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My new 2001 LE 4x4

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I had to remove the preload washers with a hanmer and punch. Ive never seen anything like this, especially out of a shop. If the bearings failed while i was towing I could been hurt or hurt/killed someone else

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It took all afternoon to get up, digging out the truck each time, laying down branches and rocks to try and make it further etc. So once we were out it was a big relief, especially since the sun was disappearing fast

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  • 4 weeks later...

Love this truck. The video was great. What have you done to your exhaust? No cats?


How much spring/spacer lift did you have that caused you the CV trouble? I'd like a set of flurry style spacers for 2inch all around but will just drop the sub frame from day 1 if it will save me the trouble.

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Thanks. Its a cat-back setup. Most of my exhaust had started to develop rattles and moderate rust so it needed to be replaced.


I had Fluerys 2" w stock everything on 33x12.5. Others seem to have no problems with 2" of lift but I was going thru CVs.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

First run with the Lokka was a success. Went up north to a Cow Mountain again and finally got deep into the trail section. While its designated as a jeep/truck friendly place I have to say...if you care about your paint, its not for you. Trails were extremely tight and overgrown. Spent all day wheeling and only got through 3 of many trails they had. Only used 1/4 tank too since the lokka enabled me to idle or creep through everything.


The added traction of the Lokka made the truck far more capable than I imagined. Steep, deeply rutted hills were a breeze. The main thing I noticed was that the engine did very little work. I never had the engine above 1500RPM and it seemed to chug along very happily without breaking a sweat where I would normally have to get a running start or rev the motor due to spinning tires to make it up and through difficult obstacles. The truck received less abuse in general. I would say none at all really, except for the brakes. They got a massive workout on extremely steep descents. While i did manage to unseat my passenger side front coil from the shock, a quick blow with a mallet put in back in place. Dont really understand how though. I really took it easy and never had to get on the accelerator at any point. It might be due to excessive flex from worn bushings but after a quick inspection they seem to check out. I'll finally be making a missing link and stiffening up the rest of the SF to try and prevent this from leaving me stranded in the future.

















The spring, hanging on for dear life...





back in place


  • Like 4
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Yeah, we were chatting about the popped spring offline, and it had me stumped too. At this point, I can only wonder if the spring is permanently weakened from being run without a strut bearing for a while...thanks to the "reputable" idiots who did the work beforehand.


Just had another thought, though...do you have the bumpstops installed on the strut? Unlike ones that bolt to the chassis, these install over the strut rod and the strut boot attaches to them. If they're missing, and you go full flex, the (over) compressed spring would want to twist, perhaps causing it to dislodge. Maybe?

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I had started hearing a clicking sound coming from the passenger suspension area and did a quick once over to find it unseated. I was already back home though so it is anybodys guess when it happened. The clicking appeared to be dirt or debris caught in the suspension sonwhere. I had assumed the trip caused a stress fracture somewhere in the frame or sub frame and was prepared to weld it up and add supports. After pressure washing the underside of the truck to cleanit for welding the clicking went away. Frustrating but overall good news. Still welding supports in and adding a missing link.


And yes, there is a potential for my springs to be weakend from twisting due to the




I believe the bump stops are installed but Im not 100% sure. I didnt do the installation....Chaffers did.....

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I don't believe they are bumpstops. Just dust covers to keep dirt out of strut seal. Mine were totally rotten (I was the first person to break down the struts at 115k). I just taped mine back up and slipped em on for looks.


Is it possible your strut is going down and let it over compress too rapidly? It seems odd the way it popped out, people run spring packers and it doesn't cause over spring compression wheeling that I've seen.


The bearing lets the strut twist but it shouldn't have unloaded the spring unless the shop waaaay over compressed it with a hydraulic press.


When I did my springs I wished it had more of a lip on the bottom but I didn't weld or bolt in a hold strap. I just put heat wrap on the spring for a little less slippery surface.


Hope you figure it out, maybe subframe connectors/stiffeners will do the trick.

Edited by LittleFR
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No, there are bumpstops. You're thinking about the dust cover (aka bellow), but I'm talking about a bumpstop (aka jounce bumper). It's the yellow thing in the pic, included in the bellows kit:




If you're missing that, you're allowing more up-travel, and consequently more spring compression (than expected).


As for the strut bearing...in Towndawg's case, those clowns didn't even install them. It was metal-metal contact. The upper coil bucket stayed stationary until the coil's resistance forced the bucket to move when he turned the wheel...and it only moved slightly at the very end of the turn. That means the spring was twisting when/how it shouldn't, which could ultimately weaken it.

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So i had a quick moment to make a Missing Link and the results are good so far. Massive improvement in positive braking and steering. Very solid. Why i waited to make this is beyond me...


Used 1.5" .125 wall square tube and milled the top off for access and used an annular cutter to make room for the washer and a 22mm impact socket. Of course one of the bolts was fubar'd, yet another casualty of the fantastic work at Shaffers Off Road of Alameda Ca ( Dont ever go there)

Luckily I was able to run a tap through the subframe threads and snag a new bolt from the shop so it all worked out.











  • Like 6
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hahaha.. good...! Mine will have a plate welded under it for skidplate bolting... so It will be a little different, but I like the ends that you did... simple and no need to weld an additional plate (like I did in the past)...

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