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Rear Passenger door won't open on my 98 Pathy


BrianD
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How DOOO I get this door open to fix it? The exterior handle is "flopping in the wind" and interior handle seems normal.

I can't remove the interior door panel with the door closed because it's tight against the rubber weather seal and the steel lip of the door frame that holds it.

I removed the plastic parts around the interior handle and both rods are connected but I can't pull it out far enuff to look inside.

Called the local Nissan service manager - he doesn't have a clue but offered to bring it in to look at for $100 an hour..DUH!

Help me pls and thanx.

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You should have no problem pulling the weather stripping out even with the door closed. Just did it on mine. However, the real problem is that it doesn't look like you could remove the door panel anyway with the seat cushion where it is.

 

It sounds like it's a crappy combination of a broken outer handle and the child lock being engaged. If you suspect it's the child lock, a butter knife (or even the key) can be used to disengage it...and the reason I know is because I just accidentally locked myself in my back seat :lol: (I have kids so I use the safety locks). I was able to use my key to push the lever over and open the door from the inside without removing the weather stripping. It does sound like your interior handle and door lock still function, right?

 

If you have lock-out service on your insurance, you can also utilize that. Any locksmith should be able to handle this. You could also take off the interior panel on the opposite door to see if you can get any reference.

 

If the latch seems jammed, try pressing the door in and out with some force (and handle pulled) to see if that un-jams it.

 

Good luck!

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I just did this last week. Pull the weatherstrip. Then you have to remove the trim panel. I broke tge clips but got it off safe. Then i reached into the latch and moved the trigger to open the door. My latch was bad. Not child lock. But same remedy.

 

Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk

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You should have no problem pulling the weather stripping out even with the door closed. Just did it on mine. However, the real problem is that it doesn't look like you could remove the door panel anyway with the seat cushion where it is.

 

It sounds like it's a crappy combination of a broken outer handle and the child lock being engaged. If you suspect it's the child lock, a butter knife (or even the key) can be used to disengage it...and the reason I know is because I just accidentally locked myself in my back seat :lol: (I have kids so I use the safety locks). I was able to use my key to push the lever over and open the door from the inside without removing the weather stripping. It does sound like your interior handle and door lock still function, right?

 

If you have lock-out service on your insurance, you can also utilize that. Any locksmith should be able to handle this. You could also take off the interior panel on the opposite door to see if you can get any reference.

 

If the latch seems jammed, try pressing the door in and out with some force (and handle pulled) to see if that un-jams it.

 

Good luck!

Thanx man - Lukd at the other rear door and the child lock slider - removed a bit of the weather strip on the "broken" door and saw that it is in the unlockd position...and it SOUNDS like the inner handle is functioning properly. I gotta get someone to operate the driver's power door locks as I apply a shoulder.

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I just did this last week. Pull the weatherstrip. Then you have to remove the trim panel. I broke tge clips but got it off safe. Then i reached into the latch and moved the trigger to open the door. My latch was bad. Not child lock. But same remedy.

 

Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk

Haven't got that far yet ..but - what do U mean the latch was bad? How so? Did a locking rod fall off? Did U have to replace the latch? Sorry for the rash but by remedy,do U mean, apply force on the outside while trying to open from the inside? Thanx for yer help.

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I just did this last week. Pull the weatherstrip. Then you have to remove the trim panel. I broke tge clips but got it off safe. Then i reached into the latch and moved the trigger to open the door. My latch was bad. Not child lock. But same remedy.

 

Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk

SOOooooo.. I got the trim panel off the bolt under the arm rest and the weather stripping & there's NO WAY and panel removal tool will fit, or anything else I can find to pry the panel from the steel door - so even tho I pull on the door handle the panel ain't moving. I tried with a house hold prybar for removing wooden trim in there too - no way. I can't even get a screw driver in there to get the inner panel off. So ..how'd U get it off again? Thanx - Brian

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Wouldn't you have the clearance if you removed the lower seat cushion? I thought it was only held in by a couple bolts. Removing door panels is trivial, just need a little angle to tilt the bottom away from the door. Shouldn't incur any damage this way.

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Wouldn't you have the clearance if you removed the lower seat cushion? I thought it was only held in by a couple bolts. Removing door panels is trivial, just need a little angle to tilt the bottom away from the door. Shouldn't incur any damage this way.

I have removed the cushion! - that's just to get room to work on it really. Prolm is getting ..anything!.. past the steel door lip & up under it so U can pry on the door panel - there's MAYBE 1/2 to 3/4" now installed properly and IF I can get retainers pulled out - there'll be no room between, but thanx - I'm gonna try the rad hose removal tool method ....when I get one. Thanks

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So even with the seat cushion out, that doesn't given enough clearance to pull the interior panel off? Or is there just not enough space on the side of the panel even with the weatherstrip removed to pry (separate) the panels from the door? You should be able to use some sort of 90° or hook-like tool (like a straightened metal coat hanger with a bend at the end of the wire, or a paint can opener) to work the clips loose from the door. You only need move the panel maybe 1/2" from the door.

 

I'm seriously tempted to try this on my truck tonight :laugh:

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So even with the seat cushion out, that doesn't given enough clearance to pull the interior panel off? Or is there just not enough space on the side of the panel even with the weatherstrip removed to pry (separate) the panels from the door? You should be able to use some sort of 90° or hook-like tool (like a straightened metal coat hanger with a bend at the end of the wire, or a paint can opener) to work the clips loose from the door. You only need move the panel maybe 1/2" from the door.

 

I'm seriously tempted to try this on my truck tonight :laugh:

YA well the only way to get behind the panel is with a rad hose removal tool like one guy said above. there's NO room to pry (without damaging the panel I shud add ) - I gotta get one today and see how that goes. Agreed - it only has to come out 1/2" until it goes up. And U can't remove the plastic..? Foot guard"? on the bottom of the door either cause it's gotta come up before U pull it out..and the door is in the way. But hey thanx eh? If u DOO remove the panel PLS! lemme know how it goes!

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Ok, so I attempted it on my truck...and I understand the frustration now. Guess I hadn't noticed before, but the pinch weld where the weatherstrip goes overlaps the door panel more than I noticed previously.

 

Had to look up a "hose removal tool"...looks to be just a pick tool. I can see how that would probably be the best option (it's basically what I was describing the straightened hanger for, but having tried that approach around the door sill, it is a little more difficult but I didn't have time to finesse it).

 

It seems plausible that you could remove the interior handle to get some better access. There's a bolt holding it, but it must be pushed to the rear of the door in order to clear three hooks on the assembly. However, I tried it on mine and it seems like the rods make it difficult to slide the piece. I tried with a prybar, and felt I got about 50% of the way, but didn't want to risk breaking anything. You could break that off, but you're still a good distance away from the latching assembly. However, it would give you a way to pull the door panel away from the door in that area, perhaps with enough room to get some fingers and a screwdriver in there to poke around. But for sure, you'd be able to tell if one of the rods came detached (and could be used as a tool).

 

For reference, here's what the back of the part looks like:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

A little hard to see it, but at the 12, 3, and 6 o'clock positions relative to the bolt hole are plastic hooks that slide into the door metal. Even if you broke those off, the center bolt hole would still hold it in place. A replacement is inexpensive (p/n 80670-3W405 or 80670-3W40A) if you're willing to break it.

 

How does the interior handle door lever and lock lever "feel" compared to the driver's side?

 

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Ok, so I attempted it on my truck...and I understand the frustration now. Guess I hadn't noticed before, but the pinch weld where the weatherstrip goes overlaps the door panel more than I noticed previously.

 

Had to look up a "hose removal tool"...looks to be just a pick tool. I can see how that would probably be the best option (it's basically what I was describing the straightened hanger for, but having tried that approach around the door sill, it is a little more difficult but I didn't have time to finesse it).

 

It seems plausible that you could remove the interior handle to get some better access. There's a bolt holding it, but it must be pushed to the rear of the door in order to clear three hooks on the assembly. However, I tried it on mine and it seems like the rods make it difficult to slide the piece. I tried with a prybar, and felt I got about 50% of the way, but didn't want to risk breaking anything. You could break that off, but you're still a good distance away from the latching assembly. However, it would give you a way to pull the door panel away from the door in that area, perhaps with enough room to get some fingers and a screwdriver in there to poke around. But for sure, you'd be able to tell if one of the rods came detached (and could be used as a tool).

 

For reference, here's what the back of the part looks like:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

A little hard to see it, but at the 12, 3, and 6 o'clock positions relative to the bolt hole are plastic hooks that slide into the door metal. Even if you broke those off, the center bolt hole would still hold it in place. A replacement is inexpensive (p/n 80670-3W405 or 80670-3W40A) if you're willing to break it.

 

How does the interior handle door lever and lock lever "feel" compared to the driver's side?

 

WOW! Thanx man! I haven't had time yet to go get the "hook tool" yet - but thanx for all that! The inner door handle on the "broken side" feels the exact same as the other side - same sound too! The rods are attached as well & the child lock is also off too! WTF?

I may have to take U up on breaking the handle clips if nuthin' else werx. I don't wanna be climbing in there on my hands and knees every time I wanna load my drum kit - which is quite often. Gotta teach soon - maybe I can get the rad hose removal tool afterwards - nope it'll be too late - Tomorrow. but - THANX for all yer help and time - when I know more about this I'll post it. Cheers pal! What a great website!

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No problem, really hope you figure it out.

 

I would expect your local parts or hardware store to have a suitable pick kit available, by the way. I see them in the cheap tools sections of Ace Hardware and Harbor Freight all the time...I'm surprised I don't already have a set. The come with a few different shaped ones; I would think you'd want the kit.

 

Also, here's a pic of the rear passenger latch for some reference. (BTW, I usually search eBay for parts to see if listings have actual pics of a part.)

 

s-l400.jpg

 

The white body in the back is the door lock actuator, the black knobby thing on the left is the child lock, and the top green clip is for the locking lever, and the right green clip is the door handle.

 

s-l400.jpg

 

The blue clip is where the exterior door handle rod connects too. Since it's a separate conenction, even if the exterior handle is loose, there's no reason the interior handle wouldn't still work (unless it came loose too...not likely). This means either the locking mechanism has failed somehow, or something is jamming the catch piece that would release the striker bolt.

 

My guess is the latter, and that the rubber/nylon/plastic piece inside the striker channel that absorbs the striker during the secondary latching (1st latch is when the door isn't fully closed) has become dislodged and is preventing the striker catch from rotating. (Or, at least this is exactly what happened to the latch assembly on the used rear tire carrier I picked up earlier this year and had to replace). From what I could see earlier when trying on my truck, the channel is somewhat accessible with the weatherstrip removed, but you'd definitely need something like a hanger to reach in and poke around.

 

I almost wonder if the rubber insulator on the striker could also be jamming things up. When you put a shoulder (or more likely a knee) to the door from the inside, does it feel like there's any play on the door at all?

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My latch failed on mine. Also had a bent rod somehow? I guess i take for granted this seeing as how ive had to do it for years in the bodyshop. Once the hardware is off and you get what you can with the hook tool, muscle it straight up. This will shear off tge trim clips( and a few mounts). Nothing some good superglue and baking soda cant fix. Its super tight. Pretend the trucks on fire and its the only way out. The post carnage pictures!

 

Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk

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No problem, really hope you figure it out.

 

I would expect your local parts or hardware store to have a suitable pick kit available, by the way. I see them in the cheap tools sections of Ace Hardware and Harbor Freight all the time...I'm surprised I don't already have a set. The come with a few different shaped ones; I would think you'd want the kit.

 

Also, here's a pic of the rear passenger latch for some reference. (BTW, I usually search eBay for parts to see if listings have actual pics of a part.)

 

s-l400.jpg

 

The white body in the back is the door lock actuator, the black knobby thing on the left is the child lock, and the top green clip is for the locking lever, and the right green clip is the door handle.

 

s-l400.jpg

 

The blue clip is where the exterior door handle rod connects too. Since it's a separate conenction, even if the exterior handle is loose, there's no reason the interior handle wouldn't still work (unless it came loose too...not likely). This means either the locking mechanism has failed somehow, or something is jamming the catch piece that would release the striker bolt.

 

My guess is the latter, and that the rubber/nylon/plastic piece inside the striker channel that absorbs the striker during the secondary latching (1st latch is when the door isn't fully closed) has become dislodged and is preventing the striker catch from rotating. (Or, at least this is exactly what happened to the latch assembly on the used rear tire carrier I picked up earlier this year and had to replace). From what I could see earlier when trying on my truck, the channel is somewhat accessible with the weatherstrip removed, but you'd definitely need something like a hanger to reach in and poke around.

 

I almost wonder if the rubber insulator on the striker could also be jamming things up. When you put a shoulder (or more likely a knee) to the door from the inside, does it feel like there's any play on the door at all?

You dont want tge standard kit for this. A radiator hose pick is heavy duty. About 6 inches long. Those pics are about 2 inches. Great tools, just not for this.

 

Sent from my LGMS395 using Tapatalk

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How DOOO I get this door open to fix it? The exterior handle is "flopping in the wind" and interior handle seems normal.

I can't remove the interior door panel with the door closed because it's tight against the rubber weather seal and the steel lip of the door frame that holds it.

I removed the plastic parts around the interior handle and both rods are connected but I can't pull it out far enuff to look inside.

Called the local Nissan service manager - he doesn't have a clue but offered to bring it in to look at for $100 an hour..DUH!

Help me pls and thanx.

UP DATE! I DID get the panel off and caused some damage BUT!!! I do wish to help anyone else that might have this prolm in the future - Open the outer handle best U can and spray some Realeasall or some kinda lube thru the small holes FIRST!!! before going thru all this BS! Mine might have opened properly if I'd done this cause all it needed was lube - NOTHING was broken or disconnected. Thanx guys for yer help.OH ya - I did get a "hook tool" from Princess Auto for $9 which helped me get the panel off with only one clip being slighted damaged.Pix later.

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Glad to hear you got it open. Like I've always told the probies at the firehouse while teaching the forcible entry class "try before you pry", lol. Too many times I'd catch them off guard and they'd be beating the snot out of a door, I'd stop them, turn the knob and open the door! Always helps to try the simple things first, but don't get me wrong, I've had plenty of moments where I've overlooked the easy route too. Thanks for sharing your journey and resolution.

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  • 1 month later...

UP DATE! I DID get the panel off and caused some damage BUT!!! I do wish to help anyone else that might have this prolm in the future - Open the outer handle best U can and spray some Realeasall or some kinda lube thru the small holes FIRST!!! before going thru all this BS! Mine might have opened properly if I'd done this cause all it needed was lube - NOTHING was broken or disconnected. Thanx guys for yer help.OH ya - I did get a "hook tool" from Princess Auto for $9 which helped me get the panel off with only one clip being slighted damaged.Pix later.

 

I am glad that I found your post, thank you! I was ready to take door apart, read your post and tried spraying some Boeshield T-9 into small holes; didn't take very much and the handle grabbed hold and opened the door. Apparantly nothing was broken or disconnected, as in your case. This is on a 97' Pathy SE.

Edited by CALPATHY
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  • 2 weeks later...

That's GREAT! I'm glad I re-posted my results and that I cud help someone else with the same prolm. Who wudda thunk that a little lube wud save a giant headache/ panel damage/ time/ and money.?

Cheers.

 

A couple weeks ago my driver's side rear door wouldn't open from either side, the handle flopping around on the outside. I read this somewhere online, tried it and it worked great!

 

Had the same problem with a '99 Pathfinder. Took Bob's suggestion and pounded (gently) with a rubber mallet on the outside door handle, but before I did that, I sprayed Kroll rust buster/lubricant into the handle openings when the handle was fully opened. The handle had no resistance before the procedure and just kind of flipped opened and closed. As I was tapping, slight resistance began to be felt at the full opening position of the handle. I continued to close the handle, tap some more, open the handle and get a bit more contact/resistance as I proceeded. After about 10 minutes of tapping, pulling open, spraying some more, closing and tapping again, getting a bit more resistance at full opening each time, I tapped the handle closed again and tried to open the door from the inside....Voila, she popped open.

 

 

 

I also worked the lock with the remote a few times while tapping. No problems since!

Edited by anyexcuse
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