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WD21 Upgraded to R50


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Hello All,

 

Srarting out I have been a member for a short time but a reader for a long time, Thank you to all for helping with your addvice and expertise for all of us newbies.

 

I have been a proud owner of a 88 pathy for a few years now and have enjoyed every minute of it through the good and bad times. Just ths past year my family was blessed with baby girl bringing us to family of four. With all new things something must be put by the wayside and it just so happened to be the pathy. Not to make this a long post if you want to read more into the last year dealing with the 88 feel free to read the new members post (HELLO FROM TEXAS).

The wife had made a comment when trying to get the kids in the back seat with a few choise words that im not going to repeat but the bottom line was it was just to hard to get the kids in and out. With her advice and consent I started looking for a new pathfinder that would take the place of our once loved 88 pathy.

 

After looking for two months I came across the right r50 that a young man recieved as a hand me down from his grandparents who bought it new in 96. When it was perchaced the pathy spent most of it's life behind the back of a RV being towed across the country for an easy put put car to get around in. She had spent 12 years being towed befor the couple decided to hang up the rv keys and retire for at home. It wasn't till 2005 when young man received it from his grandparent as a high school graduation present and was in his care till I perchaced it from him.

 

Now to the good stuff. I found the car on craigslist for $1200 obo with 190,000 miles and said it needed some work. After a hour trip to look at it I knew it was the right car for our growing family.

 

spec. 1996 pathfinder 5 speed, 4x4, electric windowes, locks, sunroof, spare tire swing, clean interior, and new radio.

 

The bad, both front cv axles are bad, swaybar links, old tires, sun faded paint, a few minnor rust spots on the body, rusty bumpers, rotted nurf bars, and broken antena.

 

So far over the past week I have started to replace both axles, new swaybar links not installed just yet for front and back, and I just scored 2" spacers off craigslist for $100. I'm also looking at black rock crawler rims 15x8 with 31,10.5 wranglers on craigslist for $400.

 

Does anybody have any extra things that I should be looking for out side the norm that yall have come across that a newbie might not know about and any after market things that i should get to extend it's life ?

I will try and load pictures in the next few days.

 

 

 

 

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Good score. That really isn't a lot of work to be done. Typically of a ~200k miles Pathfinder.

You need to do the Timing belt ASAP. Unless you have positive record of it recently being done.

A full kit of every part to do when in there is about $300 from Alkorahil. Well worth it.

 

Sent from fat fingers on S6

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One more time, because it is that important...

 

You need to do the Timing belt ASAP. Unless you have positive record of it recently being done

 

Yeesh, I can tell what side was south facing when that thing sat! Doesn't change it's reliability though...

I'd do a basic tune up and change all fluids to set a maintenence schedule, at least items that you don't know when they have been changed. The fact that most of the miles are tow miles confuses the basic maint schedule, so you have to start somewhere. Then drive it! ;)

 

B

 

Oh, change the vehicle year in your account description or it might cause confusion...

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I went to get it inspected and had 3 codes pop up, cranks sensor, misfire cylinder 5, ( 02 sensor (bank 1,sensor 2)) any help would be great.

 

Plan on changing all ignition stuff, wires, plugs, rotor, cap, and cleaning injectors to try and get the codes to clear..

 

Also on the list are rear link bushings (there shot), fixing the check engine light since it doesn't work, timing belt and other accessories that go with it and the newly found rear break leak. The front end shakes a little at highway speed and a lot on breaking so i'm thinking either turning the rotors or just buying new ones. Looks like im going to be broke before to long.

 

This morning I finished sticking the new tires and rims on and does it look good, ill take pictures when it stops raining.

 

Any advice from the crowd would be nice.

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Step one would be to download the 1996 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, that will give you a good description of the crank sensor (in the dizzy IIRC). For the cylinder misfire, unhook the harness on the injector and check the resistance between the two contacts, it should be 10-14 ohms cold. if it is way off, odds are that the injector needs replacing. For the O2 sensor, (the downstream one on the passenger side IIRC, but verify this with the FSM), follow the wire to the connector, open it up and make sure it is clean and proper, then test the voltage both cold and hot. It should read between 0-1 volts, 0 being lean (and cold IIRC), 1 being rich. Also, the value should change between hot and cold conditions. If it fails any of those, it probably needs replacing (probably does anyway due to the code, but can't hurt to check and understand).

 

Was there no check engine light on when you took it for inspection?

 

B

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Nope no light. That was a fun surprise! As for the injectors I'm hopping that there just clogged and won't have to buy them but there are a few at the local junk yard.

O2 sensor. ...

Down stream passage side? Well if there's one past the cat or should be one ...... well there isn't . But I did find there's magna flow exaust on the car.

I'll definitely down load the manual. Thanks and will update when I get some time to work on it hopefully this week.

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I got around to changing the spark plugs yesterday and found the cylinder #5 misfire was due to a bad plug. There was a good bit of the oil sitting on top plug when I pulled the wire and after pulling the plug found it to be burnt. I'm hoping this is nothing and not a bad valve guide or something small like leaky head gasket and it was a bad plug from the start.

 

I'll give it a few days and look at it again and evaluate if theres a larger problem. I do have to say after replacing the autolite plugs for NKG it is amazing how well this thing runs. I hope most of the codes clear!

 

Now I'm waiting for bushings to come in the mail!

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Update.

 

After driving for a few days a and about 200 miles the pathy has been a rockstar but have come accross a few more things that need to be fixed.

 

Rear bushings are shot and have arived in the mail just yesterday with few extra parts after it taking all week. The wait just kills me.

 

THe big issue that has come up is a noise from the rear end that sounds like a tire is rubbing a fender when im in reverse and is realy bad when turning in reverse.

My guess is it's the LSD and (1. has no oil) (2. it has the wrong oil), or (3. its about to go out).

 

 

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The sound you describe is like tire rub in the front, but I can't diagnose sounds on the internet...

 

Nope no light. That was a fun surprise! As for the injectors I'm hopping that there just clogged and won't have to buy them but there are a few at the local junk yard.
O2 sensor. ...
Down stream passage side? Well if there's one past the cat or should be one ...... well there isn't . But I did find there's magna flow exaust on the car.
I'll definitely down load the manual. Thanks and will update when I get some time to work on it hopefully this week.

Check to see if it has been unplugged, taped over, etc, because you definitely want a heads up light if something malfunctions.

 

Sorry, the second O2 sensor that is after the catalytic converter.

 

 

I got around to changing the spark plugs yesterday and found the cylinder #5 misfire was due to a bad plug. There was a good bit of the oil sitting on top plug when I pulled the wire and after pulling the plug found it to be burnt. I'm hoping this is nothing and not a bad valve guide or something small like leaky head gasket and it was a bad plug from the start.

I'll give it a few days and look at it again and evaluate if theres a larger problem. I do have to say after replacing the autolite plugs for NKG it is amazing how well this thing runs. I hope most of the codes clear!

Now I'm waiting for bushings to come in the mail!

The oil on top of the plug is probably fron the valve cover gasket. Start by trying to tighten the screws by hand, and snug, don't torque.

Do you have a code reader? Clear the codes with it, and see if they come back...

 

B

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Better than a Honda Accord... :tongue:

 

That'll get you more places than you think...

 

B

 

Yes it should, and I did know one idiot who had an H. accord and thought it was a Jeep back in high school.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For anyone who knows what these are.

 

20150506_163945_zpsjbfcb66l_1.jpg20150506_163924_zps1hgd3rkc.jpg

 

I had received my rear bushings oem style last week and mulled over the thought of how week they look and after many hours of killing brain cells thanks to many PBR'S I set out looking for poly bushings.

 

Come to find out only ebay and 4x4parts have them AND 4x4parts didn't have enough. After measuring and searching I think I came across the right ones from aftermarketenerysyspensionparts.com, part #

9.9485 Flange Type Bushing $20.76

and it's 2 bushings to a set, that's $10.38 a bushing, sure as hell beats $25.00 a piece at the autoparts store.

 

Lets hope they fit when I find the time to install them, Two jobs really kill the mood.

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I've done the driver side lower and after 3 hours of wanting to commit suicide I hade it finally back under the car just to find out the axle had moved back 4 inches. It wasn't that hard to get it back into place, it just took me breaking 2 ratchet straps and saying a few Hail Marries. Now for Friday to get here to do the other side. Forcast says 100% of rain. Ya sounds like my life is on track! I'm going to try and take pictures to show yall how southern rednecks fix things.

 

I wonder if McGiver was from down south. He could rig everything to explode.

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I think most of us have all done these rear bushing but just an idea for any one else out there who might need a crude way of extracting the old ones.

 

After removing the rear arms most people tend to press out the center sleeve, I tend to burn them out with a small propane torch to get high off the smell and kill a little more of our ozone. Once the sleeve is out I go to a trusted ball joint fork and a BFH (big f@cking hamer). I start on the lip of the pressed fit bushing with the fork using it as a chisel. Then turn it over and repeat.

20150514_140723_zpsjgp14hky.jpg

 

After going to town on the old bushing it should just fall out.

20150514_145200_zps0jso59hg.jpg

 

 

I would not recommend doing this if your going back to using the OEM press fit bushings as there will be a little scoring from the chisel work and would probably cause some binding when trying to PRESS the new ones.

I went with poly bushings so there was no issue.

20150514_150035_zpsghlu5aps.jpg

 

For the next trick I will install the upper bushings with oem press fit ones with out a press. This should be fun!

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