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1991 Z24 ignition/battery wiring damage.


Meatsac
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Yet another complication.

Alternator died.
New one in charging fine but something is definitely fried.

Battery light now is permanent. Key no longer kills the car, having to use killswitch instead.

This is not that much of an issue, although i would like to be able to tell if my battery does stop charging etc.

I have replaced some obviously burned out wires in the engine bay to no avail. Now i guess i must go into the front quarter and have a look. Just wandered if anyone knew of any in line fuses or anything that could be the issue, and weather i can get at them through the dash instead of taking off the quarter panel.

 

Thnaks agian for any help.

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As far as I can tell is ok. Not got avoltmeter atm though. Last time I checked I was only getting power to the left hand side of the main relay by the battery. Would that indicate fusible link? It was at a garage who said they could keep working on it as long as my wallet was botgomless so I had to decline.

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Ok so what is happening when you turn the key, can you hear a clicking or buzz noise from fuel pump? Battery light should illuminate when you turn key to ON and go off when it starts.

Sometimes problems occur when people install new alternators but they forget the bad wiring, then they go ahead and connect the old worn wiring and it craps out again. So then person who installed the alternator is in the belief it's the alternator that is faulty when it's the wiring that is having problems from being shifted around or unearthed properly while the old alternator was removed/reinstalled.

Check the earth cable from your neg battery post too. It goes down to a bokt on the fender in there. Take the bolt out clean up with wire brush and tighten back up, then the wire goes to the engine block on the side, again same thing, wire brush under the bolt making a metal to metal connection. Then I believe there's an earth connection at the rear of the engine if you can see it with an angled mirror or something.

Or maybe the battery is just plain dead or has a bad cell. No amount of trickle charging is gonna fix that.

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Battery is a week old. Exactly that happened with the garage installing two alternators before giving up. When I turn the key, the battery light comes on, it starts and runs fine but the light won't go out. Turn the key off and take it out doesn't stop the engine. Luckily there is a kill switch installed. I'll do the earths and maybe change the fusable link. Brown wire feels a bit rubbery. Thanks for the advice.

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Fusible link wire is supposed to feel rubbery it's designed like that. Mechanic showed me when mine fried if the wire snaps when you stretch it then it's fried. Fusible link wire should not easily snap when you try to stretch it.

As for the engine 'running on' after turning the key off, this sounds fuel pump related to me.

Battery = Check volts 12.5-12.6 at rest

Alternator = Check wiring on back of it.

Spark plugs = Check gaps are correct

Fuel pump is next on the list.

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Sounds possible. The killswitch was installed well befor i broke it, presumably because they are pretty easy truck to break into. This issue has only been since the alternator was installed by local garage.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok so stil working on this and not getting anywhere really. at least i have a multimeter and a suspected culprit.

 

Here is a picture of the relay that the above nissan 720 article is relating to (BTW if anyone has a FSM for a non injected Z24 i would really appreciate it).

 

15078959_10154557327492184_5462524117575

 

I measured the voltage in at all the ignition positions and came back with this

 

Colour Running (v) On (v) Accessory (v) Off (v)

White -0.02 0 0 0

White Red 15.4 12.6 12.6 12.6

Yellow 15.4 12.6 12.6 12.6

White Black 0.34 <10* 12.6 12.6

White Blue 0.38 <10* 12.6 12.6

Black 15.4 12.6 12.6 12.6

 

* these numbers were continually running down, should have checked them before i started it but i didnt.

 

I checked continuity from the white wire to the ignition switch at it was ok.

below is the diagram, presumably of the same relay but in a 720 as that is what the article referred to.

2238132_f520.jpg

My electronics are all working fine except for 2 things:

1)Most of the time the key won't shut off the engine. I have to bring it to bite point, turn off the key and then hit a killswitch (that i have no idea how it functions)

2)Battery light is always on in while the engine is running.

 

If anyone can help point me in the right direction towards fixing either of these i will be eternally grateful. Thanks Terranovation for setting me on the right path.

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