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Longer wheel stud options


hawairish
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Thought I'd consolidate some notes, since a lot of people run wheel spacers and seem to want/need longer wheel studs. As mentioned in another post, I replaced the front studs on my 2004 Pathfinder SE with rear studs, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer, to run 1/4" wheel spacers.


Summarized from Dorman's catalog (link) and cross-referenced at RockAuto (and sorry if this table comes out all jacked up):


Dorman Knurl Diameter Thread Under Head Length RockAuto Application

P/N in mm in mm

610-240 0.512 13.00 M12-1.25 1.260 32.00 87-04 Pathfinder (front)

610-320 0.505 12.83 M12-1.25 1.634 41.50 87-04 Pathfinder (rear)

610-403 0.508 12.90 M12-1.25 1.791 45.49 93-95 Infiniti J30, 93-98 Nissan Quest

610-295 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.476 37.49 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda

610-507 0.512 13.00 M12-1.50 1.764 44.81 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda

610-410 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.811 46.00 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda

610-409 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 2.205 56.01 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda


The options above should allow running a 1/2" spacer up front (use J30/Quest studs), and 1/4" at all corners (610-410 up front and 610-409 in the rear) with a different thread pitch. I think most people are just running spacers up front, though.


If you pair the longer length studs to your wheel spacers (i.e., 1/2" longer for 1/2" spacers), your stock lug nuts will work, but I recommend longer (and/or new) lug nuts anyway. You'll obviously need them if you change thread pitch. Longer nuts are not to increase thread contact, but instead so the wheels can be installed if the spacer needs to be removed. Stock nuts are acorn style and either 29mm or 35mm.


Not shown above is knurled shoulder length which, for the most part, is negligible. The wheel hub thickness and wheel nut seat depth will consume all of this, even without a spacer. However, some could be too tall without a spacer (possibly 610-409 with a 1.14" shoulder). Should length should be at least the thickness of the wheel hub, so double-check the Dorman catalog. If you have steel wheels, the material at the nut seat is likely also thinner than aluminum wheels, so keep that in mind, too.


Studs and lugs at all corners is about a $60 project and a few hours of work. I used a $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to press the lugs out, and an open-ended lug nut (Dorman 611-065) with a thick washer to seat them. The front wheel hub assembly will need to be removed from the truck. For the rear, a big hammer and a drift punch should unseat them (but it's been a very long time since I did this on my Frontier).


You'll obviously want to confirm your particular application, but hopefully this is a good starting point.

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Wow! Lots of good info! Nice work man!

 

I'd like to ad to it if possible. It's the highest end option, but an option no less.

 

ARP makes extended chromly steel studs. They come in pack of five. I don't remember how much per pack, but it was like $220 for how many I'd need for my pathfinder.

 

And, a hammer with an old lug nut on top is how I extracted my old studs. World great. No more than three hits per stud.

 

Anyway, awesome info and thanks for sharing.

 

-Kyle

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Not sure I'd splash $220(!) on wheel studs, unless they rotated my tires automatically, and made bacon in the morning. But yes, it's an option.

 

And of course, the obvious note is that if you just need replacement studs, here are your part numbers (not that RockAuto doesn't make it easy to find that). The other takeaway is that as long as whatever replacements you plan to go with are within the knurled diameter tolerances, you should be in pretty good shape.

 

 

 

 

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  • 4 years later...

I'm gonna resurrect this thread to keep all the numbers in one place.
I went searching and I found that Ichiba makes Some extended wheel studs that should FIT our vehicles. 
P/N: NS-122555S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 55mm long 
P/N: NS-122550S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 50mm long 
P/N: NS-122545S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 45mm long 

The best price I have found on these is http://SNCtuning.com, presently $2.69ea  and also the most reasonable shipping for my location. I plan on using the 55mm on both my trucks to give me 13mm more rear stud than I had before.
I'm going to order up a set and do studs when I do my brakes.

Edited by MY1PATH
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  • 2 months later...
On 6/30/2019 at 3:23 PM, MY1PATH said:

I'm gonna resurrect this thread to keep all the numbers in one place.
I went searching and I found that Ichiba makes Some extended wheel studs that should FIT our vehicles. 
P/N: NS-122555S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 55mm long 
P/N: NS-122550S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 50mm long 
P/N: NS-122545S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 45mm long 

The best price I have found on these is http://SNCtuning.com, presently $2.69ea  and also the most reasonable shipping for my location. I plan on using the 55mm on both my trucks to give me 13mm more rear stud than I had before.
I'm going to order up a set and do studs when I do my brakes.

Update: It appears the company Iciba, who makes the 122555S 55mm stud does not include the knurl in their measurement. These ended up being 5mm too long and would bottom out on the lug nut. I am working with SNC on the matter right now to get the correct fitment.

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  • 10 months later...
On 9/2/2019 at 7:01 PM, MY1PATH said:

Update: It appears the company Iciba, who makes the 122555S 55mm stud does not include the knurl in their measurement. These ended up being 5mm too long and would bottom out on the lug nut. I am working with SNC on the matter right now to get the correct fitment.

@MY1PATH would you mind sharing if the Iciba studs worked for you? Did you just need a shorter length to account for the knurl length?

Thanks for sharing this info.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/2/2019 at 10:01 PM, MY1PATH said:

Update: It appears the company Iciba, who makes the 122555S 55mm stud does not include the knurl in their measurement. These ended up being 5mm too long and would bottom out on the lug nut. I am working with SNC on the matter right now to get the correct fitment.

Not sure if this helps your situation, but the rear r50 studs will fit in the front. They sit very snug. I did this swap myself a few years ago for the extra length. I got the studs for under 2$ each at the time. 

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Thank you @johann_peralta. Using rear studs for the front seems like the right fit.

 

If I do spacers all around, then I would need longer rear studs as well. So it sounds like OEM rear studs for the front and Iciba extended studs for the rear. At a few bucks a stud, might be worth to order varying lengths from Iciba an see what works best.

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My original post says you can use the rear studs up front.

 

If you're doing wide spacers (1/2"-up), you don't need or want longer studs.  Longer studs are desirable for short spacers, like 1/4".

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Sorry for my confusing choice of words. I am beating a dead horse reviving this thread.

The question I was getting at was which Iciba studs worked for My1path to extend the rear studs 1/4".

 

 

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