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VG33e Swap (NEWBIE)


daczone
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Okay I just bought a 93 Pathfinder this weekend, 5 speed SE with 285k on it. Leaks Oil, runs decent. And after scouring the internet I learned that a VG33e swap was needed. So I located a 2000 VG33e pathfinder motor (unknown condition) I got it home last night and found that it appears to be a JDM motor by the VIN number. It appears to have compression and it an automatic. The alternator is on the passenger side.

 

Questions I have are:

 

What is the easiest way to get this motor in?

 

Will the oil pan fit?

Will the alternator fit?

Not quite sure I understand the swapping of the VG30e crank

 

As I understand it my ECU will run this motor with my electrics on it. IE: Upper plenium, TB etc. I assume I am still using the VG33e injectors.

 

Also the distributor is missing in the VG33e, I can just use my VG30e Distributor?

 

Sorry for all the questions.

 

I was thinking of doing a quick rering, freshing up the heads and perhaps swap my vg30e cam?

 

I'm looking for a good running 4x4 to pull my quads. Not really a daily driver, but it cannot leak oil or run poorly.

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Hey bud and welcome. I can't answer most of the questions as I haven't done my swap yet. New motor is on the engine stand (1996 Pathfinder motor) but this has been documented here by many. Mr.510 sells an adapter to make it plug and play (the motor). I know there is some work with the oil pump pick up tube and possibly on the brackets for the accessories. Don't remember at the moment though. Nefarious has done this swap on a couple of rigs. Maybe he will chime in but search and you will find :)

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Thank You, messaged Mr.510 directly and have read as much as I can on this subject. I'm debating whether or not to rebuild it. I guess I need to do a compression test and see what the results are.

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Okay so here is what I think I understand.... Looked at a newer pathfinder and the framerails DROP at the front of the motor. So the factory VG33 won't just bolt into the D21 frames. Correct?

 

However, If I use my VG30 mounts I may be able to hang the VG30 assessories (Alternator) and PS Pump in the factory locations and use the VG33 belts?

 

I haven't been able to track down Mr.510's pulley.I've tried here and Facebook. My guess is he isn't doing that anymore. So I need options. I hate to have to do the whole crank swap thing, seems silly to me.

 

Thanks in Advance.

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Okay I think I have this figured out.... this post is for those looking for specifics as I was.

 

I bought some parts from Mister.510 to complete the swap.

 

Since my VG33e was from a late model Pathfinder R50

My VG33e into a Pathfinder requires:

VG30e oil pan

Xterra Oil pickup tube

Xterra Oil Filter Mount

Mister.510 Crank Pulley Adapter

Alternator Bracket (modified)

Power Steering Bracket (modified)

VG30e 4x4 WaterPump (modified)

 

Mister.510 sells all of these items. So shortly I will post pics of my install. The heads are at the machine shop and I am awaiting their return. :)

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This is what $750 gets you on Craigslist

 

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93 Nissan Pathfinder SE 5 speed, 285K on it

 

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A quick window tint and some black painted wheels

 

Another search on Craigslist located a 2000 VG33e. So I picked it up ($400) mileage was said to have been 160k. So the rebuild is starting. Motor has been broken down, no suprises, leaking cam seal. A fair amount of carbon in the intake ports of the heads. So it's off to the machine shop.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

photo200.jpg

What I started with.... Ran decent, but you could smell the OIL burning. Slight blue tint to the exhaust. 285K on it. This is the VG30e in a 1993 pathfinder

 

photo201.jpg

Mister 510 Crank Pulley on a VG33e Motor, VG30 water pump, VG30 cams (not installed in this picture)

 

photo207.jpg

Hoping to have this installed this weekend.

 

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clear up a couple things that wasn't clear:

 

first off my vg33 exhaust manifolds are totally different, Luckly the vg30 manifolds work with the rear holes unlearned, the other 4 are okay. The studs on the head need to be swapped for the rear passenger side only. also you have to swap your vg30 motor mounts.

 

pulling the engine takes a great deal of patience. I slide the transmission back.

 

I have a clutch on its way and should have the motor in this next weekend.

 

the green paint was leftover from my last project, so I used it. nobody sees the motor anyway.

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Okay I think I have this figured out.... this post is for those looking for specifics as I was.

 

I bought some parts from Mister.510 to complete the swap.

 

Since my VG33e was from a late model Pathfinder R50

My VG33e into a Pathfinder requires:

VG30e oil pan

Xterra Oil pickup tube

Xterra Oil Filter Mount

Mister.510 Crank Pulley Adapter

Alternator Bracket (modified)

Power Steering Bracket (modified)

VG30e 4x4 WaterPump (modified)

 

Mister.510 sells all of these items. So shortly I will post pics of my install. The heads are at the machine shop and I am awaiting their return. :)

I'm doing a similar swap, 90 VG30E to 97 Frontier VG33E. I work at a Nissan Dealer and the Xterra and Frontier have the same oil pickup tube and oil filter mount. Which are indeed different from the R50.

 

My question lies in the VG33 to VG30 pan issue... if using a VG30 pan, does the VG33 pickup work?

 

Also, side of block has a block off plate where you can install an oil filter stud... I'm thinking about installing the stud/check valve and locating the filter where it's supposed to go... Thoughts or Experience?

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R3DN1CK, on 06 Nov 2014 - 11:48 AM, said:

I'm doing a similar swap, 90 VG30E to 97 Frontier VG33E. I work at a Nissan Dealer and the Xterra and Frontier have the same oil pickup tube and oil filter mount. Which are indeed different from the R50.

 

My question lies in the VG33 to VG30 pan issue... if using a VG30 pan, does the VG33 pickup work?

 

Also, side of block has a block off plate where you can install an oil filter stud... I'm thinking about installing the stud/check valve and locating the filter where it's supposed to go... Thoughts or Experience?

Mine was a 2000 and I definitely needed the oil filter adapter (Mister 510 sells) and the crank pulley. My motor was a 2000 VG33e and the oil pans were the same. I ended up swapping because the one on the VG33e was smashed pretty good from the previous owner.

 

The biggest PITA in this whole thing is getting the motor OUT and IN. You MUST either push the transmission back (This is the route I took) or drop the front axle (This is the route I wished I took). The transmission transfer case hits the torsion bar crossmember so it also much be dropped. Not completely out, just 2 bolts on each side and I used a come along connected to the back axle to slide the transmission back. Then the opposite way to put it back.

 

I'm nearly finished:

 

photo208.jpg

 

Hope to start it next weekend (This is a weekend project).

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Mine was a 2000 and I definitely needed the oil filter adapter (Mister 510 sells) and the crank pulley. My motor was a 2000 VG33e and the oil pans were the same. I ended up swapping because the one on the VG33e was smashed pretty good from the previous owner.

 

The biggest PITA in this whole thing is getting the motor OUT and IN. You MUST either push the transmission back (This is the route I took) or drop the front axle (This is the route I wished I took). The transmission transfer case hits the torsion bar crossmember so it also much be dropped. Not completely out, just 2 bolts on each side and I used a come along connected to the back axle to slide the transmission back. Then the opposite way to put it back.

 

I'm nearly finished:

 

photo208.jpg

 

Hope to start it next weekend (This is a weekend project).

It's alive! It fired right up, but I had a water leak at one of those small hoses at the back of the manifold, so I pulled the manifold, Should be on the road soon!

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A couple of things to share with others:

 

Probably a VG thing, but wasn't clear to me. After putting on my timing belt as I rotated the motor by hand, I noticed the timing belt marks and the cam pulleys were off. Don't panic as I did and redo the whole thing. This is by design. It walks 1 cog to the right with each stroke of the engine. The important thing is the relationship between the bottom pulley and the cam pulleys.

 

I kept the VG30 cams, I can't tell you if that makes a difference as I bought this thing, drove it once (home) with a nasty oil leak and 285K on it. I was happy it made it home. It actually ran pretty good, but the smell of the exhaust was horrid.

 

Valve cover screws though tight where not tight enough causing my first test drive to have an oil leak. Easy fix, I ended up putting a stainless washer on top of the screw as to not eat the rubber washer. No more leaks.

 

My coolant sensor wasn't pushed on all the way, giving me a nice little check engine light, easy fix.

 

It now runs like a top! I couldn't be happier, $700 for the Pathfinder + $400 for a VG33 + $250 crank pulley, brackets, belts + $100 clutch + $250 valve job + $150 gasket set + $70 timing belt and new water pump + $40 front and rear pads + $40 alarm to get my keyless entry back (Previous owner couldn't find the key fobs) + $20 white face gauges which really give it a newer look inside. So in total right around $2K which was my goal.

 

I fixed a few gremlins, Power door locks required removing the lock timer in the hatch and resoldering the main relay. Door switches all replaced. My hatch light doesn't yet work, still tracking that one down. I did use the VG33 fan, which is a little different than the VG30 (less blades but wider). I plan to go electric as I hate hearing the fan when I start it.

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Good to hear it's up and running!

 

I had issues with the cargo light on mine and ended up disconnecting the switch for it in the hatch latch. It's kind of a lousy design and the rubber bit for it was worn out. I re-routed its lead to the switch for the tire carrier idiot light (had to add a diode in line or it would light up the tire carrier light with the key out--that was a fun one to track down) and it's worked great since.

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I have a question for you dac. My engine is currently on the stand, I ended up dropping the front differential/axle. My question is were you able to access all the bell housing bolts upon reinstallation while having everything up to your valve covers assembled on the block? I had to unbolt some from the underneath and some from the top of the engine bay.

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Yes I put the engine in complete, It was a pain... but I was able to get to all of the bolts. A few swivel joints and such to get to a few of them. My motor had everything on it including the exhaust manifolds. Only thing that wasn't on was the upper intake manifold which was easy enough other than the 2 rear water hoses to the upper manifold wear leaking (because I didn't slip on the clamps)... but after that I was good. Just took some patience to get those connected as there isn't a whole lot of space there.

 

I'm wanting to do a body lift, I wish I would have done that first.

 

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It runs real good. Haven't put many miles on it, busy with the Holidays and family. Here are some more pics:

 

I've replaced the carpet and the front speakers and added EL glow gauges which are a huge improvement over the stock display.

 

IMG_0032_640.JPG

 

Interior.JPG

 

IMG_0051_640.JPG

Wonder why these sounded so bad

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