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Building an engine for the Turbocharged Pathfinder


snowboard419
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Cleaning up some of the cylinder head parts, letting them soak in solvent brushing scrubbing occasionally not really getting the clean I wanted. So I moved to a cheap Horrible Freight blaster gun, loaded with baking soda and it did wonders. Starting on the left is a lifter guide straight from the motor, middle is one that has been soaking in solvent for over a day and scrubbed, on the right is one that was soda blasted for about 60 seconds.

TaeRLE.jpg

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Make sure you take your time and get the lifters checked out and primed properly.

 

Going with new lifters, I started trying to overhaul a few and it was a PITA so I ordered new ones, less than 10 bucks each. Im going to mic them before I install because one of the guys here had some new ones seize up because they were a touch large.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update: Cylinder heads are installed on the block and torqued to spec. Finally got a chance to use the angle setting on the torque wrench I purchased a few years ago. Next is cams/rockers/lifters. And soon pulling the engine out of the 95. I have already removed most of the accessories, alternator, ps pump, fan, radiator, turbo, etc. Im down to the timing components and balancer pulley all of which I need to pull for the new motor.

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What were your main bearing clearances? Did you check your oil pump too? Also you are using a turbo oil pump?

 

The main clearances ended up at approx .003-.0035ish , just using plastiguage so not super precise, a little wider than I would like its on the far side of spec. I opened up the two oil pumps I had laying around and promptly threw them in the scrap pile and ordered a new one, just stock pump but I will install an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things.

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  • 1 month later...

Looks like you have been busy and you're doing a good job. I put about 10k miles also on the ebay turbo so there is a total of 20k miles on it. Honesty for running 12 psi of boost it is doing fine. I got 60k miles on a Subie engine running 22 psi of boost with an ebay turbo (20g flavor).

 

A factory non turbo oil pump should be plenty for you setup. There are no oil squirter in the non-turbo block and the turbo doesn't require that much oil.

Photos from 5 years ago

IMGP3166_zps2jz2hl9q.jpg

 

IMGP3167_zpswzfrwju2.jpg

 

IMGP3171_zpsegtknoxx.jpg

 

Try to find a more stout clutch/pressure plate. The stock replacement did not cut the mustard at 12 psi of boost and in high gear.

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BTW good call on adding the 10 mm exhaust studs.

It was tough to get to the intercooler hoses, hopefully you don't have to remove them.
IMGP2371.jpg

 

You'll need to remove the tranny/transfer case first and then remove the engine. The engine doesn't move forward because of the front differential (and that is a pain to remove).

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I just came in from getting the timing belt installed and adjusted. I have been thinking about an upgraded clutch due to what you said about it starting to slip at higher boost. I was able to remove the engine from my 91 automatic without having to mess with the trans or transfer case too much so we will see soon. And the intercooler piping I have pulled so far has not given too much trouble.

 

And it also looks like you had that thing cleaned up really nice when you did the turbo so I may be able to put another engine together for my 91 without much extra investment and have two good running pathfinders.

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With an auto, you only need to move the engine forward around an inch. With a manual you need to move the engine forward about 6 inches.

BTW when I was first experimenting with boost levels I broke a couple of ring lands when I turned up the boost to 18 psi. I found a rebuild engine in Vail and purchased it. That is why the engine is so clean.

Edited by 2milehi
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have the fuel rails installed and leak tested, looks like the fuel pressure regulator has been adjusted to around 50-60 psi via testing with my air compressor regulator so not sure if its accurate. I got some new gates fuel line to replace all the rubber sections. I also have a new stage 2 clutch in the mail that should be here soon. The only thing I need now is time to actually do the swap. And I also need to get a wideband o2 for tuning but that is going to have to wait for a bit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have everything I need in place for the swap. I hauled the 95 home so I can have some time to work with it. I have got the front diff pulled, and hope to have the old engine out by sunday. dd772247856561bdc90824c2c08b17ec.jpga870a26dbf33ec1314ab6a59c3ea9bbf.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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So the old engine is out, I have to swap a few parts around,install the clutch. And might have to re seal the transmission.

 

I also found the failure in the blown up engine.

 

Take a guess, I will post the pics of the carnage later this evening. If you can also guess the cyl number you get bonus points

 

Sent from the twilight zone

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Thanks for posting. I was guessing #6 because it was the furthest from the oil pump. I kinda looks like the rod bolt failed, popped out, and the rest is history.

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Thanks for posting. I was guessing #6 because it was the furthest from the oil pump. I kinda looks like the rod bolt failed, popped out, and the rest is history.

 

Yeah, people boost the VG all the time and never have issues. Could have even been a problem that was there forever, but was exaggerated by the turbo.

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So the turbo should be fine as long a the piston didn't blow apart. The heads should be good on the blown up engine, just clean out the oil passages really good.

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So the turbo should be fine as long a the piston didn't blow apart. The heads should be good on the blown up engine, just clean out the oil passages really good.

I have not tore it down any further than the oil pan but it looks like the block, and heads survived. Hell the crank only has one ding in a counterweight, it might even live to see another day. And with all of the parts I now have laying around my 91 wont have to wait too long for an engine either. I could damn near pull that one head, swap a piston out and put the thing back together, but that might be a bit on the risky side.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the turbo should be fine as long a the piston didn't blow apart. The heads should be good on the blown up engine, just clean out the oil passages really good.

 

FOD is the worst. I melted pistons a few different times in my subaru. Timing was right as a ported turbo had just come up when I needed one, hah!

 

Love this build, but think you're(original turbo'er) crazy for turning the boost up enough to blow engines in a Pathfinder. Removing the engine is such a chore I couldn't imagine. I've had to do it in my subaru a few times but it's cake.

 

As far as wideband, get an AEM. They're cheap and reliable and don't need to be calibrated. Come with a few different faceplates for whatever look you're going for as well. That fuel pressure sounds a bit high. At least if it's base pressure! How is fuel turned up while in boost? If it's a rising rate you need to consider that with your base fueling. Example: IF your rising rate has a 6:1 rise, every 1psi, your fuel pressure would rise 6psi. If your base pressure is 60psi, and you're running 12psi. 12*6 is 72 + your 60 base for a total of 132psi of fuel pressure. I know my subaru's injectors shut down around 90psi, they can't handle it. Just food for thought so you don't blow the next one!

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The good, the bad, the ugly and the good.

 

 

The good... engine is installed, hooked up and ready to go.

 

The bad... after much cranking, priming, doing every thing I can I don't have any oil pressure.

 

The ugly... this is my brand spanking new oil pump

 

The good... nothing else seems to be damaged.97cb01b8f7ccc9587e08bf5696e4e343.jpg

 

Sent from the twilight zone

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