Jump to content

Front Brake Issues


Brad251
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have an 88 SE-V6 Path. Its had front brake issues since I bought it back in April. On first glance the pass side pads looked new but the caliper was bad. I've sinced replaced the pass side caliper and all front pads. The driver side pads were worn all the way. Not sure if the bad pass caliper caused the pads to look new on that side and the driver to be bad or if some idiot only replaced one side. I'm still having some squealing and various noises coming from front brakes and the pedal is going down further than it should and def not braking like it should either. I've bled them twice. So I'm thinking possibly bad master cylinder as I can't think of anything else it could be. Thoughts ??

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think you read the post. I've already bled and replaced front pads Braking is actually worse than it was before bleeding and new pads

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't think you read the post. I've already bled and replaced front pads Braking is actually worse than it was before bleeding and new pads

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

no I read it, start at the farthest wheel from the master cyl and work towards the closest, rt rear, left rear, rt frt, left frt , unless you have a right hand drive vech then start on the opposite side

bleed the left rear until you get new clean fluid, brake fluid should be changed at intervals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It used to only squeal when braking. But it started making a light squeal all the time right before I changed the pads. And it also still does it after changing the pads. But it gets worse and the noise changes some when braking. The rotors looked fine. I have not bled the back ones. I do have 4 wheel disc. I'm not sure what bed the pads means. I did use that lube stuff that you put on the pads

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You only used the lube on the slides and the back of the pads, right?

 

The destroyed driver's side pads and constant squeaking makes me think the driver's side caliper might be hanging up. Soft pedal makes me think +1 on air in the system somewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. Only used lube on back of pads. I guess my next step is too bleed the rear then the front again. And it's a possibility the front drv side caliper is bad too. The passenger side had one piston locked up and rubbing when I changed it. May go ahead and change the driver side too. The part is not too $$

 

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may be able to salvage the sticking caliper by removing the pads, and inserting a dummy in their place that is about the same thickness as the pad backing plate. Depress the brake pedal and force the caliper pistons to extend out. Clean the pistons with brake clean and toothbrush. Push back into caliper bores and repeat the process. If pistons are junk, they will look like it, otherwise this method should get them working again. Calipers never get any attention, could just be gunked up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should always replace calipers in pairs. If one is bad the other is usually not far behind. Too many times replacing just one causes problems. Collapsed brake hoses definitely can cause a fake caliper issue however. An east way to tell is pump the brakes up and Crack the bleeder on the caliper. If there's a burst of pressurized fluid that means the fluid wasn't able to return through the hose.

 

Soft pedal sounds like air, or a bad caliper - they can bypass fluid inside without actually leaking.

Edited by Kingman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brake calipers can't internally bypass. There is no secondary circuit to bypass into.

 

There is one square cut seal that the caliper seals with. Then there's a dust boot. The only place for the fluid to internally bypass is the master cylinder.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brake calipers can't internally bypass. There is no secondary circuit to bypass into.

 

There is one square cut seal that the caliper seals with. Then there's a dust boot. The only place for the fluid to internally bypass is the master cylinder.

It sounds unlogical yes, however it's happened to me and customers' vehicles before. Only with twin piston calipers so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you had a separate feed like a hydraulic cylinder then it could, since you have another circuit for the fluid to feed into and not externally leak. Multi piston calipers still have one feed line. There just isn't anywhere else to go, other than through the seal. Even a 4 pot still only has one feed. All the passages are pressurized, so even if they bypassed into each other there'd be no difference because the pressure would be equal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are correct and yes it makes no sense. But why then does the brake pedal fade only with a direct shot to the calipers (ABS bypassed)? Block the lines off between ABS and master the pedal is solid, and after ABS before the calipers the pedal is solid. Replaced the calipers and the pedal is solid. Re-installed the old calipers and the pedal fades. Obviously air in the system is not a factor.

 

It's not the OP's problem more than likely but it's a curiously confounding question.

 

I am going to ask thoughn the calipers aren't on upside down are they ? If the bleeder is on the bottom all of the air will never flush out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...