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First start after engine swap failing


trexterra
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To spell out the details, put in a vg30e to replace the blown vg30i. I reused the intake from the i since I do not have the ECU or harness for the e. I'm getting fuel, when I let off the key you can sometimes see a pressurized mist come back out the throttle body, and it won't run off starter fluid. I've checked the timing and it's set 15* BTDC. When I check the plugs for spark I get a good clean looking normal spark, only issue is that it is arcing. It arced to the air box once and I thought it was a fluke. When holding the distributor to rotate timing as my buddy cranked it, it arced through my body giving me a good little ride! I ordered a new rotor/cap/wire set because those are clearly faulty. It was the set that was running however before the motor blew a rod out the oil pan so I feel like it should be able to start this motor. Any other ideas to try while I wait for parts?

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Yeah I double checked by putting a dowel in to the #1 spark plug hole to make sure it was at TDC (compression stroke) while the harmonic balancer was showing TDC

 

 

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Crank keyway at about 11 o'clock? Backfiring through the intake sounds like it's set 180 out. Not sure how you got the timing set to 15* because the engine needs to be idling and running smooth for that...

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It's an impudence timing light so it only flashes light when the #1 wire gets spark. So even if the engine is just cranking and turning slowly than it will always flash TDC. Shouldn't matter how fast it's spinning as long as it tells me #1 is firing when it should.

 

 

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All I can think of is check the basics again.

Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 contact when at TDC, double check all your vacuum lines, etc.

 

I had a similar issue with my swap, also an e to i. IIRC it ended up being a vac leak which fouled the plugs. Found the leak, cleaned the plugs and set the timing, all good from there.

 

Good luck.

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Did just that and went back to basics. Got it started tonight, went to install new cap and rotor and it was somehow 180 off from where I dropped it in. Not sure how timing was showing right, anyone know if #1 fires twice per crank rotation? Either way I'll put the timing light on it again tomorrow when I can get some help because she's running but only if I keep feathering the throttle. Going to re adjust timing and go from there.

 

 

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Crank keyway at about 11 o'clock? Backfiring through the intake sounds like it's set 180 out. Not sure how you got the timing set to 15* because the engine needs to be idling and running smooth for that...

You were right, still don't get how timing was showing right though. I confirmed #1 cyl was at top of compression stroke as harmonic balancer was showing me 30 BTDC lined up on the arrow when I dropped the distributor in to line the rotor up with #1. It was most definitely 180 out tonight when i took the cap off. I followed the same procedures as stated above that I got from the fsm and for whatever reason it worked tonight.

 

 

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Sounds like you accidentally timed it to top dead exhaust. Top dead compression and top dead exhaust look exactly the same at the balancer because the crank's in the exact same position. The crank turns twice to turn the cams once, so at top dead exhaust, your cams are 180° out from where they are at top dead compression. With the dizzy out, you can't tell the two apart visually without pulling the upper timing cover and checking the location of the dimples on the cam sprockets.

 

You could also work out position by putting a compression gauge on cylinder #1, or do what I did on a friend's van once and stick your finger in the spark plug hole while turning the motor over and just feel for when it stops pushing air out. As I remember we ended up a tooth out one way or the other, but at least it got us close enough to guess our way back to right.

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