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removing rear sway bar brackets


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Hello all

 

I am trying to take off my rear upper control arms but the sway bar bracket is in the way of the front bolt head on each side. What are the chances of those bolts breaking off in the frame? They look pretty rusted. Has anyone been able to do this?

 

Thanks in advance,

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If you are really concerned about the bolts breaking off, could you just leave the bracket on and remove the upper control arms using a couple of open ended wrenches? It would take a really long time and be a PITA, but it would avoid the possibility of this issue... Maybe if you had a picture of how rusty the area is so we can get a better idea of how much of a risk it would be?

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I had to remove mine once before (I was replacing the sway links; needed to bring the while thing inside and use a hacksaw) and it came off just fine. In fact, mine's a Michigan vehicle and is a lot rustier. I would think you should be fine, but of course there is always a risk.

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I had to remove mine to get to the trailing arm bolts...but rust isn't an issue at all on mine.

 

On a side note, if you're replacing the trailing arm hardware with OE bolts, you'll probably discovered that the bolt on the driver's side, lower link, upper end will interfere with the bracket if you put it back the way it came out. Just a heads up...you can probably insert the bolt the other direction. In my case, I had already torqued it down and wasn't about to redo that. Out came the Dremel...

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I had to remove mine to get to the trailing arm bolts...but rust isn't an issue at all on mine.

 

On a side note, if you're replacing the trailing arm hardware with OE bolts, you'll probably discovered that the bolt on the driver's side, lower link, upper end will interfere with the bracket if you put it back the way it came out. Just a heads up...you can probably insert the bolt the other direction. In my case, I had already torqued it down and wasn't about to redo that. Out came the Dremel...

 

When I was at the dealer the bolts they gave me were two different sizes. I used a grinding disc to get the lower arm bolts off on the rear. When I put the arms back on (pressed the bushings in myself) the bolts had clearance all around. They didn't seem to be the same size as what was on there (factory original), longer in fact.

 

I was wondering if I could put the bolts in the other direction on the top? The FSM specifically shows direction of the bolt. I believe I wouldn't have to touch that bracket if so.

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I had to remove mine once before (I was replacing the sway links; needed to bring the while thing inside and use a hacksaw) and it came off just fine. In fact, mine's a Michigan vehicle and is a lot rustier. I would think you should be fine, but of course there is always a risk.

 

Do you have a picture of the bracket? I feel as if the threads are OK since they are up in the frame and the bolt head rust is deceiving.

 

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Yes, there are two sets of bolts...but they're basically the same. You could use 8 of the same p/n (one was a bit cheaper) and get the same results. One set had a torque-away nub that I believe was sheared off (deliberately) at the factory.

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Not sure this helps...but here are the brackets. The ball sockets attached to them aren't OE of course. The brackets are side-specific.

 

IMG_4282.jpg

 

This was the problem I had:

IMG_2934.jpg

 

These were the p/ns I used:

IMG_2926.jpg

 

The bolts are the same, except for the very end. The ones on the bottom have an extended piece that is intended to shear off. The ones at the look the same, but lact a shearing piece. Dimensionally, the bolt length and thread are the same. Somewhere around here I posted the thread pitch, but IIRC they're 14mm bolts. Next time around, I'll probably just put 9/16" hardware on it.

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When you say shear off do you mean just meant to be cut?

 

I guess if the bolts snapped off at worst I'd be riding around with no rear anti sway? Until I could make new threads since you can't get a nut up in there?

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Nah, a deliberate shear when they install them. In the pic I posted, bolt #3 and #4 are the same bolts; #3 is new, #4 was from the truck (I have 4 bolts like this, and 3 of them didn't have any obstructions to warrant cutting them off). Notice #4 is shorter, lacking the little tip. My hunch is that they install the bolts, and as a confirmation test to test torque (since these are used in a very high-torque application), they put a star socket on the end and purposefully shear that nub off. Bolts #1 and #2 (used and new, respectively) have the same star-pattern nub, but lack the relief cuts after the threads.

 

Since I don't have the means to shear it off, I cut off the tip on just that 1 bolt where it interfered with the sway bar bracket.

 

But really, mundane details.

 

If you're able to shear the bolts in any other place, you're trying waaaaaaay too hard.

 

Driving without the sway bar, if necessary, wouldn't be the end of the world. But no, there isn't easy access to put a nut up there.

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