retaining nut that's supposed to keep everything from backing out. Chances are that the axle shaft is toast because the large nut will have stripped off (and the splines may be damaged, too, but I bet they're okay).

 

The entire axle shaft assembly will direct swap over. Just stick with same side of the vehicle (right for right).

 

If you need pics for reference, let me know.

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Thanx gentleman, mjoTB: what if the complete rear end is out of vehicle? Guess I have do it the old fashioned way by counting the revolutions of the diff yoke, hey?

 

Hawarirish: plan is to swap whole rear end and trailing arms as one unit. The replacement unit's probably got north of 220 K on it, so end bushings, etc should be replaced. So as Ill have the truck in the air to begin with why not swap the one w/catastrophic failure to something, for a few hundred bucks that is, at least, intact and will have new "Anti Death Wobble" bushings.

 

The body is almost mint and as an occational use vehicle, it will tide me over til Marvin's upgrades are complete. The wife likes driving my PF and may consider swapping her '08 Sentra for a nice looking 2002 PF if I polish it up all real perdylike and fix the misc little fails it has.

 

BOTH of you: any preference between the split or the solid TA bushing??

 

Cheers, V

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I can't say anything about the bushing since I haven't done anything other than a lift with my rear end yet, but as for the gearing in the 'new' rear end I don't know of any way to check without the donor vehicle. Sorry. I guess you'll have to count.

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Might be easier to pull the diff and check the ring gear for ratio markings ("48:11" or "51:11"), but otherwise there's only a 6% (22.5°) difference between the ratios. Hold one drum stationary when checking revolutions.

 

The whole axle might not be a 100% swap over...96-99 models had a different shock mount setup than 00-04. Beyond that, they're identical.

 

I think you'd save yourself a lot of work and just swap over the axle shaft assembly you need. Either way, it'd be good to pull the diff, inspect the gears, change the fluid, and change the oil seals (for sure the one on the side that came out).

 

As for bushings, probably no difference performance wise, but splits will be easier to install. Though, the catch is that a floor press or large vise is sometimes required for either. You could bash it with a mini sledge, but beware the rebound.

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Correction on the year of the donor rear end:2000 not '99. I'll get the former owner to get me that engine bay tag info tomorrow then go check out buddy's "donor" in hopes of a match. Thanx for heads up on "holding one drum stationary" tip. Will advise of outcome of findings. V

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Split it is then. Status quo decided, I Thank & Goldy thanx you.

 

Got an 01, lined up, June built, wreck, gold no less, complete rear end+arms removed-properly, carpet, armrest topper, and what ever else needed I can think of for $500 CAN. Set up for the weekend pickup. S#it be happenin peeps! 5 days of SUN minimum and it's a weekend in a day!!

 

Therapy Thursday was a success. Took psrwshr to Goldy's location. 3 shovel's full of beach sand and tree droppings later.

 

I AM GETTING TOO OLD TO WORK ON DIRTY VEHICLES. Especially fine sand...dropin yer face, pissing you off...I digress.

 

Top & bottom cleaned, p-oil on all the fasteners, and ready for disassembly. For a thousand $ turd, she polishes up pretty good. ☆

 

Bin takin pics on my phone..just gotta get Tapatalk app. Am starting a thread...currently in man cave on tablet...realizing it Friday now & I have 5 calls today...sigh.

 

Good night

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So little update: spent $450 today and got a completely intact LSD, trailing A arms recently rebuilt(MASSIVE BONUS), complete carpet, cat back exhaust, set of wheel lock nuts & driver, and a ton of other little needed parts, screwsns#it. The guys did an awesome job removing the lsd & exhaust! I'm SO happy with this latest purchase. It will make $1000 ride road ready in no time. Tomorrow wrenches and sockets be a spinnin!

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Stock but its just for my interm ride, Goldy. As long as she runs reasonably & doesn't strand me at the side of the road, I don't much care. Better than the 'half an exhaust' she came with-lol.

 

Worknweather has slowed me down but I got the rr end closer to its final destination and out of Marvin's cargo area. And pu'd a few more integral gaskets and fasteners today too.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update: got the old n broken one out and the "new to me" one in and all buttoned up. Also got the exhaust system in(broke 1 stud during disassembly but bought some OEM replacements-on Saturday's list), completely gutted and tossed that NASTY old interior and spent 2 entire evenings cleaning, correction scrubbing the entire inside of it w/screaming hot water, Mr Clean and a shop vac. It actually smells pleasant inside now. Last night I started reassembly of interior, rerouted the amp wiring, readying it for carpets n junk.

 

I DO have an issue w/the drivers window: no action at all. Not entirely sure if the switch is toasted or its the motor (BTW: Big difference between a '99 & a '02 window motor & switch: '99 has a 2 wire motor connection, '02 has a 6 wire. '99 switch is also much smaller in all aspects-the 11teen pin connector is the same though but nothing happened when I connected it and tried it-so I'm leaning towards the motor OR maybe the window is just STUCK, like the passenger one was... Most disappointed as I thought I was being clever grabbing the switch n motor assy from that '99 I got the interior out of.

 

Back at it on the weekend and hoping I don't get any call outs as I'm on call this weekend-lol.

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