BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) So after procuring my sons new ride 2 weeks ago , 95 Pathfinder with 95k og miles , we decided to drive it for 100 miles and make sure there are no surprises. Well , 107 miles later and it runs like a champ! So , the list is as such ..... Front diff - syn fluid rear diff - syn fluid MT - syn fluid power steering and brake fluid flush - syn spark plugs Air filter cap and rotor fuel filter water pump thermosta timing belt and components coolant external belts valve cover gaskets camshaft seals whew .... that should dial him in for about 60k miles already flushed , drained and fill the motor oil Edited October 2, 2015 by BendRed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Alright all stripped down ! Timing belt , water pump , crank seal , cam seals x2 . Yup , someone replaced the timing belt recently but tensioner was old , cam seals were leaking like a sive and water pump was hella crusty . good call . Time to clean up the mess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Funny how people will change a timing belt and leave the seals/tensioner alone... I go in and change EVERYTHING, if I plan to keep the vehicle, that is. It isn't that much more work or cost, and who wants to wonder where the oil is coming or change the T-belt AGAIN when the water pump fails... Two points: I didn't see thermostat bypass hose on the list. Make sure to change it when you are there, it is a biatch to get to otherwise. The 1993.5 on up timing belt with the rounded teeth are rated to 105k miles, not the 60k of the square ones, so don't change it prematurely. Congrats on having one of the few WD21s out there that have less miles than mine. If it doesn't make it to 250k+ miles, your son either flogged it to death without maintenance, or crashed it. I hope for neither, and seeing another 500k Pathy on the forums... You do know about overfilling the tranny? 5.1 liters is recommended, check out the Garage/TSB section for the thread. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) Oh sorry . Bypass hose is on as well as the two seals for the coolant passages attached to the bypass hose . Also , upper and lower radiator hoses . currently cleaning parts and the boy wants to paint the timing covers , pulleys and what not red to match his rig. lol thanx for heads up on the MT fluid Radiator is currently in the tank getting cleaned and pressure tested. Edited October 2, 2015 by BendRed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) btw - what is the recessed , looks like maybe 14mm allen head screw next to the right cam ? It was completely covered in RTV that someone had placed there and had old crusty coolant all running from it . Is that coolant pressure relief or something ? Need to address that leak before reassembly. Same thing Doc Bill is addressing here , halfway down in the thread - pic included Edited October 2, 2015 by BendRed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Funny how people will change a timing belt and leave the seals/tensioner alone... I go in and change EVERYTHING, if I plan to keep the vehicle, that is. It isn't that much more work or cost, and who wants to wonder where the oil is coming or change the T-belt AGAIN when the water pump fails... Two points: I didn't see thermostat bypass hose on the list. Make sure to change it when you are there, it is a biatch to get to otherwise. The 1993.5 on up timing belt with the rounded teeth are rated to 105k miles, not the 60k of the square ones, so don't change it prematurely. Congrats on having one of the few WD21s out there that have less miles than mine. If it doesn't make it to 250k+ miles, your son either flogged it to death without maintenance, or crashed it. I hope for neither, and seeing another 500k Pathy on the forums... You do know about overfilling the tranny? 5.1 liters is recommended, check out the Garage/TSB section for the thread. B I always change the T belt when it comes out - my cost is $26 for a gates belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanicalbaron Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 btw - what is the recessed , looks like maybe 14mm allen head screw next to the right cam ? It was completely covered in RTV that someone had placed there and had old crusty coolant all running from it . Is that coolant pressure relief or something ? Need to address that leak before reassembly. Same thing Doc Bill is addressing here , halfway down in the thread - pic included I've heard that referred to as a welch plug. Seen a few leaking over the years including mine. They can be really difficult to remove. If you can get it out reseal it with a liquid Teflon sealant. If you can't get it out (forgive me please guys!) Seal it with JB weld. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 I've heard that referred to as a welch plug. Seen a few leaking over the years including mine. They can be really difficult to remove. If you can get it out reseal it with a liquid Teflon sealant. If you can't get it out (forgive me please guys!) Seal it with JB weld. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Thanx for the input . I will not hold that advice against ya ... necessity is the mother of invention Love the avatar BTW . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 2, 2015 Author Share Posted October 2, 2015 Ok , removed it , cleaned it and resealed it with teflon glue and some ... Right Stuff . That Right Stuff is the BOMB! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 I'm not exactly sure what plug you are talking about, but is it one of the burp plugs for the cooling system? Sounds like you have it covered regardless... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 B its a plug under the cam pulley. Big ass hex plug. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 adamzan - thats the one ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Yesterday my son and I ran to the shop to put in the Cam seals and the crank seal ( front) . Cam seals went to problem , as usual , but the crank seal was a bugger and I think the kit I got gave me the wrong one . Got all bogeyed up trying to install it ( complete with lots of syl glide) . It was weird as the kit gave me 3 cam seals and one larger one ( which was black) which I assumed was the crank seal. Once holding the black seal up to the crank it was obvious it was WAY to big so I grabbed the 3rd cam seal and it was an almost fit ... so I figured the cam seals and crank seals must be the same on this application. Well the crank seal would not seat even with a 36mm deep socket as a helper . Guess Ill order another and see if it was a Manu error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Update .... OK were good. Got another crank seal from Napa and it went on no sweat . We can proceed now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Good! I figured you got the wrong one... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Not much time today to work on the sons pathfinder but did get the T Belt on and the cover . Yeah , I know its red , but so is the truck and he painted them so ..... there clean and red ... for now . LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Looks pretty sweet, hows she running now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Not done yet . What you see in the above pic is as far as we have gotten. Hopefully more today . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Nice clean paint makes it easier to spot problems, and hey, the kid has a sense of ownership now... I bet he is looking forward to driving it, and you to it being out of the shop... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Nice clean paint makes it easier to spot problems, and hey, the kid has a sense of ownership now... I bet he is looking forward to driving it, and you to it being out of the shop... B Indeed ! Funny though ..... he is 13 Although this is not the 1st vehicle we had bought for him. Started when he was 8 and I bought him a 71 VW Beetle shell for $50. He then sold it and bought and sold for last 5 years till we got to this one and decided ... this one is a keeper ! He can already drive a stick shift mind you. He works in the shop in the summer and I pay him an hourly wage . My business is all family ran , owned and operated . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 OK , so timing belt , water pump ,thermostat job is completed . Now to move to the tune up portion. I love how Nissan designers decided to use Philips screws for hold down / clamp down components ....... NOT! Distributor cap Philips bolts are so rusted they have been stripped by PO trying to get them off . Ugh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 They are also brass, IIRC, so that doesn't help a lot. And I've noticed in the last few years that a surprising amount of people aren't capable of selecting the proper Phillips fit the job... POs tend to be terrible at that and wiring. I like to cut a slot in them and use a flat head. Or drill them out with a left handed drill bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 OK , so we are done! I finished the tune up and fluids today . Well actually i didnt change the fluids as they looked fresh ..... fluid came out of every fill plug and when I put my finger on it ... it was basically fresh . All but the rear diff . Did that today with syn. #6 spark plug ... the bitch that everyone complains about . Simple ... have wobble extensions and pull the 2 10mm screws holding the A/C line on the firewall off. then pull that line forward. Walla , plenty o room with wobble extensions. Dist cap phillips were buggered so I just drilled the heads of em off , then removed cap then hand unwound the left of the studs . Rig is Done and ready for some DAMN SNOW! Im a snow hound Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BendRed Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Off on her real maiden voyage .... cheers . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belldimension Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 Real nice!!! I intend on doing this soon. Found the easiest way to remove #6 spark plug. 8" extension with a swivel socket then a 12" extension. Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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