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wont turn over, crank etc. starter? relay?


saulhudson32
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I have a 1994 pathfinder LE Automatic, I am in canada (think that makes minor differences with some relays) was hauling a trailer and parked to unload, went back in and pathfinder wouldnt start, to clicking, nothing, lights and stuff worked and a boost from a helpful individual would not start it.

 

so assuming it was the starter i began looking around, I tried bypassing the solenoid, which I know lttle about these sorts of electrical things. I unpluged the clip leading to the solenoid and attached an alligator clip to the male end leading to the solenoid then touched the other end of it to the battery pos terminal, with the key in the on position. It sounds like it is starting but will not, mind you it does the same thing without the key in the ignition. so a freind suggested a relay, i spend the other morning swapping out relays and no luck, but maybe i did the wrong ones.

 

I was attempting to dignose the connection by attaching a multimeter to various points on the solonoid, however being so confused of which was which i got frusterated and started taking it out. realizing once it was half out how hard it is going to be i decided to sit on it and see what this forum had to offer!

 

 

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I would put that solenoid back in, it's probably not the starter, I've had this same problem happen to me just last week...so Il attempt to steer you in the right direction.

Have you got a test light? If so check for power coming out of your ignition lead relay, you should find a black connector thing with a couple of wires coming out of it, connection point should be near your +terminal. Insert test light into those wires to see if it lights up. If it doesn't light up, you've got a bad relay. Just cut the wires out and replace with new ones.

Also check battery terminals are clean and tight?

Test light the fuse box. Replace the fuses in the block if you haven't done it in years. It's a good idea to put new fuses in if they look crummy.

Tested voltage on the battery? It should be holding at about 12.5v with the engine off, above 13.5v with the engine running. If your battery is at below 12v while engine is on, you've most likely got an alternator problem.

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Not above the fuse block, check under the hood, next to your positive terminal. Two black connectors with wires connecting them. You might find it easier to remove the battery to get at them. If all else fails, call a mobile auto elec but try my method first. It's gotta be the ignition relay, which is the black connectors next to positive terminal on the battery.

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i recently had the same thing happen to me. I took out starter and cleaned her up, replaced brush assembly. Everything is good now. Taking out starter and putting back in isnt that bad. If all else fails try this. New/Reman. starter around $200, brush assembly $45. Beergarage.com i think it is has good write up with pics on starter rebuild. Hope this helps.

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just an update:

 

I regret taking apart the solonoid as it is much harder to reassemble, I assume I have not dont it right as the test i did with the alligator clip does not work anymore, it worked for a second then stopped. I am going to have to figure out how to do it properly as the springs and such inside must need to be possitioned properly.

 

Anyways at this point I am debating taking out the starter to do so or just try again, as well are either of these the relays?

 

F6DCCA02-17F0-439E-A711-57F907D817B9_zps

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In the red circle - that lead with the green plastic is the fusible link. Look to the far right of that red circle there is that plug highlighted by the sunlight...I believe that is the ignition relay. I can see two black wires coming out of it. I think that's it. Narrowing down the search a bit.

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Stick a test light in those sockets. If test lights up, they are ok. If it doesn't light up, you've found the problem so then remove those wires and replace. Replace with the same gauge wire, don't go putting speaker wire on them.

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Thank you! Just an update. I had to remove the whole starter just to out solonoid back in. Anyways I cleaned and tested it. All good. So I should put it back in tomorrow. I put a multimeter in the plug leading to solonoid and to the battery while starting, no volts. So sign of bad connection.

 

Anyways quick question: when I test those links with a test light, do I simply unplug them and shoved the test light into the end leading to battery? Connect test light to negative nerminal?

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  • 2 months later...

I have a the exact same problem, ran and started fine then it stopped. I have replaced almost every relay on the ignition circuit ( starter, clutch neutral, check relay) still no power to the solenoid wire. Any body have a clue on why this might happen? 93 pathfinder se M/T

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Does anybody know where to locate the diode that is in the neutral safety circuit of the 4x4 wd21? My pathy still won't start and I have replaced all the relays and tested the starter 3 times. I'm not getting anything other than a click when I switch the key to start. I'm losing it

 

 

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I had a similar of cranking and not starting so I replaced the crank sensor or camshaft sensor people seem to call them both. Its located in the distributor and very easy to change. I went to junk yard and paid 15 bucks for 114.00 dollar part. Pull the cap and rotor off then take the two screws off the gold lid then remove the wheel pull the 3 screws holding sensor. No need to re time either as you are not messing with timing. Ive been told that 90% of ing problems are due to this sensor in the distributor.

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A bad crankshaft position sensor won't cause a click/no crank/no start. I would try the EL section of the FSM for that diode, but from what I've read it's more likely an issue with the starter switch being worn out. You could remove the clamshell, work out which wires on the ignition cylinder do what (EL section is your friend), turn the key to the run position, and basically hotwire it from there--if it starts you've ruled out everything but the switch.

 

I prefer to test for power at the plugs. Insulation with a hole in it can trap water, corrode the copper inside until it won't conduct right, and still look fine from the outside when you try to track down the issue.

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Thanks Slartibartfast, I've been chasing current every which way... As far as I can tell there's power every where but the starter won't engage. Even when I tried using a screwdriver to connect the points. Maybe I'm just testing the wrong things. I'll look into the key switch.

 

 

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