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hawairish

R50 Tire Carrier Mod: Let's settle this!

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1 hour ago, Astrorami said:


Yeah crazy asking price. If anyone is curious about what $4k will get you, here is the car in question. I inquired about it and it only took a week to detail emoji23.png
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It looks like one of the headlights is more yellow than the other.  Either it was in a frontal collision and got a replacement, or he got tired after buffing the first one haha

Edited by jjonez

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9 hours ago, jjonez said:

 Looks like I could even get away with not taking the bumper cover off.  Does it require an additional screw to ground the switch/hold it in place?

No problem. Yes, you can do it with the cover on and you will need an additional fastener to secure it. 

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2ba56816c0c6235f768ea93b08f0ae38.jpg

Hoping to come home with a tire carrier this weekend, fingers crossed

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Make sure you pull all the latching hardware from below the hatch & don’t forget to pull the sensor. Good luck!

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Make sure you pull all the latching hardware from below the hatch & don’t forget to pull the sensor. Good luck!

The sensor? Is it located around everything else, the carrier and everything?

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1 hour ago, joshrichard said:


The sensor? Is it located around everything else, the carrier and everything?

Yep, right down by the latch receiver, you can’t miss it

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Adding @Astrorami's build link to the thread, since we completed his last weekend. 

His is the newer style aluminum carrier, which weighed around 36.5 lbs vs. the 58-lb steel carrier.  For his, we used a 1.5" x 14" (14.5?", I don't recall already) 14ga steel strip and a bunch of 1/4" and 3/16" rivets, in addition to the rivnuts.  I was very pleased with how that turned out; barely any deflection when pushing or lifting the support bracket.

 

9428-F60-A-073-D-45-BA-807-D-62952-AF40-

 

Admittedly, we installed the hinge mounts about 1/4" too high, which created some alignment issues with the support bracket, as well as made the lower plastic hinge cover come up over the tail light a little.  Overall, pleased with the install despite that issue.

 

8750-AA64-B3-E8-4-A0-A-942-C-5-EF14-A3-B

 

The release lever on this model is lower than the older models, so it doesn't contact the valence panel on the liftgate, about a 1/4" gap. 

 

55662218-BD31-455-C-9471-C9-CE300739-C5.

 

617-F3-B87-D4-A4-45-B7-B4-C9-5-CC35-E6-D

 

We didn't come up with a license plate mount or lighting...the aluminum frame tubing had a larger diameter than the vinyl-coated clamps that I had.  Since it was very late (er, very early in the morning), we just cable tied the plate and literally taped a freebie Harbor Freight LED light to it so that he could legally drive it home that night.

 

We also did not wire up the switch for the tire carrier cluster light that looks like a hamburger.  Just like my experience, his switch did not match the harness that's there, which seems to confirm that there's some additional pigtail wiring that needs to be grabbed from a donor to avoid having to splice wires.  Oh...and I also learned that long ago when I did mine, I flipped the hole opening for the switch...Astrorami gave me grief about it...the hole for the switch body is supposed to be on the right of the screw hole.  I had put it on the left, and we did the same on his just because the positioning on the reinforcement template was already set (and because it doesn't really matter...you can just as easily flip the plastic depressor piece on the carrier to make it line up).

 

Lastly, I don't recall finding any set of 5 M12x1.25 locking lug nuts when I looked years ago, but they seem to exist now.

McGard 25442: http://www.mcgard.com/product/chrome-cone-seat-wheel-lock-set-m12-x-1-25-thread-size-set-of-5-locks-and-1-key/

(I'm still using the Rugged Ridge 16715.22 single wheel lock.)

 

...

 

In other news, I removed my carrier from my truck the other day for bedlining, along with my bumpers, sliders, and skids.  Here's how my rivnuts have held up over the years:

 

972-B3454-A11-C-4-CFE-92-AE-0-D3-C2994-A

 

D33-BA228-2135-44-A1-B318-11261-F5706-CA

 

94-A1-C8-C9-D335-4628-89-F3-576360-C8-D7

 

D799-CCCE-EF61-4-A8-C-83-CA-3-AE97-C283-

 

By no means terrible.  The overall damage is minimal; the indentations on the side panels are from an accidental too fast/hard opening long ago (lesson learned), but it's also apparent that at some point I dragged the tire while off-roading judging by the 4 rivets at the rear...the top two are pushed in a little (panel is dented from corner of hinge bracket), and the bottom two are bulged out a tiny amount.  I never knew I did that, but if that's the extent of carnage, I can totally live with that.

 

Naked truck...

 

6139-CA5-A-8-BD4-43-A3-AB19-FB2-BF335-B2

Edited by hawairish
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That sums up our install nicely. One thing to note is Mcgard has a kit that includes a 21mm key instead of a 19mm. The model is 24554.

McGard 24554 Chrome Cone Seat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002009AOK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

After the installation I made a few modifications to the carrier to correct our slight misalignment. It now opens/closes very smoothly with almost no effort.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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In other news, I removed my carrier from my truck the other day for bedlining, along with my bumpers, sliders, and skids.  Here's how my rivnuts have held up over the years:
By no means terrible.  The overall damage is minimal; the indentations on the side panels are from an accidental too fast/hard opening long ago (lesson learned), but it's also apparent that at some point I dragged the tire while off-roading judging by the 4 rivets at the rear...the top two are pushed in a little (panel is dented from corner of hinge bracket), and the bottom two are bulged out a tiny amount.  I never knew I did that, but if that's the extent of carnage, I can totally live with that!

Really interesting to see your long term experience with the retrofit. AZ lends itself to just about the roughest off road driving and your truck has seen some real use (any idea how much time &/or miles). Combined with@TowndawgR50 ‘s experience we now have a real track record on these. He can even show what happens when you abruptly put the weight of the whole truck on the underside of the swingate spare - it dented & tore the metal at the some of the mount locations - but surprisingly little.
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On 5/11/2019 at 7:44 AM, RainGoat said:

Really interesting to see your long term experience with the retrofit. AZ lends itself to just about the roughest off road driving and your truck has seen some real use (any idea how much time &/or miles). Combined with@TowndawgR50 ‘s experience we now have a real track record on these. He can even show what happens when you abruptly put the weight of the whole truck on the underside of the swingate spare - it dented & tore the metal at the some of the mount locations - but surprisingly little.

 

The truck has definitely seen some use and abuse since my install, but not so much lately (and with the near 6" of lift, it's even more out of reach).  Where the rear has typically been prone to the most damage is up around Sedona with all the rock-steps.  If it weren't for my trailer hitch bearing the brunt of things, I'm not sure how the carrier may have faired.  I'm thinking maybe I need some sort of hitch-mount slider or something to protect the tire, just in case.

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Finally got around to bedlining the carrier, along with the bumpers and such.  Not a fan of the color and will probably re-spray them, but I like the texture and finish.

 

E6042084-C32-E-442-B-B457-20-D441279787.

 

51978299-90-CA-441-A-8980-57-B31-BABD6-D

 

All the brackets and other hardware just received a flat black enamel, but everything is bed lined.  Color was supposed to be Battleship Dark Gray, but a little too blue/green for my liking.

 

While I had everything apart, I also drilled holes into the carrier frame about 2" higher than where the tire mount body attaches.

 

669327-E4-DFD8-4-DD0-B723-B40430039802.j 

 

The reason is that I plan to make a 1" sq. tube frame that will be sandwiched between the frame and tire mount that serves two purposes: 1) the tube frame will give me mounting points for various things (think fold down tray, telescoping work light mount, jerry can, Hi-Lift jack, etc.), and 2) will also allow me to move the tire mount 2" up and 1" out for a little more clearance if (when) moving up a tire size.  I've not constructed anything yet, but eventually.

 

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While I had everything apart, I also drilled holes into the carrier frame about 2" higher than where the tire mount body attaches.

 

The reason is that I plan to make a 1" sq. tube frame that will be sandwiched between the frame and tire mount that serves two purposes: 1) the tube frame will give me mounting points for various things (think fold down tray, telescoping work light mount, jerry can, Hi-Lift jack, etc.), and 2) will also allow me to move the tire mount 2" up and 1" out for a little more clearance if (when) moving up a tire size.  I've not constructed anything yet, but eventually.

I’m not entirely sure I follow but I’ll chat about it with[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] as we’re likely going to proceed with my retro fit in the next 4-8 weeks.

[mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] is working on a table as well but has found the clearance issue limiting.

 

Are those recovery hooks I see mounted to your custom bumper (I note I don’t see them when the bumper is off)?

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8 hours ago, RainGoat said:

I’m not entirely sure I follow but I’ll chat about it with[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] as we’re likely going to proceed with my retro fit in the next 4-8 weeks.

[mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] is working on a table as well but has found the clearance issue limiting.

 

Are those recovery hooks I see mounted to your custom bumper (I note I don’t see them when the bumper is off)?

 

The idea is that because the tire carrier is two pieces, I'm going to introduce a 3rd piece that bolts in between.  

 

Carrier-mockup.jpg

 

A crude sketch, of course, but the yellow lines represent 1" square tube that will space the tire mount (not shown in pic) off the carrier frame, and the green line can be another other tube (thinking 2" x 1" tube) that has whatever provisions I need for mounting things; i.e., hinges for a tray between carrier and liftgate, mounts for accessories beside (or potentially above) the tire.  It'll give me easier mounting options without having to deal with the irregularities of the carrier frame, let alone have to make any further modifications to the carrier itself.

 

The position would move the tire mount up, too (pic taken upside down), so that the stock holes on the mount line up with the new holes I drilled, and I just pass a 2" bolt and hardware through all of them:

 

3-AD37240-BD7-F-4-E69-8347-A3-DC7-CC28-A

 

Ah, the genuine HF 10K tow hooks.  They were integrated from the beginning, actually, with the mounting holes for them being incorporated into the bumper brackets (3/8").  I got one of them for maybe $2 because it was missing a bolt, and felt obligated to make use of a pair.

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Finally found a tire carrier last week after searching for a while. This thread made it a lot less daunting but man that was still one of the most tedious things I've done on the truck. I'd definitely recommend making a template for the latch hardware off the donor vehicle if possible, I didn't do this and was kicking myself for it. My bumper support is pretty mangled though and I'm missing all the plastic fasteners so it's not surprising it didn't make the best template lol.

 

I welded rather than riveted the reinforcement piece. Feels real solid!

2LMXGqK.jpg

 

Had to make some relief cuts on the underside and bend it ever so slightly to match the curve of the truck.

 

ii81Uz4.jpg

 

Installed

AXoYYbo.jpg

 

 

I'll be spacing out the mount and raising it 2" asap as I don't like how low the 33 sits, thanks hawairish for the idea (and for starting this whole thread!). And thanks to everyone else in this thread, couldn't have done it otherwise!

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Thank you everyone who contributed info and tips to this thread! I'm going to tackle this myself soon, but do have a few more questions

 

On 7/30/2015 at 4:15 AM, hawairish said:

 

Re-using the OE hinge pieces wasn't an option. Ended up creating sleeves from the broken bushings, got 5/8" bolts (hinge pin is 16mm), nylon washers, and a PTLN nut. Packed with silicone grease, it should be free of noise and maintenance (but can be taken apart if needed)

 

 

^First off , @hawairish how exactly did you take apart the OE hinge pieces? Did you have to cut/drill them out or what? I want to get my entire carrier powder coated and i'm guessing it would be better if I could remove the hinge bushings on mine and take the hinges off.

 

Next, what is everyone using for drill bits for the M8/M10 holes? Some are mentioning step drill bits, some are saying start with a smaller hole and get bigger until? what final size exactly? I think someone mentioned 17/32nds or some odd size like that. Is it better to use a step drill bit or to just start small and work my way up with regular drill bits?  Is there a certain material of drill bit to use for the sheet metal/aluminum support brackets?

Edited by rhino5oh

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Thank you everyone who contributed info and tips to this thread! I'm going to tackle this myself soon, but do have a few more questions
 
 
^First off , [mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] how exactly did you take apart the OE hinge pieces? Did you have to cut/drill them out or what? I want to get my entire carrier powder coated and i'm guessing it would be better if I could remove the hinge bushings on mine and take the hinges off.
 
Next, what is everyone using for drill bits for the M8/M10 holes? Some are mentioning step drill bits, some are saying start with a smaller hole and get bigger until? what final size exactly? I think someone mentioned 17/32nds or some odd size like that. Is it better to use a step drill bit or to just start small and work my way up with regular drill bits?  Is there a certain material of drill bit to use for the sheet metal/aluminum support brackets?

Start with a spring punch then use a small bit to start. After, use a step bit. Bolts are m10


Sent from my Pathfinder

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14 hours ago, rhino5oh said:

Thank you everyone who contributed info and tips to this thread! I'm going to tackle this myself soon, but do have a few more questions

 

^First off , @hawairish how exactly did you take apart the OE hinge pieces? Did you have to cut/drill them out or what? I want to get my entire carrier powder coated and i'm guessing it would be better if I could remove the hinge bushings on mine and take the hinges off.

 

Next, what is everyone using for drill bits for the M8/M10 holes? Some are mentioning step drill bits, some are saying start with a smaller hole and get bigger until? what final size exactly? I think someone mentioned 17/32nds or some odd size like that. Is it better to use a step drill bit or to just start small and work my way up with regular drill bits?  Is there a certain material of drill bit to use for the sheet metal/aluminum support brackets?

 

Well...there's how it was done vs. how I'd do it.  The guy who did my powder coating took it upon himself to destroy them out without telling me.  I presume his tools included an angle grinder, sledge hammer, and a gorilla on 'roids.  If I were to have done it, I would've probably ground down the button head of the pin and tried to punch it through without bending the @!*% out of my brackets like he did.

 

I don't recall the pins being serviceable, but I can't remember.  The busted bushings fragments I got back looked to be a pot metal that probably would've withstood the curing heat cycle, but I dunno.

 

I prefer step bits, and usually for metals, you should always start with small holes and enlarge them, whether it be with a step bit or multiple drill bits.  If you go at a hole with too big of a bit, you'll shred the body metal easily.  HSS and titanium coated HSS bits will work fine, unless you want to spring for cobalt stuff.  A little lubrication helps, too.

 

Also, it's not clear if you plan to use rivnuts or nut.  The step bits I used from Harbor Freight happened to have the odds sizes that worked best with the rivnuts I used.

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Thanks for the info. I figured getting the hinges off would be a huge pain in the butt. I've sent a powder coater some images and asked if they could powder coat it with the hinges on and still get decent coverage. I'd much rather not take them off.

 

I plan to definitely rivnut the bolts on the very rear of the vehicle, but potentially use nuts & bolts with a reinforcement plate on the sides of the vehicle since you can reach the side ones from the inside (might be a pain to reach them but I think its do-able from what I've read. The rear ones seem to be impossible to reach)

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I used large fender washers and a nylock nut on 3 of the 4 side bolts. The rear top one looked rather difficult to fish the hardware onto so I opted to rivnut it.

 

Looks like I'll be replacing my hinge pins with bolts soon, One of them has started to rattle badly. Oh joy 🙄. I'll probably raise the tire mount another 4" (at least) then as I'm dragging it on the ground every time I wheel even with it raised 2" already. More lift will also help with this (coming soon).

 

TBH l'm not really thrilled with this carrier. It doesn't feel as solid as I'd hoped, with just a little too much force opening or closing it the body buckles an alarming amount. Kinda wishing I'd waited till I build a bumper and made my own. The factory one does look good though and once I raise the spare some more it shouldn't be so bad.

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On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2016 at 12:22 PM, CDN_S4 said:

Patrick, where did you get your blind nuts from? I can't find any locally. I will have to order online. I just want to make sure to get the same ones as you have. I found a carrier on a JY and picked it up for $40 CAD. All I need is the blind nuts.

d287877efc57a30393effc03a7d746a9.jpg

bd3c9efb69b33859a68b460f583ea20c.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Crapatalk

That Nissan is from Calgary, AB.

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Another satisfied customer with a newly-added OEM tire carrier. Thanks to everyone who contributed info to this thread, it really helped me understand what needed to be done!

 

4UIU1Iv.jpg

 

hyrou6A.jpg

 

qnKsnvj.jpg

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Another satisfied customer with a newly-added OEM tire carrier. Thanks to everyone who contributed info to this thread, it really helped me understand what needed to be done!
 
4UIU1Iv.jpg
 
hyrou6A.jpg
 
qnKsnvj.jpg

Great job! Looks like you nailed the position of the rivnuts. Your truck looks very clean


Sent from my Pathfinder
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Can the back glass be opened with the tire carrier in the closed position?

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Can the back glass be opened with the tire carrier in the closed position?

Yes


Sent from my Pathfinder

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