Sagittarian Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 The vg30de is a dual overhead cam engine. Although it shares the vg designation it's a different beast. Keep in mind that 4wd vehicles benefit more from torque than horsepower. For me the question is how can I get more torque from this little engine? Other than doing a vg33 swap. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk I'm abundantly aware of the need for torque over HP and although this is my first Pathfinder, this is just one of many 4x4 I have owned. If you reread my post you will notice that the reference to the vg30de was just that, a reference for the HP and Torq rates that I am looking for. I also chose to state the specifics to the build of the vg30e I will be doing. As I stated, I just want to make sure I'm making a 5 hr motor, not a 5 min motor. Pictured below is a 66 bronco that I actually built from the ground up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 MULLET!!! Ehem. Nice truck! So, if you want to upgrade and you are pulling/working on the motor, I highly recommend that you ditch the VG30 (actually, just sell it as a running motor) and install a VG33. VG30E produced 153 hp (114 kW) and 182 lb·ft (247 N·m). VG33E, with 168 hp (125 kW) and 196 lb·ft (266 N·m) torque. Add VG30e cams (stock, euro or stage 1 performance), intake/headers and full exhaust (with all the other factory VG30 stuff on it) and it you will have a bullet proof runner producing 180-190hp/200+ lb-ft that passes smog. Bolts up the same, minor bracket work for accessories, no hurting the motor, no detonation, no ecu/injector change. It is running everything at the limits, but within spec... All documented here Bud, so time to look around a bit. B 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanicalbaron Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 I'm abundantly aware of the need for torque over HP and although this is my first Pathfinder, this is just one of many 4x4 I have owned. If you reread my post you will notice that the reference to the vg30de was just that, a reference for the HP and Torq rates that I am looking for. I also chose to state the specifics to the build of the vg30e I will be doing. As I stated, I just want to make sure I'm making a 5 hr motor, not a 5 min motor. Pictured below is a 66 bronco that I actually built from the ground up. Love those old broncos, wish I had one. I think maybe you took my post out of context. To produce the horse power and torque numbers you want from a vg30 I'm not sure is possible with a naturally aspirated engine. Seems that the best way to go with our older pathfinders is a vg33 swap. I am curious if with a more aggressive cam, higher compression, remapped ecm, and maybe some port work on the heads what kind of numbers could be achieved. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagittarian Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 From the sound of things, rather than putting all that into a vg30, if I put some of that into the vg33, ie, cam, headers and a remap, I would be better off in the long run and probably achieve better numbers. That is great, Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagittarian Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 I will admit... I miss that Bronco, it was vicious! Fiberglass body, tilt out doghouse. dana 30 short axles, dana 44 drive shafts, ford power lock front diff, detroit locker rear diff. 4.88 gearing. C6 tranny, NP 203 transfer case, 351W with, Holley 650 dual line, dual pump sitting on a torquer 2 intake, 10.5:1 compression. 488 lift 288 duration cam, roller rockers. 44"x18.5" Gumbo Monster Mudders It was a BEAST! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagittarian Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 And yes, rocking the mullet, but in my defense... It was like 1993 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagittarian Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Another question. I read the post about the cold air system from what I was able to gather from everyone... Adding a K&N high flow to the stock box is almost as good without the worry of getting it wet, Yes? And I'm not into the loud raspy noisy exhaust. I like stealth and making all that ruckus is not stealth... My thought, using a standard muffler that is designed for a larger motor. Like using a muffler for like a 1978 350 v8... Or... A muffler for a 4.3 L motor. I'm increasing exhaust flow and still keeping it quiet, thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mo3chang Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Yeah my truck has no muffler because of budget reasons because the one i wanted was too pricy at the time I just needed a new cat welded for emmitions. It sounds like a ricer 240 and I know everyone in my parking structure hates me at 5 am when I go to work. My other ride is 650 vstar with shorts so not much better. Performs great and had a noticeable difference in acceleration. As far the kn and filters. the stock air box rib hose doesn't seem to be as free flowing as a straight fabricated pipe pipe with inserts for sensors. The eBay kit is a crap. Its pieced together with nylon nipples for connections that don't sit flush. It needs some customozing to seal air leaks and remove obvious obstuructions. So if you want bolt on don't buy the kit I was disappointed I should have gone to home depot to piece it together for less Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagittarian Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Where is a good place to get a fresh rebuilt engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Path_68CJ Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 MULLET!!! Ehem. Nice truck! So, if you want to upgrade and you are pulling/working on the motor, I highly recommend that you ditch the VG30 (actually, just sell it as a running motor) and install a VG33. VG30E produced 153 hp (114 kW) and 182 lb·ft (247 N·m). VG33E, with 168 hp (125 kW) and 196 lb·ft (266 N·m) torque. Add VG30e cams (stock, euro or stage 1 performance), intake/headers and full exhaust (with all the other factory VG30 stuff on it) and it you will have a bullet proof runner producing 180-190hp/200+ lb-ft that passes smog. Bolts up the same, minor bracket work for accessories, no hurting the motor, no detonation, no ecu/injector change. It is running everything at the limits, but within spec... All documented here Bud, so time to look around a bit. B I agree. Very happy with what I have, though its a little more built than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sagittarian Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Am I understanding this correctly... A VG30E bored 30 over is a VG33E? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Not really. The cylinder walls on the VG30 aren't very thick whereas the VG33 walls are... trying to bore a VG30 to a VG33 results in cracked blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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