RF600 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 So I am having a cutting out issue. When it acts up the check engine light does not come on. There doesn't seem to be a specific time when it does it. No specific throttle input. Nothing I can pinpoint to a certain time when it will do it. While driving it will cut out. Usually only for a couple seconds. Then it picks right back up. Even with the cruise control on it will do it. It will do it while driving around town. Sometimes it will die while sitting at a stop light. There is no rough idle, it just idles down and dies. It will start right back up. A couple times it didn't want to run when started. I had to keep my foot on the gas for a bit, then it would idle on its own. A little history on my rig. Within the last 10,000 miles I have done the following, distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, iac valve, iac controller, O2 sensor, coolant temp switch. I did pull 2 codes, 33 and 34. Since it cuts out at random I'm at a loss for where to look. I have not checked the injectors or fuel pressure. Ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 33 is O2 and 34 is knock sensor. Did you check the wiring/connection for the O2, or the voltage output? IIRC, it is 0-1 volt, with 1 being rich (cold) and 0 being lean. Make sure it changes voltage... The FSM says to check the canister purge and for air leaks for the condition of 'hesitation under normal conditions', page EC-60 of the 1995 version. Vapor lock? Try a different gas cap? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) The O2 is new. So the wiring up to where it plugs into the harness is good. I have not checked the voltage of the O2. I had to put a new O2 in because it failed smog last year. My assumption is the O2 is working properly since it passed easily after installing. I have not checked it though. As far as I know the fuel cap is original. I will look at the vacuum lines around the canister. The vacuum lines around the engine are good. I have inspected and changed out some bad ones. Edited July 27, 2015 by RF600 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 Vacuum lines are good. Today it started and ran really rough. The check engine light came on. The engine light turned off after a couple minutes. I wasn't around my place so I will hope it is stored in the ecu until I can pull the code and see if that will direct me what to look at next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 I checked the codes. 34, 51. The knock sensor is still there. Now I need to find some time to check out my injectors. I would assume the knock sensor is a result of a bad injector(s)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Well it looks like the injector for cylinder 2 is out of spec when I did an OHM reading. I can't tell what color is on the injectors. It's either blue or black. I tried wiping off some dirt with my finger and the colored dot came right off. From what I have found the dot represents flow rate. I just can't seem to find out what the flow rates are. If it comes down to replacing all of the injectors, will it matter if a different color injector replaces the other? I will keep them all the same color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I've read that they should match, and I know that the nozzle on the bottom of the blue dots looks different than the nozzle on the black dots. That said, my '93 has a black dot on #2 and blues everywhere else and runs just fine. The old plugs showed no mixture issues on that cylinder. I suspect the difference between the blue dot and the black dot is more about spray pattern than flow rate but that's just a guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 My trip to pick and pull was disappointing. I didn't want to pull the intake so I was hoping I could find enough injectors to replace all of them. I have black dots and all I found was blue. I didn't pull any because I couldn't find 6 of them. Either they had really corroded terminals or the ohm test failed. I did find a couple other things I needed though. I'm going to hopefully find a matching one. If not, I guess I will buy a set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 I've read that they should match, and I know that the nozzle on the bottom of the blue dots looks different than the nozzle on the black dots. That said, my '93 has a black dot on #2 and blues everywhere else and runs just fine. The old plugs showed no mixture issues on that cylinder. I suspect the difference between the blue dot and the black dot is more about spray pattern than flow rate but that's just a guess. That's what I'm thinking. I doubt there would be a difference in flow rates. Most of the replacements I have seen list the oem number and the replacement number. The replacement numbers are the same for both colors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Well it looks like the injector for cylinder 2 is out of spec when I did an OHM reading. I can't tell what color is on the injectors. It's either blue or black. I tried wiping off some dirt with my finger and the colored dot came right off. From what I have found the dot represents flow rate. I just can't seem to find out what the flow rates are. If it comes down to replacing all of the injectors, will it matter if a different color injector replaces the other? I will keep them all the same color. As the Slarted one said, it is about spray pattern, not flow rate. That said, I had been told by someone that the black ones are 'universal' and will work with most any other color, but I have no way of confirming this. That would be an Alkorahil question, perhaps shoot him a PM? I have a few injectors left, blue I believe, and I haven't even checked to see what my current WD21 has, so I might not even have any use for them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RF600 Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 I don't understand why different spray patterns exist. An injector has 1 job. Why complicate things by making 3 different ones? Oh yeah, we are engineer's and we can. Well I will use what I can find and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 It does actually make some difference with the atomization, and perhaps the speed of the injection? This might change the desired timing slightly, improve mileage, help with smog, etc. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if there was one or two injectors specifically used only in Ca or any other heavily smog tested area... Point is, you don't want one cylinder running at a different condition, if that would be the case, but I doubt it would be a show stopper either. You are somewhat nearby, check out NOW... Looks like their site has been hacked, so here... http://www.yelp.com/biz/now-nissan-only-wreckers-rancho-cordova B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 When replacing the injectors you need to replace with either blue or black. It is not good to mix and match injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now