SFD Lift

[Jay302]

What exactly is a SFD lift? And where can it be located? I am new to this.

[fleurys]

SFD means sub frame drop. You acheive lift by actually <dropping> the sub frame lower. This enables you to put bigger tires and gain more lift this way.

 

You will get the lift here : http://www.krfabs.com/product_detail.php?productID=2

 

 

[CNAM]

What he said! ^

[Smallpathy]

Did any one know where to get one that link isn't working

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[mjotrainbrain]

17 minutes ago, Smallpathy said:

Did any one know where to get one that link isn't working

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Link isn't working because krfabs stopped making them quite some time ago.  As far as I know, nobody is making a kit right now, and there is some conflicting info as to what the correct measurements are if you want to make one yourself.  If you're dead-set on having one and are willing to make it yourself or have a shop build you one, I'd send somebody like Hawairish or TowndawgR50 a message and see if they can help you out with dimensions.

[Smallpathy]

 
Link isn't working because krfabs stopped making them quite some time ago.  As far as I know, nobody is making a kit right now, and there is some conflicting info as to what the correct measurements are if you want to make one yourself.  If you're dead-set on having one and are willing to make it yourself or have a shop build you one, I'd send somebody like Hawairish or TowndawgR50 a message and see if they can help you out with dimensions.

Well that sucks but since I'm putting 33s on mine I probably should

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[TowndawgR50]

The dimensions found on this forum are pretty much good with one exception, the angle of the strut spacers and the orientation of that angle. 

 

Basically, your strut spacer tube should be straight up and down (perpendicular & parallel) in relation to the trucks subframe mounting points. The angle will be the same no matter what height you choose to make your lift. Just like the subframe blocks only give vertical change, the goal is to "translate" the compound angle of the strut mounting point straight down so when you are done the factory suspension geomterty will be retained.

 

The posted prints on this site and elsewhere on the web show 8.5 degrees which is wrong. Most R50's will have anywhere from 10.4 to 12.0 degrees. There is some wiggle room so it doesnt need to be exact, but too much error on the strut spacers could result in your caster being out of spec which cannot be changed and camber being off, requiring camber bolts to correct the offset.

 

Again, your strut tube should be square to the subframe mounts when you're done. If they look like they're leaning in any direction the angle or orientation of that angle is wrong. You can check this using a digital level by zeroing or referencing the subframe mounts. 

 

Will it drive down the street if wrong? Sure. But your suspension characteristics will change from factory spec which could lead to increased wear on components and unsafe handling traits. 

[Smallpathy]

The dimensions found on this forum are pretty much good with one exception, the angle of the strut spacers and the orientation of that angle. 
 
Basically, your strut spacer tube should be straight up and down (perpendicular & parallel) in relation to the trucks subframe mounting points. The angle will be the same no matter what height you choose to make your lift. Just like the subframe blocks only give vertical change, the goal is to "translate" the compound angle of the strut mounting point straight down so when you are done the factory suspension geomterty will be retained.
 
The posted prints on this site and elsewhere on the web show 8.5 degrees which is wrong. Most R50's will have anywhere from 10.4 to 12.0 degrees. There is some wiggle room so it doesnt need to be exact, but too much error on the strut spacers could result in your caster being out of spec which cannot be changed and camber being off, requiring camber bolts to correct the offset.
 
Again, your strut tube should be square to the subframe mounts when you're done. If they look like they're leaning in any direction the angle or orientation of that angle is wrong. You can check this using a digital level by zeroing or referencing the subframe mounts. 
 
Will it drive down the street if wrong? Sure. But your suspension characteristics will change from factory spec which could lead to increased wear on components and unsafe handling traits. 

Will definitely look into it more before I start


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[Smallpathy]

The dimensions found on this forum are pretty much good with one exception, the angle of the strut spacers and the orientation of that angle. 
 
Basically, your strut spacer tube should be straight up and down (perpendicular & parallel) in relation to the trucks subframe mounting points. The angle will be the same no matter what height you choose to make your lift. Just like the subframe blocks only give vertical change, the goal is to "translate" the compound angle of the strut mounting point straight down so when you are done the factory suspension geomterty will be retained.
 
The posted prints on this site and elsewhere on the web show 8.5 degrees which is wrong. Most R50's will have anywhere from 10.4 to 12.0 degrees. There is some wiggle room so it doesnt need to be exact, but too much error on the strut spacers could result in your caster being out of spec which cannot be changed and camber being off, requiring camber bolts to correct the offset.
 
Again, your strut tube should be square to the subframe mounts when you're done. If they look like they're leaning in any direction the angle or orientation of that angle is wrong. You can check this using a digital level by zeroing or referencing the subframe mounts. 
 
Will it drive down the street if wrong? Sure. But your suspension characteristics will change from factory spec which could lead to increased wear on components and unsafe handling traits. 

Thank you btw answered a ton of questions and confusion


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[mjotrainbrain]

18 hours ago, TowndawgR50 said:

The dimensions found on this forum are pretty much good with one exception, the angle of the strut spacers and the orientation of that angle. 

 

Basically, your strut spacer tube should be straight up and down (perpendicular & parallel) in relation to the trucks subframe mounting points. The angle will be the same no matter what height you choose to make your lift. Just like the subframe blocks only give vertical change, the goal is to "translate" the compound angle of the strut mounting point straight down so when you are done the factory suspension geomterty will be retained.

 

The posted prints on this site and elsewhere on the web show 8.5 degrees which is wrong. Most R50's will have anywhere from 10.4 to 12.0 degrees. There is some wiggle room so it doesnt need to be exact, but too much error on the strut spacers could result in your caster being out of spec which cannot be changed and camber being off, requiring camber bolts to correct the offset.

 

Again, your strut tube should be square to the subframe mounts when you're done. If they look like they're leaning in any direction the angle or orientation of that angle is wrong. You can check this using a digital level by zeroing or referencing the subframe mounts. 

 

Will it drive down the street if wrong? Sure. But your suspension characteristics will change from factory spec which could lead to increased wear on components and unsafe handling traits. 

 

This is why the forum is great, CORRECT and mathematically logical answers.

[tjreif]

So I’m also looking at doing a SFD and trying to achieve around 6ish inches of lift all the way around.. I’m not really concerned about interstate driving or anything on that order I just want it to look bad ass and go through lots of mud... no rock crawling for me, so if I wants to know if I had limited slip and what gears are in it do I have to take the transfer case and diff apart or can I look it up via the Vin number... the guy that had it before me ordered it custom for going through sand dunes in California but it’s at stock hight and desperately needs new coil springs.. it’s a 1997 SE pathfinder 4wd


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[hawairish]

1 hour ago, tjreif said:

So I’m also looking at doing a SFD and trying to achieve around 6ish inches of lift all the way around.. I’m not really concerned about interstate driving or anything on that order I just want it to look bad ass and go through lots of mud... no rock crawling for me, so if I wants to know if I had limited slip and what gears are in it do I have to take the transfer case and diff apart or can I look it up via the Vin number... the guy that had it before me ordered it custom for going through sand dunes in California but it’s at stock hight and desperately needs new coil springs.. it’s a 1997 SE pathfinder 4wd

 

6" is doable, but you'll need a 4" SFD and 2" lift springs up front (OME HD/MD) and likely one of the LR springs and 2" spacers for the rear.  The gear ratio is on the door jamb sticker or the VIN plate under the hood.  Look for HG43 (4.363) or HG46 (4.636) in the corner of the tag.  If you've got an LSD, there should be an orange "LSD oil" sticker on the diff hump on the back of the axle.