Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Engine Removal 1992 Pathfinder D21


Grenade
 Share

Recommended Posts

I recently have removed the stock broken VG30E from my 1992 SE-V6 4SP Auto 4x4 Pathfinder. I did some research before I even bough the vehicle to see what was all required to complete this task. I did find some good information, but nothing that was concrete. I have access to ALLDATA style online manual, which did help, but was in itself somewhat confusing and missleading. I have also ordered the FSM but am still waiting on that to arrive. Here's some information that I was wondering and now have an answer to.

 

YES, you can remove JUST THE ENGINE WITHOUT removing the transmission or transfer case, OR the front differential. I did this without removing the drive line as well.

 

Remove the Transmission Crossmemeber and use a Transmission jack or motorcycle jack to support it. This will also allow you to change the AXIS of the driveline for easy bolt access.

 

For the Lower bolts, Lower the transmission/transfer case and this will allow some easier access. A 14mm ratchet wrench will be a life saver for you! If you can, try and have both a long and a short one. This will save you time.

 

For the Top (two top ones, and one drivers side one) raise the transmission/transfer case. This will pull them away from the firewal. On the DS top bolt, I laid across the DS fender, and for the one directly below it, I pulled off the DS wheel and reached past the mud flap/fender. This was to break them loose. The PS Top bolt can be accessed from directly ontop of the engine. I laid across the manifold, and was able to easily get my hand with wrench in there to break it free.

 

The Starter Bracket must be removed to seperate the engine/transmission.

 

There is an "inspection cover" that is pinched between the Engine and the Transmission. All bolts must be removed to seperate the two somewhat and the cover will unbolt. This MUST be removed to get to the flexplate/converter bolts. There are 4 of them, and they are small. The best way I found was to use a long extension and impact that was at the front of the engine bay, where the radiator/fan would be. I removed the first one, then took some spray paint, and sprayed into the area, marking the two. This is becuase they are balanced from the factory. Then rotate engine, and remove the other 3.

 

I was able to remove the engine with out disconnecting the PS / and AC compressor. Just move them nicely to the sides.

 

There are many bolts that hold the Engine to the Transmission. They are different lengths and they go different ways. Try your best not to mix them up. I used a template to keep mine in place hopefully.

 

Now is a GREAT time to change your engine mounts, headers, transmission lines, add a cooler, rebuild your starter, or anything else thats in the engine bay.

 

I have not installed the new (used) engine yet, but I will try and update this post with any information I find that may help.

 

Thanks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

There is an "inspection cover" that is pinched between the Engine and the Transmission. All bolts must be removed to seperate the two somewhat and the cover will unbolt. This MUST be removed to get to the flexplate/converter bolts. There are 4 of them, and they are small. The best way I found was to use a long extension and impact that was at the front of the engine bay, where the radiator/fan would be. I removed the first one, then took some spray paint, and sprayed into the area, marking the two. This is becuase they are balanced from the factory. Then rotate engine, and remove the other 3.

 

 

Can anyone help me with this part? I can't seem to get the engine out and I found this, just not sure what this inspection cover is referencing and I can't find anything in the FSM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just went through the starter hole to get the torque converter bolts. After you take the bracket the starter sits in off, there is a big hole.

 

ok i'll be attempting try #3 tomorrow to get the engine out. I'll look for this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...