I need some hellp

[Halogen]

Oky today iv decided to change all my bushings from my pathy and after i changed the uca bushings and tension rod bushings, i`v found my self in a real big problem, that i can`t remove the bolt that holds the lower control arm bushing (down left). I tried to hit it with a hammer but it didn`t move at all,iv used some rust remover but same result just like its welded there...what can i do so i can remove the lca? Shuld i hit it until is gowing out and buy a new bolt ? my dad used to work on king kab`s (same model of bushing tipe) and he told me that i need to cut the bolt so i can remove the lca and then use a press to push it out...but i`m asking you guys how done it ? Its about 54419-B9500 ( Spindel Lower Arm).

Thanks for your hellp and hope to se some obtions....

[Precise1]

Have you tried heating with a torch, then ringing it (hitting the bolt head with a metal hammer)? Penetrating oil often needs time to wick in as well...

 

B

[Halogen]

I didin`t used any torch...next weekend i`l get my chance to work again on the suspension today i changed the left side , next sunday the i`l do the right side...i tryed to explain to my dad "lets use the torch" he sayed no because its usles" how u guys managed to get it out ? with what tools or "tactic"

 

[Halogen]

Oky i use the torch and nothing the dam bolt won`t move....kinda sad thing. Ok i run in another problem with the temperature drops most time when its cold i got a missfires and the engine stals but not to death the thing runs like this. I start the engine let her warm up like 10mins and if i wan`t to leave it starts to do missfires in the intake (like when u do popcorn) the rpm`s ar droping and they sudenly i meen instant go to 2-3k and it can`t be driven this way because the hole car is shaking roughly...if i let the car to warm up like 20 minutes or 30 minutes (i think when the thermostat opens it`s all normal...) she runs normal.What have i done:

- checked the ignition timing and is corect

- changed the coolant temperature sensor.

- changed the watter pump , timing belt , and thermostat with oem ones new!

- run a stage 5 diganostic and nothing displayed

- spark plugs new oem specification and remuved them out to see them and the engine runs oky

- changed the distribuitor cap and rotor with oem ones.

 

What to do i`m kinda runing out of options...what shuld i check next ? in the winter and Autumn i`m dead , when it was so hot in temperatures it was normal from the start to begining...

 

Edited August 24, 2015 by Halogen

[Pav]

Sounds to me it might be your MAF is on its last legs. Mine was doing similar things before it totally died and the truck would not start. It could also just be a problem with the connection wires to the MAF.

[Grenade]

I would look at the MAF or the Oxygen Sensor. Either one of these will cause similar problems. The MAF can only show these problems from 3k rpm plus, but its not to uncommon for it to have idle issues if its dirty.

 

Clean the MAF, then test.

 

Unplug the oxygen sensor, then test. Report back what you find.

 

HTH

[Halogen]

I would look at the MAF or the Oxygen Sensor. Either one of these will cause similar problems. The MAF can only show these problems from 3k rpm plus, but its not to uncommon for it to have idle issues if its dirty.

 

Clean the MAF, then test.

 

Unplug the oxygen sensor, then test. Report back what you find.

 

HTH

 

The car is runing normal on idle even if is cold or hot no rpm changes. The thing is happening when i try to take off. I`l do the things you guys sayed and will see what`s going on thanks for the answers i`l report back asap, meabe i`l post a video to.