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Please help won't start


Austinm20
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Okay so from the beginning when I originally bought the truck (around 2 and a half months) it was fine. Saw a slow leak of oil and changed the oil and filter(it wasn't screwed in all the way or something) and I was driving it down the highway doing probably 70 and it backfired and shut off completely. Now every time I start it, it tries to turn over but won't fire over completely I have no idea what to do as I have never had a problem with something just not starting and don't know where to look

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What year? Sounds like it could be a fuel problem. When you turn the key to the ON position, do you hear the fuel pump prime up? It'll sound like a faint whine, you have to really listen for it to notice.

 

 

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Edited by Backpacker
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Take the oil fill cap off and using a flash light look in the valve cover at the cam shaft. While looking at the cam shaft have someone crank the engine. Is the camshaft spinning?

 

 

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Okay sorry before hand I basically have no knowledge of motors at all. If my timing belt would have broken would I have seen it? Cuz I looked at all of my belts and they all seem to be there. Is it possible for it to have jumped timing somehow?

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Timing belt is behind covers on the front of the engine so you can't see it. Luckily, the engine in yours is a non-interference engine, so it should be okay. There are lots of instructions on here for replacing timing belts, if your mechanical at all.

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If the rotor's not moving when you crank it, the belt is stripped or broken, which is not good news. I'm pretty sure the VG33 is in fact interference--not by as much as the VG30, perhaps, but still enough to cause problems.

 

You say you don't know engines, so I'll try and lay this out simply. Inside the engine you've got pistons in the block and valves in the heads. Both move up and down in a carefully arranged pattern as the engine turns, synchronized by the timing belt (which, as Citron said, lives behind that black metal cover at the front of the engine). The engine is an interference design, which means that the top of the piston stroke is higher than the bottom of the valve travel--they occupy the same space at different times, sorta like traffic moving through an intersection. So long as the timing is right, nobody gets hurt. When the belt fails, though, a valve finds itself in the wrong place at the wrong time and gets clobbered by a piston.

 

My first step--if it was my rig--would be to slap a new belt on it and check for compression on all cylinders. If I was super lucky, I'd find that I was one of the very few people who've dodged a bullet and somehow escaped valve damage. More than likely, though, the test would show which cylinder had no compression, which would tell me which valve was bent, and thus which head to remove.

 

What you do to fix it depends on how mechanically inclined you are or how much your mechanic charges per hour. A bent valve requires a fair bit of teardown to replace. If you're paying by the hour, swapping the engine may be cheaper than fixing what you have.

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I have always read and thought it was non interference, based on internet knowledge, not personal experience. However, Slartibartfast is usually spot on, so I decided to do more research. It appears the vg33 in the quest minivan was the only non interference VG, the rest are all interference. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused, I am beginning to have very little trust of internet knowledge.

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Have the distributor checked, my 1998 was starting then dying after less than a min then wouldn't start at all, it seemed like a fuel issue until I ended up taking it in.

 

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I have always read and thought it was non interference, based on internet knowledge, not personal experience. However, Slartibartfast is usually spot on, so I decided to do more research. It appears the vg33 in the quest minivan was the only non interference VG, the rest are all interference. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused, I am beginning to have very little trust of internet knowledge.

To add to this, from everything I've found and seen the only difference is the valve reliefs are deeper for the quest/ villager to "make it" non-interference. Everything else is pretty much the same beside the obvious parts for the van layout.

 

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So sorry for your issues, hopefully you'll fix all of them soon. Please keep us updated if you fix your car. Cheers and stay strong!

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