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Flooded engine help


Charlie_Brown
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That is where you are losing me, if the lifters can't hold the oil pressure and collapsed then wouldn't that just need a new set of lifters and possibly (wear depending) rocker arms?

Sure it would. But if the lifters have been damaged like that, so have the bearings, cylinder walls, etc. Did you do the compression test? There is no use putting any time or money into it until that is done.

 

The bearings are a lot less tolerant to oil starvation than the lifters.

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Theoretically, yes. But, if something caused the lifters to fail so catastrophically, then other bits in the engine are probably damaged as well.

 

Hydraulic lifters, as equipped in a pathfinder, use oil pressure to keep them lifting, so to speak. If you lose oil pressure, they will collapse. So,either you aren't building oil pressure, which is basically worst case scenario, or you have excessive wear from water in the oil, as water is not a lubricant and allowed the lifters to wear excessively. If your lifters are worn because of the water, its a safe assumption to think that many other things have also worn due to lack of lubrication, yes?

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Does it sound like my Xterra in this video?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxSVaKenVvE

 

If so, you got issues.

Idle on my 92 is smooth, doesn't fluctuate like your xterra did in the video. Ticking yes though that's a given.

 

I have not done anything to the truck yet, I work away from home so I won't be back to it till the weekend. Planning on doing a compression test before tearing anything apart

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Theoretically, yes. But, if something caused the lifters to fail so catastrophically, then other bits in the engine are probably damaged as well.

 

Hydraulic lifters, as equipped in a pathfinder, use oil pressure to keep them lifting, so to speak. If you lose oil pressure, they will collapse. So,either you aren't building oil pressure, which is basically worst case scenario, or you have excessive wear from water in the oil, as water is not a lubricant and allowed the lifters to wear excessively. If your lifters are worn because of the water, its a safe assumption to think that many other things have also worn due to lack of lubrication, yes?

Very true. Thank you for putting that into perspective for me.

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Idle on my 92 is smooth, doesn't fluctuate like your xterra did in the video. Ticking yes though that's a given.

 

I have not done anything to the truck yet, I work away from home so I won't be back to it till the weekend. Planning on doing a compression test before tearing anything apart

 

That isn't the idle, its just the camera from my old cell. It idled smooth but half the cylinders only had 70lbs of compression. It burned oil like a mother#$!&er but that's another story.

Edited by adamzan
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"standard" in the manual is 175psi if I remember correctly. Minimum is around 120. Maximum difference between cylinders is 14. They could all be at 120 and it would still run perfectly fine. Its the difference between cylinder where problems start.

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Was able to get home early from work today and perform a compression test. All spark plugs excluding bank 2 and 4 were in perfect condition as expected with brand new plugs with only a total of 20 hours drive time on them max. 2 and 4 had huge carbon build up.

 

Compression testing also showed each bank, again excluding 2 and 4 had 150psi. Bank 2 had 110 and when adding oil into it, it jumped up to 130 so I'm guessing a ring. Bank 4 had 80 psi, adding oil for the fun of it jumps barely 90 psi. Thinking bent valve which I was dreading.

 

Going to try to go to junkers next time I am free and pull parts for replacement valve. If that doesn't fix my issue and it goes back to piston or cylinder then engine swap it is I'm thinking

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Yeah, if it were rings, you'd get it up to almost perfect. My X when i put oil in the cylinder it went from 70 to 150... I'd say you have a bent valve for sure. Could always just get a used head from the wreckers, get it checked, and slap it on. You'd have to pull it to change the valves anyway.

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A little off topic I know but how do you like the xterras? I've always heard they were the rebirth of the pathy.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing and getting a lifter and rocker arms assembly while I'm at it off a truck if nothing else for extra parts.

 

Awesome suggestion, i didnt even think of that. I'll have to pick up the attachment :)

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More than 10% difference across the cylinders is not good. If you have four sitting at 150, the lowest you want is 135, so that one at 110 is bad. 80 is extra bad. Adding oil would increase the compression even with a bent rod. So I wouldn't rule out a bent rod yet as that's more likely than the valve. The valves were closed when the piston came up to compress your water/fuel mixture, its already been said but, water doesn't compress and that pressure has to go somewhere!

 

A leak down test will determine if it's the valves (leak down test leaks) or if it's a rod (leak down test does not leak).

Edited by silverton
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A little off topic I know but how do you like the xterras? I've always heard they were the rebirth of the pathy.

 

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing and getting a lifter and rocker arms assembly while I'm at it off a truck if nothing else for extra parts.

 

Awesome suggestion, i didnt even think of that. I'll have to pick up the attachment :)

 

rebirth sorta. Shares the same chassis code. 87-95 Pathfinders are WD21, and the first gen X is a WD22. They're leaf sprung in the back so they don't wheel quite as nicely, but it makes them better tow vehicles. Also, they're big. I've wheeled with a couple and I usually stare in awe. Body armor is a must.

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I like mine but you can tell the quality is not as good. Various brackets in the engine bay rust quickly, compared to the wd21 ones that still have no rust after 22 years. Interior quality is meh, the seats are not that comfy, but the center console with cup holders is nice. I have the supercharged version. I could not stand to drive the NA version as the truck is heavier than the pathy so the extra power makes it fun to drive.

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Damn I'm really hoping I get lucky with valves and lifters rather than having a bent rod. That much of a tear down is pretty much a rebuild.

I'll perform a leak down test asap after buying the attachment. At least they are not *too expensive.

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I find the ride is actually better, but then again I'm pretty sure the t-bars are softer and there is no tension rod bull@!*% to deal with.

 

The square headlight ones are 170hp while the round have 180hp, with the SC have 220hp.

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Just an update so yall dont thibk i abonded the ol' girl

Well I went to pick and pull today to get the head assembly form a 91. Man yall didn't warn me that I would have to take off every damn thing! Haha I couldn't believe how much is attached just to get them off. I ran out of time getting the second head under the I take manifold so I'll be back tomorrow to get that along with a few other things like some nerf bars till I get rock sliders.

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Maybe a good check is to rotate your engine with the heads off and measure the distance each piston is recessed into the block. If you have one that doesn't come up as far, you probably have a bent rod. Heck, if you have the heads off already, you're more than halfway to be able to replace a rod. Good luck.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I tore apart the engine and I'm a little confused. Both heads are off and I looked at the valves, no light shown through when putting a flashlight up to it and they were all closed after loosening the rocker arms assembly. So it seems to me that they are not bent

 

My cylinders all looked fine just had a build up of carbon on all but two, one thing however is grooves were on one of the cylinders indicating some form of wear. If I bent a piston rod however wouldn't the engine seized and not work?

 

No cracked pistons, no light through valves, lifters seem fine and hold oil so what the he'll is causing the knock and terrible run?

 

I'm about to just throw a new engine at this truck if I can get one for cheap that or look into long block short block

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Those wrap around the piston right? That's what I'm guessing is scratching the cylinder.

 

I don't understand how that creates a knock however instead of a grinding. Also not sure how I would lose so much power when it is just one cylinder.

 

Looks like I need to do more research in the matter, I'm way passed my engine knowledge :/

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