Petercan1020 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Can someone tell me if I buy a hub the complete assembly does that come with inner and outer bearings or do I have to buy the inner bearing separate and does anybody know where I could get them cheap every place I see either that doesn't have one for an 02 Pathfinder or they want over 200 a piece. I know somebody's got to happen out there for 50 bucks or around that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChemExposure Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 primechoice imports some pretty cheap chinese hubs. Some have alright reviews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Why are you replacing the whole hub? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I don't see how it is possible that the "complete" hub comes with bearing already installed. Maybe the bearing races are already installed?? You're still gonna have to set the bearing with that weird socket that has two little raised areas. Heck maybe you already knew all of that.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I'm getting vibrations down there and I have a feeling that it may have done some damage to the hubs I figured I just replace them and I've never done bearings before so I don't know how they come if they come already installed in the hub or if I have to get each piece individually I'm about to change the ball joints and the inner and outer tie rods also I have to change my master cylinder cuz I'm not breaking properly and I'm getting a lot of vibration right after I changed my brake pads I just bought this car I figured the brake pedal was low because I needed pads so I put them on after I put them on I realize that my master cylinder was low so I added fluid and realize that it was leaking but what's weird is after I put the new brake pads on it's almost as if it made my rotors Warp luckily I didn't put the new rotors on it yet because I knew I had to get ball joints and everything else when I took off the tire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 Should I not get hugs and just get the bearings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Yeah man just get the bearings. Inner and outer for each hub your going to be working on. You're going to need some harbor freight punches. Or any punch that's not super hard because your going to be knocking the old races out and the new races in. Can't scar the new races or the bearings will wear out quickly. There are tools for knocking bearing races in but I swear a softish punch is all you need. If you've never done it before a bench vice would be awesome but I usually just use my feet to hold it still. Careful with your swing though if you hold it with your feet; you miss the right way and you'll be talking like a chipmunk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Do you know what tools exactly I need to pick up I don't know what you mean by punches also you said bearings and racers what's a racer. If you could tell me the exact punch I'll have to get from Harbor Freight I appreciate it I have never used one I'm guessing that come out easily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Any decent industrial supply house should be able to get you what you need. ALL good bearings have a part number that, more often than not, are universally cross referenced. I used to work in an ISH and virtually all bearing are made by a select number of quality manufacturers, SKF, for instance. Google "Bearing Suppliers" in your area and as long as you have that bearing number(should be on the outside face of the bearing), someone in ur area should be able to come up w/a qualitly replacement. Remember, automakers outsource a lot of generic, off the shelf parts bc they are readily available and much cheaper than making them themselves...every once in a while we'd have someone that would ask for a bearing that WAS one of those freak, dealer manufactured parts, but it wasn't very often. BTW I'm surprised no one has mentioned to use a brass drift-no risk of damage to critical surfaces. You are Stateside and you have our version of a "Guy's Store" in Harbour Freight(we have Princess Auto here in Canada). Before you replace the hubs-did you wreck them somehow??? and if so, wtf...HOW??? I would have to believe that you may have cooked the bearing itself and unless you horrified the inside of the hub somehow, dude save urself $$$ and simply replace the bearings. Beware of these 5 sequential letters: China. They DON'T have the quality control/standards, like we do over here. Dad told me years ago: NEVER buy cheap product unless you don't care about using it more than once. Sage wisdom to be sure!!! This website has a STUPID amount of information and a lot of folks happy to help with Q's. Cheers from the PNW!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Oh and simply search Youtube for what ur looking to do...there is ALWAYS someone who has posted a video on what ur looking to do...COMPLETE WITH PICTURES-LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) Bearing and race replacement is pretty straight forward. I would also consider replacement of ALL SEALS. CV axle outter seal and wheel bearing seals. The inner wheel bearing seal is a must as its removed to install the relevant bearing. Just be patient and leave plenty of time to do it. remember all the steps for removal and do them in reverse. Having a cell phone or video camera going to document the process for reference helps a lot during reassembly. I don't remember the entire process exactly, but what I used but is something like this: 17mm socket or wrench 19mm socket or wrench metric allen wrench set small punch c-clip pliers soft mallet or Hammer Philip's screw driver flat head screw driver bailing wire brake parts cleaner wheel bearing grease 2 bearing sets, 1 is a kit the other is 2 separate parts. bearing seals CV axle to hub seals 1) remove the wheel 2) remove the brake caliper and hang it with bailing wire off the spring or something close by so its not putting pressure on the hose 3)remove the wheel hub grease cap(assuming you haven't installed manual hubs) 4)remove the grease so you can see the C-clip holding the axle 5) remove the wheel hub nut by removing its locking plate with the philips screw driver, then rotate the nut counter clockwise until it comes off 5)grab brake rotor and gently pull or tap it towards tou until it and the hub come off together. outter wheel bearing will most likely fall out. 6)remove hub from brake rotor(optional but makes it easier to work with 7)pull seal from hub and remove inner bearing 8)with the outter face of the hub facing you, use punch to tap the inner race out. Be very careful and take your time, shifting taps from one side to the other to push the race out evenly. 9)flip the hub and do the same to the outter race. clean and degrease HAND LOAD NEW BEARINGS WITH GREASE. PACK THEM WELL. BE GENEROUS. THIS IS CRITICAL. 10)install the new races using old ones by placing new race in appropriate location, set the old race on top and tap evenly until its seated. 11)install inner bearing and wheel seal 12)Flip and install outter race. 13)reinstall the brake rotor and hub 14)slide new bearing packed w grease onto the spindle thread spindle nut on until the rotor wont turn and turn back 1/4 turn or until there is no play from thrusting rotor back and forth. 15)install spindle nut lock plate 16) install hub cap and brake cailper etc etc. Might have missed a few steps but that's the gist of it Edited January 25, 2017 by TowndawgR50 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Factory service manual says to... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleFR Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) So you shook tire up and down and it is for sure the wheel bearing? You could try just greasing and tightening them a tad. It fixed my driver side and was easy. I used a screwdriver and a light touch on a hammer. The stock hubs are just a chunk of steel, I don't think you could break one without a high speed come apart. The vibe could be a number of things, end links and a bad tire come to mind. Edited January 25, 2017 by LittleFR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 If you want to get technical this has everything you need to know. A magnetic base dial indicator is a very valuable tool for the DIY'r. Harbor freight might have one if not check www.Shars.com for affordable precision measurement tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 +1 on using the old race to install the new one. Removes the chance of nicking the new race with a punch. I preload my bearings a little differently than towndawg, but his way seems more reliable for someone that has never done bearings before. After you do a lot of them you can spin the rotor and feel for the proper preload. LittleFR is right. My bearings were loose on the pathfinder, I pulled them and they were in fine shape, so repacked them with grease, and reinstalled with the proper preload, and no problems now. After cleaning all the old grease out of the bearing, hold the inner race still and spin the bearing. If it feels gritty or doesn't spin smoothly, then replace it. Otherwise, pack it with grease and reuse. After you replaced the pads you noticed a leak on the master cylinder. The piston in the brake caliper has to be compressed when new pads are installed for the caliper to fit back over the rotor. When you compress the piston, it forces the fluid out and back into the master cylinder reservoir. Doing both sides can force enough fluid back that some spills out around the lid of the master cylinder reservoir. Then when you press the brake, fluid goes back to the caliper. This could account for both the leak, and the low fluid level. Sorry if you already knew all this, I just want to prevent you replacing parts that are still good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 What is a race I keep reading the term I don't know what race is 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TowndawgR50 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 A bearing race is a conical metal ring that the bearing rollers ride on 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Bearing: Race: Bearing driver kit you can rent from just about any parts store for $0 (you buy it with a refundable deposit): My recommendation before you dive into changing them is to spray off all the grease with some brake cleaner, then roll them by hand. If they feel jerky or rough, they should be replaced. HF has a cheap dial indicator for checking runout to see if your rotors are worn or warped. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Just for clarification, on the picture of the bearing, the inner smooth part is called the inner race, the picture of the race is the outer race. The rollers are the bearing, and the part that holds the bearings is the bearing cage. The outer race is the one that you drive in. Do not hammer on the inner race! The races are tapered, so pay attention to the orientation of the outer race when you remove it and put the new outer race in the same orientation. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Ty for answering a stupid ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 As far as the master cylinder there was no fluid in the mc didnt even look to check it when i bought car. I was in a rush to get on the road and it was cheap. Everything seemed ok but the low peddle i figured id just change pads add some fluid and id be good then after pads where done i notice no fluid in mc i added the next day i added again i. I notice the leak coming from mc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petercan1020 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 As far as the master cylinder there was no fluid in the mc didnt even look to check it when i bought car. I was in a rush to get on the road and it was cheap. Everything seemed ok but the low peddle i figured id just change pads add some fluid and id be good then after pads where done i notice no fluid in mc i added the next day i added again i. I notice the leak coming from mc. I do know how to do alot of things on car im pretty fast just im not a mechanic and never did certain things this web site is a savior. Money is tight. Im ordering everything i had parts i never got a chance to put on my other 02 like oil cooler seals and coil packs and plugs and cam and crank sensor. I drive alot about 250 to 500 miles a day so i tey to keep up on it i trust these cars i never broke down and if it acted up i oulled over ahut it off and started it again and was always able to get home to repair. This truck has oil leak bad mc,ball joints bearing bad tie rods and maybe bad rack and pinion or maybe its just ball joints in such bad shape not really jard jobs any of it but i had surgery on both arms forearms its hard for me to do things without help. And im playing catch up on bills since in hospital 8 months. And weather sucks in ny right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 No stupid questions. Everyone has to learn somehow, and what better way then asking questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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