Needing some help with a no start

[erichasbell]

The vehicle in question is my lovely and previously reliable 1996 Nissan pathfinder 5 speed 4wd. It was having a problem it would start and drive in the morning then needed to sit for a while before I drove it again and would run sluggish and jump rpms or bog down and not want to go or it would drop to a rough idle and not go anywere til it sat for a bit. Now it threw codes for a distributor and a knock sensor and saying it runs too lean. After speaking to a mechanic I was advised to replace the distributor and knock sensor. After replacing these things it will crank sometimes rough and sometimes smooth but will not start. I have checked for fuel it has fuel no problem I have checked the wiring its wired right. I check the spark plugs there good so are the spark plug wires. I've checked the anti theft its fine too.I don't know what else to do if there is even anything I can do. I don't want to throw in the towel on her she's such a good vehicle. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm at a loss as to what else I can do.

[k9sar]

my first thing would be to check that the replacement of the distributer did not put it way out of timing. Pull the cap, pull the plug in cyl 1, use a long screwdriver or rod to determine when the cylinder is at TDC, look at the rotor to see if it is even close to the #1 firing position, check the timing marks to see if they are in the right vicinity of where they should be.

 

Beyond that, you claim the plugs and wires are good. Not sure how you checked them (looking for spark at the plug itself when cranking or just visually inspecting and checking resistance on the wires). Engines need 3 things... air, fire, and fuel and that they all be at the right time. Air is easy, fire can be checked by putting a loose plug in the end of the plug wire and holding it against the block while cranking to see if it sparks brightly (good plug and wire) or weak (bad plug or too high resistance in wire), fuel you can usually tell by smell if the spark plug is out or check the pressure on the rail. Then look at timing and, since you played with the distributer, I think that may be the source.

[k9sar]

and a side note... if a code tells you the knock sensor is bad and it's not the first one on the list and it's running rough, you probably don't need to replace it. USUALLY (enter disclaimer here) the code for the knock sensor is thrown due to some other issue making it run like crap. Always fix the first things first.

 

Do you remember what the codes actually were? Don't recall seeing one that says to replace the distributor.

[erichasbell]

Okay that sounds right and I did check the plug wires against the block not sure how accurate that is but they all had spark. I am going to check the timing next. As soon as a qualified mechanic friend can come help me there's alot I can do by myself but I don't put that on my list. If I wasn't working with such a shirt time span I would give it a shot.

 

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[erichasbell]

The actual code said ignition primary confirmed code 1320 and I talked to several mechanics locally who said its a distributor problem and my research on forums all pointed the same way.

 

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[erichasbell]

I don't remember the other 2 codes.

 

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[k9sar]

I have a 95 so I'm not sure if the 96 has an individual coil, multiple or built-in. Anyone? anyone?

 

but "The most common cause that will trigger the P1320 code is the ignition coils, one or more ignition coils may have failed. Even tough the coils may be working OK, the resistance for one or more of the coils is greater or smaller that what the Engine Control Module (ECM) is expecting. Measuring the resistance with the coil out of the vehicle may not show any failures, usually the coil fails under heavy conditions (hard acceleration) or certain temperatures.

The P1320 code means that there is problem with the "Ignition Coil" or the wire to the ignition coil. For some models without individual ignition coils the Ignition Coil is inside the distributor and the distributor need to be replaced to fix the problem."

 

[jyeager]

I have a 95 so I'm not sure if the 96 has an individual coil, multiple or built-in. Anyone? anyone?

 

but "The most common cause that will trigger the P1320 code is the ignition coils, one or more ignition coils may have failed. Even tough the coils may be working OK, the resistance for one or more of the coils is greater or smaller that what the Engine Control Module (ECM) is expecting. Measuring the resistance with the coil out of the vehicle may not show any failures, usually the coil fails under heavy conditions (hard acceleration) or certain temperatures.

 

The P1320 code means that there is problem with the "Ignition Coil" or the wire to the ignition coil. For some models without individual ignition coils the Ignition Coil is inside the distributor and the distributor need to be replaced to fix the problem."

 

 

 

My '97 has the coil in the distributor I believe...so his 96 would too. So replacing the distributor wasn't a bad idea given that code.

Don't know who replaced the distributor. If it was the OP, then checking it's position is obviously the first step. If it was a paid mechanic...how could it have been returned in non-running condition?

So I suppose this was done by the OP.

 

That's probably all it is.

[slpknot1514]

Just yesterday, my '96 SE Green 4WD 5-speed started up just fine. Backed it up, pulled forward. After coming to a stop at the garage door, my "Check Engine" lights up. Since everything was running just fine, I shut it off. After 5 min, turning the ignition switch every minute and hearing it turn but not crank, I finally resorted to pumping the pedal like my 1st car, a '74 Pontiac Catalina. It slowly started to crank, coughed, and fired up. Everything ran fine for the next 8 hours and 470 miles as I didn't turn it off til I got home from Cleveland. Today, no issues. Runs as it always has. O'Reilly's Bosch code talker said: #1 Knock Sensor is DEAD #2 Coolant Loop. Guy at O'Reilly's said that meant a bad thermostat. Don't recall any wires going to the thermostat... 225000 mile on original engine and transmission. new timing belt job and alternator @ 210000. My '96 LE Black 4WD Auto has thrown multiple codes for years, including the knock and O2 sensors. It recently started exhibiting the driving issue you refer to. To a point, it almost freezes up while being driven. I can't drive it right now it's so bad. Started out of the blue. My mechanic said it was probly the distributer. I have one from a '02 Xterra I put in my '95 SE Green 4WD Auto. Hopefully it will work. However, I may just drop a newer engine into them. Any reason I shouldn't?

[slpknot1514]

Oh yea, '96 green needs rear main seal and '96 black leaks oil from lots of places. But, chassis are good and both have LSD's, new tires, struts and shocks.