taylorhayis Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 So I made a rookie mistake last night, one that I have made countless times on everything mechanical I have ever owned - I fixed multiple things at once, and now I can't diagnose the problem... I have been losing all power when I'm off road, as soon as I get to a hectic bit and rev hard for a while, the engine starts shuddering and I have to rev really high before releasing the clutch, or else I'll stall. I can sometimes limp back home, but then after a while it comes back. My latest outing had us using ALL of our snatch straps to get another vehicle in a spot with traction... but I digress. Something has been amiss. I decided to replace my coil, after reckoning it was the most probable cause. But while in there, I did the distributer rotor, as the one in there was really bad. And I thought I'd do plugs too. And then the guy at the parts house said I should get a set of points, which I had never heard of - so I did the points too. But I just pulled the old ones out, and stuck the new set in... They are wired up fine, and I set them as close to spec (0.46mm) as I could by guessing, but I'm still getting no spark. Turns over fine, but not catching. Just before bed last night, I grabbed a 12v light and stuck it on the positive wire of the coil, and ground (with the key on) and got nothing... I think I am supposed to get 12v? Did I blow an ignition fuse? Are the points THAT sensitive? I'll grab my feeler gauges and try again tonight, but now I have a broken down truck at home, with my shop 5km away... bloody hell. Thanks in advance for the thoughts guys! Cheers, Taylor (bonus pictures, because I know you love pictures!) New parts! The dizzy before I touched it... I made some roof racks! From an old gate. Still need to paint it... Total cost for materials? $0 Pretty recent pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 (edited) Points? Sure enough, points and condenser. That doesn't have HEI? Nissan did away with points in 1976 in the states. Edited August 19, 2015 by PathyAndTheJets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 I'd start with the points, make sure you've got continuity between the contacts when they're supposed to be closed, then when you're sure they're making contact, make sure power is getting to the coil. There's a science to adjusting points but apart from the vague idea that a dwell meter tells you something helpful I've got nothing there. If the points drive you nuts, you can probably find a Pertronixs or similar solid-state ignitor. My dad and I replaced the points and condenser on our Scout with that just so it would have one less thing to go wrong. Just don't hook a Pertronix up backwards, that fries them instantly. Guess how I found that out! Looks like the distributor has vacuum advance as well. If it's still got power issues when you get spark back, the advance wouldn't be a bad thing to check for issues. Nice roof rack BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Ok, just to get it straight, you have the Z24 motor, right? I have a Z24 manual I can look into later, but for now... But I just pulled the old ones out, and stuck the new set in... They are wired up fine, and I set them as close to spec (0.46mm) as I could by guessing, but I'm still getting no spark. Turns over fine, but not catching. Just before bed last night, I grabbed a 12v light and stuck it on the positive wire of the coil, and ground (with the key on) and got nothing... I think I am supposed to get 12v? Sorry, but guessing is unacceptable. The points have a rider that contacts the central shaft that the rotor rides on, and that shaft is lobed like a cam. You have to rotate the motor by hand until the points are touching the high point of the lobe (to be as open as possible). That is when you adjust the point gap to the spec, and yes, it has to be very close in order to get the proper spark and timing. You should be able to turn the motor by hand with the ignition on and watch the points fire. Make sure you have spark there first... Did you change the condenser as well (usually done as a set), and make suer all the wires, clips are in the right place. The points should have come with a spot of grease, did you grease the point rider and dizzy shaft? Been a while, but pretty sure the system fires a spark out to the coil when the points open, the coil amplifies it, sends it to the rotor which puts it out to the wire and plug. I don't think you should have 12 volt power full time at the coil, but it has been so long, I'd have to look it up. Check to make sure you have power into the dizzy and that the points are set and firing first. Might want to change the dizzy cap, and perhps the wires as well, but I don't think that is the immediate issue. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 I thought all z24s were with 8 plugs not 4. The z20 and z18s were the only ones with 4 plugs IIRC. And like I said, I've never seen a Datsun or Nissan motor after 76 with points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Good call, you are right and I missed that. Maybe a KA? You have to notice though, he is in Australia, and they play by different rules... (why I asked for clarification) Do I have the electrical path described correctly? Pretty sure that is how my '78 VW works, but I haven't messed with that for a while either. It's only a 40 year old design at best... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PathyAndTheJets Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Need more engine pics. That looks like an L-series dizzy to me. I have a hard time believing that is factory, I don't know why they'd use an inferior ignition system on it. Overseas got fuel injection and turbos before the US market. But he got points at his parts store, which means they have it in their systems. I'm baffled. I think the coil gets power when the points are closed. Then it transforms it and sends it to the rotor, wires, plugs, and then ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Check the tabs inside the dist cap. I have seen some caps that the tabs were not all,the same length. Not being the same length, the rotor won't contact them properly and you will have issues. Nice thing is it won't cost you anything to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisco Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 (edited) I do not own a pathfinder, I have a king cab, 4x4, d21 with what i believe is the same engine as you, (z24s carburated, point ignition, 4 plugs, 1 ignition coil and external resistor and single points. I saw the second photo of your distributor that it has only 2 wires connected to the it, i have the same but the white wire on my distributor is black with yellow stripe on it, the blue one is the same on mine. The white on yours is the distributor / ignition ground if I'm not mistaken, i belive it must be the same on mine ... just different collors on wire. I have a ignition ground issue on my engine, if i disconnect the blue one the engine stops, but if i disconnect the black / yellow one nothing happens. The problem is that i keep burning my points and condenser , they may last one week at most and my ignition timing keeps fluctuate. What happens if you disconnect the white wire on your distributor ?? PS: sorry for my bad english.. Edited July 31, 2018 by Chrisco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Please see the following thread dedicated to /\ Chrisco's /\ issues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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