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Firing issue


HBrandon
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So I've got the vg30 and I recently did a head job and now it won't run, timing is right, dizzy is in correct position at tdc, I've got spark and fuel but no fire.. Any idea what my problem might be? Thanks in advance y'all.

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You can't a mod will pip on here soon enough and snip them away. Just keep in mind that tap talk will say an error,but you yourself should refresh the page to check if it indeed posted. You are not the first and won't be the last.

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Thanks for covering the Crapatalk issue guys. Also, HBrandon, please don't create multiple threads about the same issue either. I know you are frustrated, but all that does is confuse any answers given and makes future searches for information difficult.

 

So on to the matter... Rule of law for firing is air, fuel, spark, compression and timing. You have confirmed the first 3, so compression and timing are next.

Compression check is easy enough, I'll assume you know how to do that, I just don't see it mentioned that you have done it.

Timing... You had the timing belt off, are you certain you put it back on correctly?

 

B

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So the weird part is that I have compression and the timing is right( checked with timing light) but it still won't run, somebody told me it could be a sensor but weren't to clear on which sensor would keep the engine from running.

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How are you checking the distributor timing with a timing light on an engine that doesn't run? It needs to be running at 750-800RPM with the TPS unplugged for that. Having the belt a tooth off, I'll run but weak. I've never had one run with the distributor a tooth off, but some people have.

 

If you have spark and injector pulse the CAS is good.

 

Does it do anything at all or just crank?

 

Pull the codes out of the ECU. If anything sensor related is amiss it'll know about it in a few revolutions of the starter.

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Crank Angle Sensor in the distributor.

 

When you put the belt on were all the marks lined up with the tooth count 40 between the left and right cam gear marks and 43 teeth between the cam gear and crank? Engine at TDC on the compression stroke? Distributor rotor pointing at the NO. 1 terminal?

 

If you don't know I'd suggest tearing it back apart and making sure it's right.

 

There's a very thorough write up on timing belt jobs in the garage section along with a ton of info on the subject that may help. As well as self diagnostics.

Edited by Kingman
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So I checked my timing, it was good, spark was good, ( I might have the fuel lines mixed up but I'm pretty sure they aren't) and I moved the distributor one tooth because it didn't look right and when I cranked it over the engine ran for a good ten seconds then cut out and it won't start again

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So lemme see here... you turn it on ( fuel pump whirring?) it cranks, didn't run, ran for a sec, then ran for 10 seconds. Can I assume correctly that the two wire plug ( orange and black connector) on the "electrical tower" on the passenger side valve cover is unplugged, that the TPS is also unplugged and that you've checked that there is a good ground for the MAF? With all of that you should be able to teach the computer that - and where - you want the engine to idle with the IACV screw. IF it doesn't turn over and run then you'll need to go over everything in detail again. That's all I can help!

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Did you remove the fuel lines from the rail? I had the same issue, spent a whole weekend chasing it, then thought, let's just try this, I swapped the feed and return lines on the fuel rain and she cranked right up. Just a thought.

 

 

Bubba.....

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As a thought: remove the positive off of the battery for 15 minutes or so, put it back on and then check the codes after you try to fire it again... that may throw some codes for you. Also, I noticed that I needed to have to light wired and powered to get any fire from the engine....

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