rc_cola_j Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I most recently replaced both sway bar end linkages in November when I replaced most of my front end suspension parts. Now, two months later, they are worn and have a lot of play in them.....the left side rattles like crazy all the time. Now, this is actually the 3rd time I have replaced the links since I bought my Pathfinder, which is not too long ago. Every time it is because the part wears down and I develop a rattle in the front end. What is going on? Does anyone else have similar issues? Any theories as to why I may be wearing these links out so quickly? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 To clarify, November was the 3rd time. Next weekend will be the 4th. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Where did you buy parts from? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 X2 You should get greaseable aftermarket ones or get them from Nissan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleFR Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) I've had great luck out of the Moogs I ordered off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HPXLLS/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484976483&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pathfinder+moog+sway+bar+end+links I actually rebuilt my entire suspension off amazon. Even got OMEs I've had great luck out of the Moogs I ordered off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HPXLLS/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484976483&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pathfinder+moog+sway+bar+end+links I actually rebuilt my entire suspension off amazon. Even got OMEs Also if your anti away bar bushings are shot it could eat the end links. Very easy to change and cost like a nickel. Edited January 21, 2017 by LittleFR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Where did you buy parts from? Two times I got the parts from the local auto parts store where I live. This past November I ordered them off of Rock Auto. I ordered this latest set today directly from Nissan. X2 You should get greaseable aftermarket ones or get them from Nissan. The ones I have gotten from both the auto parts store and from Rock Auto have had greaseable joints....and, the last two times I have greased them regularly every time I have done an oil change....roughly once a month. It doesn't seem right that they are wearing so quickly. It also seems strange that it is usually the left side that goes more quickly than the right each time......the right one is wearing quickly too, but the left side is always going first. Is something out of alignment? Perhaps, but I had a full alignment done in November after the suspension work was done. The alignment went well. I'm not too knowledgeable (yet).....could my sway bar be the issue? Bent, worn out, not swaying enough ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I've not walked down this road personally yet but suspension parts have to be of high quality or you run in to these issues. My plan is to buy some 50A shore hardness polyurethane and redo my entire suspension with it, one part at a time. I'm not sure about longevity but I am confident it'll be better than the worst china has to offer from the local auto parts store. You know some stuff is just fine from the parts store but then there are things like suspension parts, bearings, cv axels, etc. which are better bought from a dealership or even an industrial supply store like Bearings and Drives. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 I've not walked down this road personally yet but suspension parts have to be of high quality or you run in to these issues. My plan is to buy some 50A shore hardness polyurethane and redo my entire suspension with it, one part at a time. I'm not sure about longevity but I am confident it'll be better than the worst china has to offer from the local auto parts store. You know some stuff is just fine from the parts store but then there are things like suspension parts, bearings, cv axels, etc. which are better bought from a dealership or even an industrial supply store like Bearings and Drives. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Have you come across any aftermarket sway bar links that may he of higher quality than even the genuine Nissan parts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I've had great luck out of the Moogs I ordered off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HPXLLS/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484976483&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pathfinder+moog+sway+bar+end+links I actually rebuilt my entire suspension off amazon. Even got OMEs Also if your anti sway bar bushings are shot it could eat the end links. Very easy to change and cost like a nickel. Moog is a decent brand. Even the cheapest auto parts store links you can find should last longer than that. +1 on checking the sway bar bushings. Also, have you done any suspension mods that may be contributing to the issue? Are you drifting around all the corners? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Do yourself a favor and grease the bushings before you install them. I use Sil-Glyde all the time and lasts a long time. It will keep the bushings from drying out, rubbing together and wearing prematurely. You may also be over or under tightening the nuts when you assemble them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Let us know when you figure out what is going on. I'm right behind you on this stuff man. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Do yourself a favor and grease the bushings before you install them. I use Sil-Glyde all the time and lasts a long time. It will keep the bushings from drying out, rubbing together and wearing prematurely. You may also be over or under tightening the nuts when you assemble them. Where do I find the correct torque specs for tightening? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 The service manual suggests 61-76 lb/ft for the nuts holding the end links in. If they were loose, or worked loose, that would certainly cause a rattle, but I suspect you would've noticed that when removing them. It does say to make sure the sockets aren't cockeyed before you run them down. I'm looking at SU-11 and SU-14 in the '03 manual, though, I'd want to double check with the right year before taking the torque specs as gospel. I have a hard time believing that you'd go through that many in that length of time if the only problem was cheap parts, especially since it doesn't sound like you've been using cheap parts. All I can figure then is installer error (maybe they don't come greased?) or something tweaked on the truck to where the links are binding and tearing themselves up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 The service manual suggests 61-76 lb/ft for the nuts holding the end links in. If they were loose, or worked loose, that would certainly cause a rattle, but I suspect you would've noticed that when removing them. It does say to make sure the sockets aren't cockeyed before you run them down. I'm looking at SU-11 and SU-14 in the '03 manual, though, I'd want to double check with the right year before taking the torque specs as gospel. I have a hard time believing that you'd go through that many in that length of time if the only problem was cheap parts, especially since it doesn't sound like you've been using cheap parts. All I can figure then is installer error (maybe they don't come greased?) or something tweaked on the truck to where the links are binding and tearing themselves up. Installer error is possible. I have changed 1 of 3 sets myself so far, twice it was the local mechanic. The original....the ones that were on there when I bought the Pathy had no grease nipples. The ones that have gone on since then have all had grease nipples I'm hoping to swap them out over the weekend with the ones ordered from the dealership on the mainland (I live on an island)....let's hope they get here by Friday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleFR Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I didn't torque mine. I just got them to Frank lbs which was however tight Little Frank could get them with a 3/8 ratchet. Unless you constantly drive in water they shouldn't need grease more than every 10k. I really would check those sway bar bushings out good with end links detached. My town was an island once. It flooded and there was no way in or out for 2 weeks. People were boating to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 I didn't torque mine. I just got them to Frank lbs which was however tight Little Frank could get them with a 3/8 ratchet. Unless you constantly drive in water they shouldn't need grease more than every 10k. I really would check those sway bar bushings out good with end links detached. My town was an island once. It flooded and there was no way in or out for 2 weeks. People were boating to work. Sounds like a beauty resort island. How were the trails? Bushings were changed out in November when the mechanic did the front end work. As I said, greased everything each time I've done an oil change (once a month....1600-2000km) Possible the sway bar is bent or torqued from something before I bought the car? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Why change the oil so often? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 Why change the oil so often? Because I have OCD. The previous owner had not done oil changes regularly. When I bought it, the oil was jet black, and most if not all of the breather hoses were packed full of carbon. The mechanic suggested monthly oil changes for a while afterwards.....I've just kept up the practice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citron Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Makes sense. I have heard of oil additives to clean out gunk buildup, but I have never used any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bunchie Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 SEAFOAM!!! Works great. OIL: 3000 M or 5000 K...and don't be afraid to go by color too. Darker it is, the more carbon its having to remove so change it when its dark, Otherwise Spend ur money on fuel-lol! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 SEAFOAM!!! Works great. OIL: 3000 M or 5000 K...and don't be afraid to go by color too. Darker it is, the more carbon its having to remove so change it when its dark, Otherwise Spend ur money on fuel-lol! I usually seafoam the oil about 200 Km before the oil change. The stuff works amazingly well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Installer error is possible. I have changed 1 of 3 sets myself so far, twice it was the local mechanic. The original....the ones that were on there when I bought the Pathy had no grease nipples. The ones that have gone on since then have all had grease nipples I'm hoping to swap them out over the weekend with the ones ordered from the dealership on the mainland (I live on an island)....let's hope they get here by Friday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Hopefully it resolves the problem. Aftermarket parts these days are junk I've found. Even moog. I was in Nanaimo and tofino in September, great spot you guys have out there! I even brought my pathy with me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Hopefully it resolves the problem. Aftermarket parts these days are junk I've found. Even moog. I was in Nanaimo and tofino in September, great spot you guys have out there! I even brought my pathy with me! I live on a tiny island on the east side of Vancouver island. But the big island is probably one of the greatest places to go off reading. I love getting over there and exploring all of the logging roads so much fun to be had I'm going to try the genuine Nissan links....if they fail quickly I've seen some "high quality" adjustable links online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onespiritbrain Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 If you don't mind, how much were the OEM ones? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc_cola_j Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 $90 Canadian....roughly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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