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Need to Program Computer (ECM or ECU?)


wmj259
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Hello,

 

New to the forum, but I have tried googling these things. I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder V6. I sent it off for repair because the computer was "burned" (it was black). (I am asking my dad what had been done so these are his words). So we sent it off for repair had it repaired and coded and it was sent back. So after plugging it back in the RPM wouldn't steady out it would rise and die down repeatedly.

 

Called the repairer for what he did on the computer and we said to change the motherboard and he programmed it. Same issue.

 

I had thought the key would be the problem so i called a locksmith who programmed the key, and I asked him to program the computer since he said he could. He did that and same issue with rpm, I told him about it and he got mad and deleted everything on the computer (I assume since it won't start now.) I have the computer and it looks like Module Repair Pro fixed it. http://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/.

 

Thinking it needs reprograming now. Any clue?

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It may of needed to learn the closed throttle position as its drive by wire. It's easy to do, but is time consuming. Don't rush it and things should go fine. What you want to do is sit in the car with drivers door closed and no loads on. Keep your feet off the pedals. Cycle the key to the on position(do not try and start) and let it sit for 10 seconds. Once 10 seconds is up, cycle the key off for another ten seconds. You have to do this about 20 times. This will learn the throttle pedal closed position as well as the throttle body closed position. You should end with they key on. You can then try and start it and see what happens.

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It may of needed to learn the closed throttle position as its drive by wire. It's easy to do, but is time consuming. Don't rush it and things should go fine. What you want to do is sit in the car with drivers door closed and no loads on. Keep your feet off the pedals. Cycle the key to the on position(do not try and start) and let it sit for 10 seconds. Once 10 seconds is up, cycle the key off for another ten seconds. You have to do this about 20 times. This will learn the throttle pedal closed position as well as the throttle body closed position. You should end with they key on. You can then try and start it and see what happens.

 

That could be the case, I just had this same problem with my VW Passat. Will try tomorrow or Monday. But damn, 20 times???? :/ . I tried doing a ECU reset (not sure if thats what its called)

 

I had to turn the key to on position, wait 3 seconds and then within 5 seconds press the gas pedal and release. Then wait 7 seconds, hold the gas pedal for 10 seconds..........................yada yada. Tried to look through my history to find that link.

 

Not sure if that process ^^^^^^(Above) was applicable to me?

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2002's were still drive-by-cable, though, so I don't think there's an idle re-learn process. However, since you indicated a toasted ECU, you may want to do some additional searching related to the idle air control valve (IACV). I've seen several threads at the NICO forum about R50 owners having a failed IACV that caused ECU damage.

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Also I may add that the remote works in opening the door locks. Does the key still need initializing? I can do that know if it does. The key does crank the vehicle if that makes a difference.

 

I disconnected the connector that goes to the valve to do the tests shown in this video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYuRKzsqp-g
I am getting the 12 volts from the battery in the middle column, but for resistance I am getting only 20 in the testings as the video has 30. Maybe different model?


I noticed when looking at the plug it was burned/melted.
Here's some pics. Could this be the issue?

 

http://i.imgur.com/DUyFzqH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rae5vg4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/67Zebbx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Kci8yE4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/w4THMkP.jpg

Edited by wmj259
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Yeah, I'd say that connector is a likely source of failure.

Will I be able to pull the wires out from the old connector and shove into a replacement one? Or I gotta cut and splice?

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Possibly. Depends on how the leads look once you get the harness apart. There should be little boots on the backside of the harness that you slide down, then you need a T-pin or similar to 'unlock' the lead from the harness. But with the harness melted like that, you may need to carefully destroy the harness...which may be more trouble than it's worth. If you have the means to cut and splice, that's probably the approach I'd take personally. But, doesn't hurt to try one approach and fall back on cut/splice.

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Your computer needs to be reflashed. Take it to nissan they will do it for $100. I had this issue when I first bought my pathfinder. I went through 3 computers. I also tried a guy that sodered a new board on. Snapped the second I plugged it in.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Went to a junkyard this morning, and pulled myself a connector from another nissan, same exact wire colorings on both mine the donor. Will do that today and get the ECU programmed.


D8hLaZc.jpg

WPUjikA.jpg

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I changed up the connector plug, so I started doing the pedal and throttle body relearning. Its not starting up, I think the computer needs programming. Dealer wants $1k+. Anyone ideas?

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I scanned the car, and am getting 3 codes

P1610-NATS Malfunction

P1615-NATS Malfunction

P1131-Swirl Control Solenoid Valve.

 

????

I just tried to perform a P1610 Nissan Lock Mode Escape. (turn on ignition for 5 secs and turn off, repeat 3 times total.

 

I noticed whenever I have the Key to ON the security light is on solid.

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Sorry to hear of your issues but I can't help here. The R50's are not my area of expertise. Hopefully this bump will stimulate more traffic and get you some answers.

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I called a locksmith, he came in. I told him that I changed the ECM. He initialized the immobilizer and the car started up soooo smoothly with a purr. The code for a swirl solenoid is coming up, but I read that the code needs to be erased for it to turn the CEL off.


I also asked him if he could do the relearning of the TB and idle stuff. He did that. Also he scanned a Honda Element for me and was insisting on the same price as on the phone for $125. If anyone needs a recommendation in MD, I say call Victory Auto Lock.


I am having a jerking issue now. When I put my foot on the gas a little bit it jerks. Could be because I didnt reset the CEL?

I just reset the CEL. Will test drive again. Any thoughts ?

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On the drive status (lights for if I am in 4WD 2WD RWD). It happens on all the drives. I think I may flush the transmission to see if that helps.

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I just replaced the swirl valve. Cleared the code and I started the engine. I pressed the gas and at about 1.5k-2k rpm the engine starts jumping up and down. If I press the gas harder then it just goes normal and goes to 3k+ rpm like it should.


I did disconnect couple of connectors to change the swirl valve.

All these 4-5 connectors.

DpSqb06.jpg


I did try doing the relearn from this link:


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So I fugged up. Without realizing it I had placed the swirl valve in the wrong way The silver plug should be facing the driver fender. I had it that the silver plug goes into the black box. :deadhorse: .

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