Brake Rotors

[rc_cola_j]

Please bare with me if this is a dumb question. I'm going to attempt to change my front brake Rotors soon. I've never attempted to change Rotors before.

 

Will I need to take my Warn manual hubs off (apart) in order to get the Rotors off?

 

 

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[LittleFR]

Just thinking off hand of the last time I looked at mine.... Yes, I think I remember checking my brakes and rotors over and thinking, what a freaking nightmare, please don't ever warp on me little rotors.

 

 

actually yep I was right, here is a video that almost makes it look enjoyable if you fast forward it to the end.

Edited September 23, 2016 by LittleFR

[PathyAndTheJets]

Pathfinder's are pretty good about not warping rotors. That's caused by the rotor being at a slight angle on the hub due to rust. Then it develops thin spots on the high point. That's what you feel in the pedal. More of a problem with vehicles that the rotor sits on the front of the hub.

 

Since the Pathfinder rotor is bolted to the hub it gets centered by the tapered wheel bearings, so as long as that mating surface is clean you shouldn't have much of anything for lateral run-out.

 

I measured mine for a brake systems lab for class and came out with perfect thickness variation (no difference between 4 separate spots on the rotor) and zero lateral run-out as measured with a dial indicator.

 

But while you've got the hub off I'd get a new inner hub seal and clean and repack the bearings.

[rc_cola_j]

Just thinking off hand of the last time I looked at mine.... Yes, I think I remember checking my brakes and rotors over and thinking, what a freaking nightmare, please don't ever warp on me little rotors.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFTPyb_Hkvg

 

actually yep I was right, here is a video that almost makes it look enjoyable if you fast forward it to the end.

Thanks!

 

 

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[rc_cola_j]

Pathfinder's are pretty good about not warping rotors. That's caused by the rotor being at a slight angle on the hub due to rust. Then it develops thin spots on the high point. That's what you feel in the pedal. More of a problem with vehicles that the rotor sits on the front of the hub.

 

Since the Pathfinder rotor is bolted to the hub it gets centered by the tapered wheel bearings, so as long as that mating surface is clean you shouldn't have much of anything for lateral run-out.

 

I measured mine for a brake systems lab for class and came out with perfect thickness variation (no difference between 4 separate spots on the rotor) and zero lateral run-out as measured with a dial indicator.

 

But while you've got the hub off I'd get a new inner hub seal and clean and repack the bearings.

How much time does a rotor and caliber change take roughly?

 

 

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[PathyAndTheJets]

Depends on your skill. And on how much rust you have to deal with.

 

I'd plan on like 4 hours. Brush up on packing and adjusting tapered wheel bearings.

[colinnwn]

My biggest problem was making my own bearing preload socket. I think i used a Jeep one and ground part of the tongs off to fit. I also had to get a low setting torque wrench. Other than that, if you've done brakes before, and you installed your own Warns, it wasn't a big deal.

 

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[colinnwn]

I have a problem I'm wondering if is related to this. My brakes are silky smooth if I brake hard or soft below 50 mph, or soft above 50 mph.

 

But if I brake hard above 50 mph I get significant vibration in the pedal, and in the front end. I used the lowest allowed bearing preload in the service manual. Is that possibly the cause?

 

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[adamzan]

Did this start right after the rotor replacement? Or after a little while? Check to make sure there aren't imprints on the rotors in the shape of pads. That is the cause of a lot of vibrations.

 

do you feel any play in the bearings at all when grabbing the tires? If not it's probably fine.

[hawairish]

I have a problem I'm wondering if is related to this. My brakes are silky smooth if I brake hard or soft below 50 mph, or soft above 50 mph.

 

But if I brake hard above 50 mph I get significant vibration in the pedal, and in the front end. I used the lowest allowed bearing preload in the service manual. Is that possibly the cause?

 

Check the rotor runout. They are out-of-spec at 0.1mm/0.004".

[colinnwn]

Did this start right after the rotor replacement? Or after a little while? Check to make sure there aren't imprints on the rotors in the shape of pads. That is the cause of a lot of vibrations.

 

do you feel any play in the bearings at all when grabbing the tires? If not it's probably fine.

It happened after a little while. I'll check those things. I need to get a new floor jack before I can test for looseness in the wheels. Thanks

 

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[LittleFR]

If it's only doing it during a nose dive ie: hard braking going fast it makes me question that it's the brakes at all..... And not front suspension issues like anti-sway end links or something.