Brad251 Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 I have an 88 SE-V6 Path. Its had front brake issues since I bought it back in April. On first glance the pass side pads looked new but the caliper was bad. I've sinced replaced the pass side caliper and all front pads. The driver side pads were worn all the way. Not sure if the bad pass caliper caused the pads to look new on that side and the driver to be bad or if some idiot only replaced one side. I'm still having some squealing and various noises coming from front brakes and the pedal is going down further than it should and def not braking like it should either. I've bled them twice. So I'm thinking possibly bad master cylinder as I can't think of anything else it could be. Thoughts ?? Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 bleed the system possible air in the system. squealing brakes could be glaze buildup on the rotors or pads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad251 Posted August 11, 2016 Author Share Posted August 11, 2016 Don't think you read the post. I've already bled and replaced front pads Braking is actually worse than it was before bleeding and new pads Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terranovation Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 I remember reading a thing with the brake pedal adjustment bolt. Have a look at the brake pedal and above it you should see an adjustable bolt for the pedal travel. It's worth a look. Sorry that's all I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Try bleeding your back brakes as well. It sounds stupid but I replaced my calipers and the pedal didn't feel right until I did that. Plus getting fresh brake fluid in the system Didn't hurt. Does it squeal only when braking or all the time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Don't think you read the post. I've already bled and replaced front pads Braking is actually worse than it was before bleeding and new pads Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk no I read it, start at the farthest wheel from the master cyl and work towards the closest, rt rear, left rear, rt frt, left frt , unless you have a right hand drive vech then start on the opposite side bleed the left rear until you get new clean fluid, brake fluid should be changed at intervals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 13, 2016 Share Posted August 13, 2016 Did you bed the new pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad251 Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 It used to only squeal when braking. But it started making a light squeal all the time right before I changed the pads. And it also still does it after changing the pads. But it gets worse and the noise changes some when braking. The rotors looked fine. I have not bled the back ones. I do have 4 wheel disc. I'm not sure what bed the pads means. I did use that lube stuff that you put on the pads Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad251 Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 Also the pedal feel is worse after changing pads and goes down further than it did before new pads Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 You only used the lube on the slides and the back of the pads, right? The destroyed driver's side pads and constant squeaking makes me think the driver's side caliper might be hanging up. Soft pedal makes me think +1 on air in the system somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad251 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 Yes. Only used lube on back of pads. I guess my next step is too bleed the rear then the front again. And it's a possibility the front drv side caliper is bad too. The passenger side had one piston locked up and rubbing when I changed it. May go ahead and change the driver side too. The part is not too $$ Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bherscher Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 You may be able to salvage the sticking caliper by removing the pads, and inserting a dummy in their place that is about the same thickness as the pad backing plate. Depress the brake pedal and force the caliper pistons to extend out. Clean the pistons with brake clean and toothbrush. Push back into caliper bores and repeat the process. If pistons are junk, they will look like it, otherwise this method should get them working again. Calipers never get any attention, could just be gunked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 What brand of pads did you get? From my prior experiences, Japanese vehicles don't like cheap pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Did you change the brake hoses as well? Sometimes they collapse internally and form a one way valve of sorts. They're also usually pretty cheap so it might not hurt anyways, since they may be original. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) Should always replace calipers in pairs. If one is bad the other is usually not far behind. Too many times replacing just one causes problems. Collapsed brake hoses definitely can cause a fake caliper issue however. An east way to tell is pump the brakes up and Crack the bleeder on the caliper. If there's a burst of pressurized fluid that means the fluid wasn't able to return through the hose. Soft pedal sounds like air, or a bad caliper - they can bypass fluid inside without actually leaking. Edited August 18, 2016 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 Brake calipers can't internally bypass. There is no secondary circuit to bypass into. There is one square cut seal that the caliper seals with. Then there's a dust boot. The only place for the fluid to internally bypass is the master cylinder. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Brake calipers can't internally bypass. There is no secondary circuit to bypass into. There is one square cut seal that the caliper seals with. Then there's a dust boot. The only place for the fluid to internally bypass is the master cylinder. It sounds unlogical yes, however it's happened to me and customers' vehicles before. Only with twin piston calipers so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 If you had a separate feed like a hydraulic cylinder then it could, since you have another circuit for the fluid to feed into and not externally leak. Multi piston calipers still have one feed line. There just isn't anywhere else to go, other than through the seal. Even a 4 pot still only has one feed. All the passages are pressurized, so even if they bypassed into each other there'd be no difference because the pressure would be equal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 You are correct and yes it makes no sense. But why then does the brake pedal fade only with a direct shot to the calipers (ABS bypassed)? Block the lines off between ABS and master the pedal is solid, and after ABS before the calipers the pedal is solid. Replaced the calipers and the pedal is solid. Re-installed the old calipers and the pedal fades. Obviously air in the system is not a factor. It's not the OP's problem more than likely but it's a curiously confounding question. I am going to ask thoughn the calipers aren't on upside down are they ? If the bleeder is on the bottom all of the air will never flush out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Huh. Maybe the seal is slipping forward on the piston? But you'd probably get it to blow out if you gave it a good shot if that was happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 That could be. Some pistons are much bigger than the pad surface so it's possible the seals push out around then retract. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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