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This truck won't run!


Gyropath
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I think the problem may be simpler. If the cat really got red hot, you probably damaged the o2 sensor. This is used by the ecu to adjust the air/fuel ratio. A failed one will cause idling, running issues. You can use a multi meter to check it. On this vehicle it is probably a two wire sensor. You can ohm it to see if it is still good. The FSM should tell you the ohm spec. If it ohms out, check for voltage on the voltage reference wire. Check out put on the signal return wire. Do both by backprobbing the connector. It is case grounded, so verify a good ground by phoning from the sensor body to the exhaust pipe. Proper diagnoses of sensors before replacement will save lots of money and frustration. Hope this helps.

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The O2 sensor on one of these is three-wire, and if you have small hands or don't mind pulling the passenger's seat, you can check its operation from the ECU. Or, like with the MAF, you can just unplug it and see if the engine runs better guessing at its mixture than it did listening to the sensor.

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True, but that only tells you the condition of the whole o2 sensor circuit. If either check you described pointed to the o2 sensor circuit, you still need to verify if it is the sensor or something further down the line in the wiring and/or ecu. It would be very lame to change the sensor based on on of these checks, then have the same problem because a wire was loose in a connector further down.

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Ok guys- what most likely went wrong today with my truck? Started it and it ran as typical for maybe 30 seconds. After it died, it would not even turnover, no starter click, nothing. Power is fine, lights work, dash lights, etc. I have had starter turning over for extended periods at times in this process and thinking it's been hard on the starter, but wondering if there would be a relay, or fuse that would likely burn out first. Checked the battery ground and 2 strap ground cables. The ignition switch was replaced awhile back when it locked up so thinking its not a likely culprit. Anybody have time saving advice for this issue?

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Easiest check is always the fuse. The owners manual will tell you what fuse/relay is associated with the start circuit. if all the fuses are good then start diagnoses on the system. Do you have a multimeter? Should be three lugs on the starter coil. Two big ones and a small one. The small one is from the ignition start circuit. use your meter to measure voltage on that lug while someone has the ignition in the start position. If no voltage there, then the problem is in the ignition start circuit. If there is voltage, then verify battery voltage on the large lug that runs up to the battery. If you have voltage there, then check voltage on the other large lug while someone turns the key to start. That will tell you if the coil is switching or not. There should be battery voltage on both large lugs with the key in start. I imagine it is not switching since you hear nothing. If it is not switching, you can verify the coil is bad by removing the wire from the small lug, and ohming from the small lug to the starter body. I am not sure what a good Nissan coil should read, but it should be fairly high. Sorry I can't be more specific, I am unfamiliar with these vehicles, I was trained on Fords. Let us know what you find. Hope this helps.

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Jacked er up to have a look under the truck-the starter is not in a real friendly location. I opened wire shielding down below at frame and poked a test light into the main power cable, got light. Got light in black/pink wire when key in start position. Battery showed 11.8 when I checked it earlier. A booster makes no difference. Looks like I need to remove the oil filter to get to the actual starter connections. Feels like there may be some type of fusible link or such up behind the oil filter? It seem this truck may have had a remote starter on it at some time (little sticker says so), so my hope is that is not having any affect on the problems. Any ideas short of pulling the oil filter to access the connections?

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If you are getting battery voltage on the big cable, and you have voltage on the small wire that lands on the small starter lug with the key in start, then you have everything you need for the starter to function. There should not be a fusible link in that wire heading to the starter. I would try to verify that all of the connections are tight on the starter, but at this point, it sounds like it is the starter coil that is bad. Removing the tire and removing the little flexible plastic piece in the wheel well may give access to the starter. Since you have voltage on the small lug at the starter, then it wouldn't be an auto start causing the problem. Those usually intercept the wire under the dash. Sorry I can't give you wire colors, I don't have a wiring diagram, and I can't walk out to my pathfinder and look because I am on vacation.

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I've heard of too many guys replacing the starter, and then finding out it wasn't the starter, to rush into it. Patience is a virtue! And saves money. Seems like an oil change is coming if I want to get at those starter connections-sure won't hurt it.

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Yeah, got burned with my Pathfinder. Spent 3 hours changing the starter, luckily I got a good deal on a re-manufactured starter so I was only out 50 bucks. It was the starter cut out relay next to the battery. I think its only on manuals though.

 

Also, another note on not wasting money, go to Nissan for the relays, the aftermarket ones are junk. Mine went out after 3 months, took it apart to see what was up, and the thing was just an ISO relay soldered to a circuit board to re-route the contacts to the OE locations. That wasn't really the problem, they just didn't put any sort of silastic or even hot glue to hold the pins in place, so all the solder joints broke.

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Ok guys- what most likely went wrong today with my truck? Started it and it ran as typical for maybe 30 seconds. After it died, it would not even turnover, no starter click, nothing. Power is fine, lights work, dash lights, etc. I have had starter turning over for extended periods at times in this process and thinking it's been hard on the starter, but wondering if there would be a relay, or fuse that would likely burn out first. Checked the battery ground and 2 strap ground cables. The ignition switch was replaced awhile back when it locked up so thinking its not a likely culprit. Anybody have time saving advice for this issue?

 

There is a relay next to the battery or in front of the windshield washer tank (can't recall which one goes where) that may be at fault. I tap on mine with a screwdriver although that requires a second person trying to start the truck _while_ you do that. I would be on those before I took a 3 hour run at that damn starter. JMHO!!

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Great advice. I don't have enough experience with pathfinders to know where cut-out relays are located. However, unless it is wired differently then I am thinking, the fact that he is getting power on the coil wire for the starter solenoid would mean that the relay on the firewall was functioning. If that relay had failed, then no power would be at the solenoid, correct? It is hard without a wiring diagram to look at.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe....

He used a light to check for voltage at the starter solenoid. So hard to say if threshold voltage to activate it really is there. Not sure what was meant by booster but I thinking maybe he tried to jump the solenoid directly from the battery ? If that didn't work then its either the starter, starter solenoid or bad power wire or bad connection from the power wire to the starter.

 

I had the typical starter issues that these trucks are prone to and used a jumper directly from the battery to the solenoid. (After replacing the starter at least twice and still getting the same intermittent no crank situation) This worked well and always turned the starter over. Course you have to open the hood and touch the wire to the battery everytime you need to start the vehicle. Works well with one person if you have an automatic. Probably need someone to depress the clutch in a manual trans. Then I came across a starter relay mod somewhere in this forum that solved the problem (which seems to be caused primarily by old wiring)

 

If memory serves the basic premise is this: the ignition signal is used to activate a relay (which requires much less voltage to activate) the relay then allows direct battery voltage to the starter solenoid. I've had no more intermittent starting issues since doing this. But I still keep the jumper wire attached just in case ;)

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I need to jump in here real quick. I am watching this thread because I am having a very similar issue with my pathfinder. Same problem description only difference is, when mine starts it won't idle long, like it runs out of gas on its own. And if I touch the gas pedal while it isn't idling, it just stumbles and dies right away.

 

 

Just did the FSM procedure to check the tps. I failed out on the first step. No voltage on terminal C to ground. And ideas with that ???

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I need to jump in here real quick. I am watching this thread because I am having a very similar issue with my pathfinder. Same problem description only difference is, when mine starts it won't idle long, like it runs out of gas on its own. And if I touch the gas pedal while it isn't idling, it just stumbles and dies right away.

 

 

Just did the FSM procedure to check the tps. I failed out on the first step. No voltage on terminal C to ground. And ideas with that ???

Sounds exactly like mine except my TPS seems to be working fine
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The booster referred to is my battery charger/booster. Used it a few times to get er turning faster. Haven't tried direct starter hook up yet. Been sidetracked with work and hunting, but did try tapping on multiple relays under-hood, as son held key in start position, without any luck. I also remember somebody had converted my earlier 95 to a push-button start, but never investigated as to why.

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I did some troubleshooting on mine just now. I realized I was checking the wrong wire on the TPS. So I checked it correctly and I do have voltage. So, same problem as Mr.Gyropath.

 

I checked and I don't have any codes.

 

I checked and coolant temp sensor. FSM says 2.5ohms , I have like 3.6ohms is my temp sensor bad?

 

A new symptom showed up today, I turned the key on and the ECCS relay went crazy, opening and closing very rapidly. Sounded like a bumble bee. I just so happened to have 2 spare relays sitting there and I swapped them out as this was happening and all three did the same thing.

 

I really am lost with this thing.

Edited by MrFML
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update on mine.

 

I replaced the coil and water temp sensor. Still wouldn't start. I unplugged the MAF and it fired right run and ran. Plugged it back in and it wouldn't start. So I guess I found my problem!

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