Power door locks 1990 Pathfinder

[archer973]

I am trying to fix the power door locks. There is a constant 12 V applied to all four actuators holding them in the unlock position. If I try to manually lock any door, the actuator starts vibrating and pushing pack against the lock knob. I am guessing that for some reason the door lock timer is sending a constant lock signal to the door locks, but I do not know if this indicates the timer is bad or if it is receiving a constant "lock doors" command. I have removed the drivers door lock switch and used a DMM to test it for proper functionality. As I type this, I realize I need to test the switch on the passenger door.

 

I cannot locate the door lock timer or the circuit breaker for the power door locks. My Chilton's says circuit breakers are in the fuse box, but if they are there they are well hidden. Does anyone know where I can find the circuit breaker and/or lock timer?

 

If I cannot find the source of the problem, I can just open each door panel and disconnect the actuators. It would be easier if I can just open the circuit breaker. I would like to find the timer so I can check it's inputs and outputs.

 

Any other ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

1990 Pathfinder SE 4WD

[archer973]

So I went out to check the switch in the passenger door and I can say without a doubt it is not the problem. There isn't a switch on this door although the Chilton wiring diagram shows one. This should tell you how often I've sat in the passenger seat.

[Cuong Nguyen]

Door lock timer is located in the rear left quarter panel.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[archer973]

Door lock timer is located in the rear left quarter panel.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Hi Cuong,

 

Thank you for your reply--very helpful. I opened up the rear left quarter panel and found the ASCD Control Unit and what I think is the Rear Wiper Amplifier. There is also a white block with several connectors...it looks more like a junction block and does not appear to contain any electronic modules that would be a timer unit, but it could be within that block--somewhere. As I was tugging on it to get some of the connectors loose, the door lock actuators cycled, so I'm at the right place. After disconnecting all the connectors, the door lock actuators no longer have 12 Vdc applied to them and I can manually lock and unlock all the doors now, so I don't have to open up each door panel and disconnect each actuator. But I still cannot identify the timer which I suspect is bad and want to replace.

 

I tried to upload some images but received an error message so I am going to include some links that should work as long as the photos are on my cloud drive.

 

This first image is the opened left rear panel.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBQ1VlNHMxQlVYWGs

 

This image is a close-up of the ASCD Control.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBbm1JWGJnaU1BWTQ

 

This is a close up of the connector block. Is the Timer Unit in this mess?

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBbWN3ZmZ0VjYxa0E

[Cuong Nguyen]

It looks to be the unit below the ascd. Hard to see. I'm going off memory on my 93

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[archer973]

Yes, you are correct. I had concluded that was the Rear Wiper Amplifier based on a figure in my Chilton (see link below), so I didn't bother to remove it. After reading your post, I went out and checked. It is clearly marked as the door lock timer (see second link below). Thank you for your help!

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBUVhTZTZpWHJlMVE

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBRDZNdmE1RkN2MzQ

[archer973]

I'm still hoping someone can tell me where the Door Lock Circuit Breaker is located. It is shown in the wiring diagram (see link below), but I am not able to find it.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBUFJBZ3E2TkN0QUk

[Cuong Nguyen]

It's not in the fuse panel? If not check under the hood passenger side relaypanel.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[archer973]

It's not in the fuse panel? If not check under the hood passenger side relaypanel.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Hi again. No, not in the fuse panel although Chilton says it is. Two rows of fuses and mounted above the fuse block are three relays. But I could not locate any circuit breakers. Also not in the relay panel under the hood. The relays and fusible links under the hood match the figures in the Chilton manual.

 

However, I have completed testing and am confident the problem is the Door Lock Timer--see my next post, so finding that circuit breaker is a matter of curiosity rather than a necessity at this time.

 

Thank you for your help! You led me to the timer location so I could do the testing. There is a constant 12 Vdc output from the timer that is driving the lock actuators to the unlock position--and draining my battery.

[archer973]

Thanks to Cuong Nguyen, I finally found the Door Lock Timer. I tested it and will describe my tests and conclusions. I don't like the threads I see where people ask questions, receive a lot of advice and then never come back to let us know if and how the problem was resolved.

 

I had previously tested the door lock switch and found it was functioning properly. After locating the Door Lock Timer, I disconnected the connector and tested for voltages and grounds on it. Refer to the figure in the following link. This is a portion of the wiring diagram for the 1990 Pathfinder chassis wiring in the Chilton manual. If you do not have Chilton, go to the Repair Guide on the autozone.com website. I'm fairly certain that repair guide is a copy of the Chilton manual, but it might be Haynes.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3qYZBSJdOoBUXdWMXRkaVdZaDg

 

Notes about the figure:

1) I never located the circuit breaker.

2) The BLU/GRN and BLU/ORN wires are actually YEL/RED and YEL/BLK. I did not take time to determine which corresponded to which as it wasn't necessary for my testing.

 

I used a digital multi-meter to make these tests. The WHT/GRN wire in the connector is 12 Vdc. A continuity test on the BLK wire showed it is connected to chassis ground. I had an assistant (the lovely Mrs. Archer) operate the lock switch while testing the BLK/RED and BLK/YEL wires. They were normally open. At first I tested for 12 Vdc when she operated the switch, but did not get a voltage so I tested for continuity to ground. The BLK/YEL read continuity to ground when the switch was pressed to the lock position. The BLK/RED read continuity to ground when the switch was pressed to the unlock position.

 

I reconnected the timer module and then tested for voltage on the YEL/RED and YEL/BLK wires. There was a constant 12 Vdc output from the timer module on the YEL/BLK wire. This voltage is continuously driving the actuators to the unlock position. It is also a continuous drain on my battery.

 

I disconnected the timer module and left it that way. I can now lock my doors manually. In a week or so I will make a trip to the mainland and to a wrecking yard (Pick-N-Pull) to get a new (used) door lock timer module. I will post again at that time to confirm the problem is resolved.

 

 

[Cuong Nguyen]

Glad I could help. I got home and saw the same thing going you did. I couldn't remember I ever saw such a thing.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[SpecialWarr]

Cuong Nguyen

 

He's a good guy to have on the site!!

[HayesWD21]

Alright, new Nissan owner here.

 

Reading through the topics for Power Lock issues on the WD21's but I'm not seeing my exact problem.

 

Went to unlock the rig with my key (PO never gave me the FOB, just got the rig so I haven't had time to look through the entire thing yet) but the door wouldn't unlock....key turns to the left and right but the lock doesn't go up or down and obviously door won't open, broke the drivers side handle off *rage*, then managed to sneak in through the back gate.

 

Once in I couldn't even get out of the darn thing, every time I pulled the lock up it re-latched. Snuck back out the gate after popping the hood and pulled the fusible link so the locks have no power, managed to unlock everything manually after that but I'm confused as to why the key does not lock or unlock the doors from outside. Even with the power cut to the locks they don't work from outside..can I not just leave the locks as manual? Do I actually have to replace this silly door lock timer that seems to cause so much frustration?

 

I haven't had the chance to take the panel off the door yet to have a look and see what's going on in the doors yet, I'm sure I'll be a little smarter once I do that but was hoping for some insight before taking things apart.

 

Thanks.

 

 

[adamzan]

There are little plastic clip like things that hold the lock rods to the lock cylinder. I don't have a pic, but if you take the door panel off you'll see what I mean. And whatever is broken will probably be pretty obvious.

 

There probably is no fob I don't think that year came with it. unless it has an aftermarket alarm or something.

 

You could leave the locks as manual, does the key not work in the passenger side? Does it turn a little, not at all, or does it just go around in circles?

[Slartibartfast]

If the locks don't work from outside, that's an issue with the lock, not the module. Even when my '95 was at its most annoying and the door lock motor was actively fighting against me trying to turn the key, I was still able to unlock the bugger.

 

I did have one lock on that rig that was frozen when I got it and wouldn't turn. I blew a bunch of graphite in there and that got it working. It also made the power locks go crazy (see above), possibly because it got into the switch behind the lock that tells the timer you're turning the key, so I recommend finding something other than graphite if you're trying to get a lock unstuck.

[vagabond]

Alright, new Nissan owner here.

 

Reading through the topics for Power Lock issues on the WD21's but I'm not seeing my exact problem.

 

Went to unlock the rig with my key (PO never gave me the FOB, just got the rig so I haven't had time to look through the entire thing yet) but the door wouldn't unlock....key turns to the left and right but the lock doesn't go up or down and obviously door won't open, broke the drivers side handle off *rage*, then managed to sneak in through the back gate.

 

Once in I couldn't even get out of the darn thing, every time I pulled the lock up it re-latched. Snuck back out the gate after popping the hood and pulled the fusible link so the locks have no power, managed to unlock everything manually after that but I'm confused as to why the key does not lock or unlock the doors from outside. Even with the power cut to the locks they don't work from outside..can I not just leave the locks as manual? Do I actually have to replace this silly door lock timer that seems to cause so much frustration?

 

I haven't had the chance to take the panel off the door yet to have a look and see what's going on in the doors yet, I'm sure I'll be a little smarter once I do that but was hoping for some insight before taking things apart.

 

Thanks.

 

 

probably this part #80552-73P00

its the part that holds the lock rod to the door latch

never mind did't read the whole post

Edited October 24, 2016 by vagabond

[HayesWD21]

Thanks guys, since I posted I was able to get my hands on a FSM and had some time to take the inner panels off the front doors.

 

As some of you suspected the linkage between the lock tumbler and mechanism had come apart, pretty tight squeeze for these hands but managed to get everything back together and working properly. (Even got a new handle from RockAuto so I don't have to reach in from the back seat to open the drivers door *WINNING!*)

 

A little more troubleshooting found that the door lock timer is flakey (at best) sometimes it works flawlessly other times it'll lock randomly and wont allow you to unlock. Being the type of guy that would rather reach across the seat to unlock for the wife VS get locked out of the rig in the bush I decided to just unplug @ the door lock timer(that way the power windows still work) and use the locks manually now that the keys work in the door again. If I get the time I may wire up a few relays to bypass the timer and have working power locks again but that's low on the list.

 

While I was looking at the wiring I decided to find out just how bad of an abortion the aftermarket remote starter and radio were...was not overly surprised. Removed all of the remote starter wiring. The fuse would randomly blow for the radio/interior lights so I figured there was a wire rubbing somewhere but what I found was much more interesting. Buddy that installed the radio didn't opt for the aftermarket antenna adapter and decided instead to "splice" two wires together, twist the ends, tape them and shove them into the antenna plug @ the back of the radio....thus creating a dead short whenever I hit a bump and blowing the fuse. NEEDLESS to say I have addressed the issue and now have interior lights and a proper functioning radio again. People never cease to amaze lol.

[SpecialWarr]

Nice work! Mine was an absolute nightmare and I got to the point where I removed every wire under the dash, cut "whatever" was soldered to it that didn't look factory and pulled every wire, speaker and amp out of the truck just so it would stop eating the battery.... best move I ever did.