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Back window squirters not working


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It's a common issue thst the nozzles clog up. The other issue is the rear washer pump seizes up. You can poke through the nozzles with a pin or needle to clear it out. Now to test the pump. Have someone press on the switch and see or hear if the pump spins. It's rearward of the washer fluid tank.

 

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Easy enough to test for voltage at the motor connector if the motor doesn't go. If the motor gets power but doesn't go, it's probably seized. You can replace the pump or try to unseize it. The pumps are easy to disassemble, three screws and some tabs to get the motor apart IIRC, and a little steel wool or fine sandpaper should knock the rust off the shaft and the commutator well enough to make it spin freely again. Grease the bushings when putting it back together. This bought me a lot of time with the pumps in my '95 but I did eventually have to replace the front pump due to the lower bushing wearing out to the point that window washer fluid would squeeze out and piddle out the drain hole in the motor onto the wheel well if I filled the res more than half way.

 

But yeah, if the pump works but nothing comes out, check the nozzle. Also keep in mind that there's a long thin pipe going from that pump, through the roof, to that nozzle, so if you haven't used the system in a long time, it may need to prime.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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You can check easily to determine if it's the rear pump motor or the nozzle (if the front windshield washer/pump combo is in good known working condition), remove the tubing from the rear pump and reattach to the front pump motor, if it still doesn't spray, then you know it's the nozzle that's clogged. If it does work then you know its the pump motor that's bad, in which case you can just get a small plastic T of the right size from a hardware store and just split off the front pump motor in two directions, so that when you hit the front sprayers, the rear window will get it also at the same time.

 

I've recently discovered the if you strip the plastic off a tie wrap, the thin piece of metal left behind is a great tool for clearing clogged jets on small engine carburetors, I bet it would also work on the sprayer nozzles as well.

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Have someone press the switch while you unblock the nozzle. I remember getting some really strong masking tape and taping the button down then running to the back and prodded the nozzles with a needle and there was a tiny grain of sand that came out. Both nozzles have been good ever since.

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