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Odd electric issues... engine work was easier


crab
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Now that the motor has had everything changed ( all in the sig), it's on to the myriad electric issues. If there are good threads for any of these issues, that's all I'm really asking for. Thanks.

 

No horn

 

1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms) This may be the headlight switch? Ordered one off ebay. mine has a screw in the side of it from the PO). everything needs changing on this $800 rig. But I'm already in love, so time to man up.

 

No backup lights ( took out one bulb, looked fine) by the way who is the sadist that designed the rear light assemblies? And the head lights , for that matter. Do you reach in from above, or remove the air cleaner on one side and the battery on the other? Links, people, I need links.

 

Doors do not lock or unlock with key. Afraid to try the electric lock from the drivers door. I might get stuck in there permanently.

 

Windows do not roll up on either rear door. It's January people, and one window is open. I have cardboard and plastic over the opening.

 

Whats the recommended way to remove the door panels?

 

I fixed the no clock/ no courtesy lights/no cabin lights issue. The rear cargo area light was smashed and shorted, as I hoped. Pull that out, change a fuse and voila, inside lights.

 

That's just the electrics that I need help with. There's more.....

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1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms)

 

That sounds like 2 different problems: 1) a bad ground and 2) possible switch that's overheated / carbonized. Links to either of these I do not know but I'm be willing to bet my last $21.42 that the ground wires are corroded or broken. (One of the major problems with the Pathy are the cheap grounds.... coulda and shoulda gone with better but they didn't.) I went with cable eye-rings under the body bolts that hold the fender on, crimped and sealed, painted over and RTV'ed over that. Looks frankenstein but works great.

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I did a write up on how to change a headlight bulb maybe check that out. There is another way of accessing the rear of the headlights but it involves removing the entire front grille, then you can unscrew the headlight adjusters all the way out and remove the bolts (don't lose them) then you can pivot the headlight out by swinging it to one side to have at the rear of the headlight. The headlight is connected to a metal bracket with a plastic ball joint at the base of it.

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1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms)

 

That sounds like 2 different problems: 1) a bad ground and 2) possible switch that's overheated / carbonized. Links to either of these I do not know but I'm be willing to bet my last $21.42 that the ground wires are corroded or broken. (One of the major problems with the Pathy are the cheap grounds.... coulda and shoulda gone with better but they didn't.) I went with cable eye-rings under the body bolts that hold the fender on, crimped and sealed, painted over and RTV'ed over that. Looks frankenstein but works great.

thanks. I've got to get knowledgeable about the electrics. I hear there are separate hot leads for low and high beam. Separate grounds as well? unless the hot lead itself is toast.

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I did a write up on how to change a headlight bulb maybe check that out. There is another way of accessing the rear of the headlights but it involves removing the entire front grille, then you can unscrew the headlight adjusters all the way out and remove the bolts (don't lose them) then you can pivot the headlight out by swinging it to one side to have at the rear of the headlight. The headlight is connected to a metal bracket with a plastic ball joint at the base of it.

 

 

ah, excellent. So it seems to be designed to pivot out to the front of the car? makes more sense than the gymnastics of doing it the other way. I wish they still made sealed beams. 10 years between replacements.

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Yes they should swivel outwards but you'll have to hold onto the headlight to avoid it dropping, should just rest it on the edge of the bumper once you swivel it out. If you want to you can even remove the entire headlight by pulling up hard to pop the plastic ball joint out of the socket. Just be careful with the age of the plastic but they are quite tough. If your headlights have dirt in them now would be a good time to vacuum them out or even get them apart to clean with lens cleaner. I never took mine apart but it looks like they have metal clips around the edges that can be removed then I guess some sort of glue holds the glass to the plastic surround.

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YES! New headlight switch from eBay solved the no high beams on one side issue. You guys are the best! Wish I could buy you all a beer or 3.

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Also, I have no backup lights when in reverse, but I did see both sides come on briefly when my girl was starting up the rig, so it's not the bulbs. Is the switch that engages the backup lights in the shifter, or down in the transmission?

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How did you go with the headlight removal or did you just swivel them out to change bulbs? Remember to re aim your lights too. Best way to do it is park about 10 ft from a wall, then put tape against the wall with the tape line 3 ft high from the ground. Then screw the adjusters in until the top edge of the beam makes it to the tape line. Screw the adjusters on the sides of the headlight in until the beams are inwards but only slightly. The headlights should appear straight. Best to do in a dark garage.

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No worries, glad to help. Don't know about the back up lights issue, it might be fuse so check the cabin fuse panel. Might even be a good idea to pull all the fuses and replace with brand new ones just for peace of mind.

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Manual or auto?

 

Sounds like since it flashed, the switch is probably worn out. In the manual it's the closest switch to the front. 15 bucks at your local parts house.

 

Auto? It's probably part of the range sensor, and may be able to be cleaned. New range sensors are usually a spendy item. Probably looking at 100+.

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Have you fixed your door locks yet? I swapped some parts from my old truck to my sisters truck to get hers working. We were surprized by every thing in there. On a R50 the key lock is just an electric switch...no mechanical connection at all to the door lock. You should be able to get a panel removal tool at any auto store for ten bucks.

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Shouldn't even need to buy a panel removal tool, I just used an old butter knife to pop out the plastic clips holding the door panel. Just slide in under the clip then turn the knife in a twisting action to get them out. Usually after getting a couple out, there's enough room to get your hand in there and just start removing slowly and the rest pop out. There should be 14 clips IIRC.

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Front of the trans on the passenger side. It screws in and kinda sucks to get at. I think it's 18mm? 3/4 fits good enough though. I could only get to mine with a stubby wrench.

thanks. I live in the woods and being able to see while backing up is kinda important.

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Have you fixed your door locks yet? I swapped some parts from my old truck to my sisters truck to get hers working. We were surprized by every thing in there. On a R50 the key lock is just an electric switch...no mechanical connection at all to the door lock. You should be able to get a panel removal tool at any auto store for ten bucks.

thanks for the tips. you used the locks on your sister's truck? was there a number on the lock? I understand you need to give the dealer the code on the cylinder for them to give you matching keys. I am still thinking the key I use for the ignition is old and worn and hopefully that's the only reason it doesn't turn in the door,

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Shouldn't even need to buy a panel removal tool, I just used an old butter knife to pop out the plastic clips holding the door panel. Just slide in under the clip then turn the knife in a twisting action to get them out. Usually after getting a couple out, there's enough room to get your hand in there and just start removing slowly and the rest pop out. There should be 14 clips IIRC.

But but....whatever happened to "any reason to buy a new tool"?

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If your key won't turn in the lock it may just lubing. In the R50 the lock is an electrical switch just like on the arm rest inside. On sisters truck it was the part that they connects to, an electrical thingy connected to the machanical thingy the operates the rods for the inner and out door handles and the door latch. I think there are 5 rods with the pivot points lots of wire plugs and about 20 bolts and screws. There are acouple of metal plates I took out to try to fit my hands in there. Best thing is to have small hands and very long fingers.

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If your key won't turn in the lock it may just lubing. In the R50 the lock is an electrical switch just like on the arm rest inside. On sisters truck it was the part that they connects to, an electrical thingy connected to the machanical thingy the operates the rods for the inner and out door handles and the door latch. I think there are 5 rods with the pivot points lots of wire plugs and about 20 bolts and screws. There are acouple of metal plates I took out to try to fit my hands in there. Best thing is to have small hands and very long fingers.

what's good for lubing the door locks?

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If you have power locks, I do not recommend graphite. The locks on my '95 went nuts when I did that. They would actually run the lock motor inside against the key sometimes. To be fair, I did blow a ton of graphite into them, and there could've been some other issue that unseizing the driver's lock exposed, (and those locks were never quite right to begin with,) but given that there's an electrical switch at the back of the cylinder, something non-conductive is probably best.

 

WD40 isn't terrible but it does tend to attract dirt.

 

From what I've read, something silicone or teflon based tends to do better.

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