Please, for the love of God, help me....

[fpf]

I have had an unsolvable problem with my 88 pathfinder for 3 years now. I lifted it 3" with the 4x4parts.com suspension lift and it worked great for about 6 months until, i assume, something wore out so that whenever i put the vehicle in 4 wheel drive it became uncontrollable. As soon as i press on the gas when 4 wheel drive is engaged, the tires want to tow hard towards the passenger side. It cannot be driven more than 15mph in snow and is annoying on trails as well... I have now spent over 4k in diagnostics, labor, and parts and nothing has fixed it. I am ready to just light the damn thing on fire. Here is what i have replaced:

 

-CV axles with stock ones (twice now)

 

-New Stock Idler arm (rockauto.com part number K9500) combined with Sterring Stabilizer Kit (https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-steering-enhancement-package-p-2578.html)

-Front End Steering package (http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Moog-PackageDeal165)

-Heavy duty center link (http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=9&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1)

-inner and outer wheel bearings

I am at a loss. not only did replacing those parts not help, they seemed to make the problem even worse! an alignment was obviously done after the repairs. What else could be causing it to do this ONLY when the vehicle is in 4 wheel drive!?

 

Edited August 23, 2014 by fpf

[msavides]

do you have auto-locking hubs. perhaps something is wrong one side or the other either locking or not locking. I would consider getting some manual hubs. warns or mile markers.

 

I guess something could be wrong with your front diff as well, maybe something came loose and jammed to lock just one side.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 23, 2014 by msavides

[bushnut]

+1 on that. if it is pulling like mad to one side, it seems logical that power is not being evenly distributed to all 4 wheels. so I'd look at the hubs first. even just pulling the hubs apart and servicing them might do some good, and only your time was spent. but manual hubs are a good thing for the future anyway.

If that doesn't fix it, sounds like it'll be time to pull the front differential.

[gv280z]

++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...say for instance the left side output shaft is binded up and can't spin, so that leaves all the power going RIGHT, to the passenger side..that tire is pulling hard because the other is bound up. I say, engage in 4 High and lift into the air, and just try to spin the tires, if you can't spin the left but are able to spin the right, or the left is unequally stiff to spin, the right spins more easily than the left...there you go...maybe you've got a caliper locked up..could be off balance hydraulics in the brake lines, or one of your caliper piston is siezed....oh but that doesn't explain why it's exclusively in 4 wheel that you have the problem...

 

seems to me like one half of your diff is gummed up,...OR...it's a bad U joint in the axle, maybe due to a bad angle caused by the lift? Show us some pics of your front suspension and shafts.

 

Is it possible for the splines to get crossed?

Edited August 23, 2014 by gv280z

[jj big shoe]

As the others suggested, I'd take a look at the hubs. I can't remember if auto hubs are swappable between axles but if they are, swap them and see if the problem moves. I wouldn't think you could test auto hubs by spinning the wheels while the front is in the air since they would require a load on them.

 

If you think the hubs are the problem, I may still have my old auto hubs floating around somewhere you are welcome to have gratis, just pay shipping from FL. They are from my 87. Double check spline counts, I think mine is 27. I'll try to remember to check this thread regularly, let me know.

 

 

Good luck.

[gv280z]

As the others suggested, I'd take a look at the hubs. I can't remember if auto hubs are swappable between axles but if they are, swap them and see if the problem moves. I wouldn't think you could test auto hubs by spinning the wheels while the front is in the air since they would require a load on them.

 

If you think the hubs are the problem, I may still have my old auto hubs floating around somewhere you are welcome to have gratis, just pay shipping from FL. They are from my 87. Double check spline counts, I think mine is 27. I'll try to remember to check this thread regularly, let me know.

 

 

Good luck.

 

("++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...")

 

Are you referring to my post? Cause the sentence above was the only time I mentioned the hubs, if the hub locks or binds up, then it would pull just as well as the other side that is also "locked", if it is broken and fails to lock then it just wouldn't give any power when needed.

 

I'm focused on the ring and pinion gears inside the diff itself, or the output shaft may be corrupt, gnarled, binded up because of operating at a severe angle.

[Precise1]

As the others suggested, I'd take a look at the hubs. I can't remember if auto hubs are swappable between axles but if they are, swap them and see if the problem moves. I wouldn't think you could test auto hubs by spinning the wheels while the front is in the air since they would require a load on them.

 

If you think the hubs are the problem, I may still have my old auto hubs floating around somewhere you are welcome to have gratis, just pay shipping from FL. They are from my 87. Double check spline counts, I think mine is 27. I'll try to remember to check this thread regularly, let me know.

 

 

Good luck.

Yes, the hubs are swappable from side to side, and yes the 1986.5-1990 (2 door models) are 27 spline count.

Good to see you JJ!

 

The only other thing I would add is check the control arms and bushings and the compression rods and bushings. If those are significantly worn or damaged, it could a lot the wheel to move considerably, especially when the front wheel is under power. You might not feel much with 'normal' 2wd road driving...

 

B

[jj big shoe]

 

("++3 On the diff...I'm not sure about the locking hub but it seems to me something related to the diff itself...")

 

Are you referring to my post? Cause the sentence above was the only time I mentioned the hubs, if the hub locks or binds up, then it would pull just as well as the other side that is also "locked", if it is broken and fails to lock then it just wouldn't give any power when needed.

 

I'm focused on the ring and pinion gears inside the diff itself, or the output shaft may be corrupt, gnarled, binded up because of operating at a severe angle.

 

I just figured if there was a suspicion about the hubs it would be much easier to check than tearing into the diff.

 

Strange that a shop couldn't find the issue, though. They would likely love to charge for repairing a diff or axle.

[Kingman]

Hubs makes ZERO sense. Open diff, if one hub doesn't engage that CV axle will spin and the locked one will not as an open diff takes the path of least resistance. Essentially you wouldn't have 4-wheel drive. It would though if you have a LSD or front locker.

 

Sounds like its possibly the diff, or as B said, a problem with the tension rod bushings allowing the force of the pulling tire to yank the. It's a similar problem/feeling with FWD cars that have a bad LCA bushing.

 

Putting it up in the air and feeling each tire is a good idea. I'm amazed the shop hasn't done it yet. Frankly I don't think you should be paying a dime for "it might be this but we aren't sure so let's waste your money trying" jobs...

Edited August 29, 2014 by Kingman

[fpf]

do you have auto-locking hubs. perhaps something is wrong one side or the other either locking or not locking. I would consider getting some manual hubs. warns or mile markers.

 

I guess something could be wrong with your front diff as well, maybe something came loose and jammed to lock just one side.

 

 

 

 

Thanks guys! I replaced both of my auto locking hubs with mile parkers and the pulling went away! 3 years of dealing with that issue and its finally over....I think. I guess the true test will come when the snow starts to fall. unfortunately though, now that that wheel locks in it exposes another issue that wasn't noticeable before... my upper control arm bushings are totally shot so there is a ton of play in my wheel...It isn't noticeable in two wheel drive, but as soon as its in four wheel it feels like im driving on a washboard road. At least it drives straight though lol. now I guess I better replace the UCA with after market ones.... Also, the CV boot is torn, so I will be replacing that soon as well. This vehicle is going to nickel and dime me to death.

Edited August 30, 2014 by fpf

[fpf]

 

I just figured if there was a suspicion about the hubs it would be much easier to check than tearing into the diff.

 

Strange that a shop couldn't find the issue, though. They would likely love to charge for repairing a diff or axle.

That part is what blows me away. I had this thing at four wheel parts, four to go, the dealership, and some other small shops. Every single one of them attributed this to high CV angles, but couldn't for the life of them explain why my CV's would work for 6 months without issues at that same angle....After I originally replaced my CV's, four wheel parts told me that the previous guy must have used weak ones so they had me replace them again, a week later. Then when that didnt fix them, (without asking me first) they just lowered my torsion bars until my fenders were damn near riding on my tires. Effing crooks. I will absolutely NEVER go to a four wheel parts ever again.

Edited August 30, 2014 by fpf

[msavides]

did the problem go away when they lowered the ride height?

[jj big shoe]

Glad to see you've got a handle on it now. Looks like just a few more $$$ in the right parts and you'll be set. Too bad the "experts" ran you down the wrong path and spent your cash where it wasn't needed.

 

 

[fpf]

did the problem go away when they lowered the ride height?

not at all

[Precise1]

Glad you got it worked out and it was fairly simple, but sorry that it has been an issue for years!

Yeah, honestly, most people are better off coming here, asking the forum for help/input and doing it themselves. And it isn't just the price point either...

 

I've always had a problem paying for parts/labor that doesn't solve the issue. I know it isn't always their fault, but still.

 

B

[msavides]

Thanks guys! I replaced both of my auto locking hubs with mile parkers and the pulling went away! 3 years of dealing with that issue and its finally over....I think. I guess the true test will come when the snow starts to fall. unfortunately though, now that that wheel locks in it exposes another issue that wasn't noticeable before... my upper control arm bushings are totally shot so there is a ton of play in my wheel...It isn't noticeable in two wheel drive, but as soon as its in four wheel it feels like im driving on a washboard road. At least it drives straight though lol. now I guess I better replace the UCA with after market ones.... Also, the CV boot is torn, so I will be replacing that soon as well. This vehicle is going to nickel and dime me to death.

 

 

wow I missed this post before I posted my last one. lol

 

 

I had an issue where one of my auto locking hubs would lock and unlock constantly. when I would drive normally it would pull to one side then come back to center over and over. If I gave it some gas it would stay straight for a bit then I would hear a loud bang.(like a shotgun). I replaced my hubs and that all went away. getting some UCA that correct the angles from a lift will help ball joints and Half shafts last longer by running them a better angles. Depending on how much you lift your pathfinder they may help a little or a lot.

[fpf]

Ok guys so I replaced the UCA which the one from 4x4parts.com. I guess that one came in my initial kit to begin with lol. I'm a little worried as to why the bushings only lasted 3 years but oh well. Anyway, two problems: no play in the wheel anymore but my washboard problem is still there, almost worse than before somehow.... Any ideas on what this issue can be? I also took this on the highway finally and at high speeds I notice that the steering seems super loose, and the vehicle has a tendency to wander. It was dangerous enough that I actually stayed at 55 when the speed limit is 65. Seriously WTF. This problem was not there with the old worn out steering. Now everything is new and it drives worse than ever. What should I inspect first, and please don't say everything. What could have easily been mistakingly installed wrong? I'm not knowledgeable about mechanics but I did try to inspect everything for slop when it was doing the UCA. Didn't notice anything that was loose. Lastly, I did notice that the IAB was put on a little funky. The top right two corners of the idler arm are secured behind the brace while the bottom part of the arm is in the correct place. I don't blame my issues on this but I was also wondering if this will still brace that idler arm enough??? Help....

 

I can't figure out for the life of me how to upload pics. Anyone in Colorado that would be able to take a look at this for me for free out of the goodness of their heart? my wife won't let me spend anymore chasing my tail. I've spent more on this thing in the last two months than the vehicle is worth.

Edited September 15, 2014 by fpf

[Kingman]

Anytime front suspension/steering parts are changed besides shocks and sway bars it's a good idea to have the truck aligned.

[msavides]

did you upgrade the steering components?

 

make sure each component moves freely on its own.

 

I had a similar issue with my Calmini idler arm , the bushings were installed too tight and it was completely immovable, by hand. I replaced the bushings with ones from bandit bushings and everything has been great since.

 

 

[Manik]

Thanks guys! I replaced both of my auto locking hubs with mile parkers and the pulling went away! 3 years of dealing with that issue and its finally over....I think. I guess the true test will come when the snow starts to fall. unfortunately though, now that that wheel locks in it exposes another issue that wasn't noticeable before... my upper control arm bushings are totally shot so there is a ton of play in my wheel...It isn't noticeable in two wheel drive, but as soon as its in four wheel it feels like im driving on a washboard road. At least it drives straight though lol. now I guess I better replace the UCA with after market ones.... Also, the CV boot is torn, so I will be replacing that soon as well. This vehicle is going to nickel and dime me to death.

Years of having truck as "man toys" has taught me one thing, their gonna nickel and dime you, but, what toys don't.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Manik]

Ok guys so I replaced the UCA which the one from 4x4parts.com. I guess that one came in my initial kit to begin with lol. I'm a little worried as to why the bushings only lasted 3 years but oh well. Anyway, two problems: no play in the wheel anymore but my washboard problem is still there, almost worse than before somehow.... Any ideas on what this issue can be? I also took this on the highway finally and at high speeds I notice that the steering seems super loose, and the vehicle has a tendency to wander. It was dangerous enough that I actually stayed at 55 when the speed limit is 65. Seriously WTF. This problem was not there with the old worn out steering. Now everything is new and it drives worse than ever. What should I inspect first, and please don't say everything. What could have easily been mistakingly installed wrong? I'm not knowledgeable about mechanics but I did try to inspect everything for slop when it was doing the UCA. Didn't notice anything that was loose. Lastly, I did notice that the IAB was put on a little funky. The top right two corners of the idler arm are secured behind the brace while the bottom part of the arm is in the correct place. I don't blame my issues on this but I was also wondering if this will still brace that idler arm enough??? Help....

 

I can't figure out for the life of me how to upload pics. Anyone in Colorado that would be able to take a look at this for me for free out of the goodness of their heart? my wife won't let me spend anymore chasing my tail. I've spent more on this thing in the last two months than the vehicle is worth.

Believe me I understand your frustration and your wife's as well. I went through that with mine when I was installing the second engine due to one of my kids severely overheating it. Still have the original, the second and number three is in it running like a champ. Just have to persevere and get it right. My wife threatened to have mine hauled off several times, but, it's running, driving and again a functional part of the family.

If your having issues with the "washboard road effect" I'd also check to make sure that your tires aren't abnormally worn and in balance. There hasn't been any mention of it, but, that really could be a contributing factor. Shocks as well, if they're shot and wheels/tires are out of balance or abnormally worn, you'll have that issue.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fpf]

Manic, my tires are extremely worn on the inside and after replacing the new UCA and bushing the vehicle needs an alignment again. Im sure that is contributing to my issues. anyways im done with it.

 

so gents, my pathy is up for grabs. Im tired of the issues. New problems include a broken heater and a fuel gage that works intermittently. From my post you can see that damn near the whole front end is new. Also new parts include a JVC CD deck, kenwood speakers all around, and the best part is that this 88 pathy has only 96k ORIGINAL miles. Absolutely no rust, timing belt was done by the dealership at 60k, and I've always used royal purple for oil changes since i planned on keeping this forever... The pathfinder is red with grey interior. May be a perfect vehicle for someone who is going to do a SAS or who is confident they can fix the issues mentioned in this thread. I dont have this on CL yet because 1) I want whoever buys it to know the issues which are detailed here, and 2) I cant actually let this thing go for another couple of weeks. I ordered a truck and will need it until it comes in. Interested parties should send me an email so i can get them pics. You guys have a passion for these vehicles, and you and i know you will be hard pressed to find one with this low of mileage. I need 4500 for it. Not a dime less. Considering the price of used SUV's today (thanks to obummers cash for clunkers) i think that is fair.

[Manik]

Manic, my tires are extremely worn on the inside and after replacing the new UCA and bushing the vehicle needs an alignment again. Im sure that is contributing to my issues. anyways im done with it.

 

so gents, my pathy is up for grabs. Im tired of the issues. New problems include a broken heater and a fuel gage that works intermittently. From my post you can see that damn near the whole front end is new. Also new parts include a JVC CD deck, kenwood speakers all around, and the best part is that this 88 pathy has only 96k ORIGINAL miles. Absolutely no rust, timing belt was done by the dealership at 60k, and I've always used royal purple for oil changes since i planned on keeping this forever... The pathfinder is red with grey interior. May be a perfect vehicle for someone who is going to do a SAS or who is confident they can fix the issues mentioned in this thread. I dont have this on CL yet because 1) I want whoever buys it to know the issues which are detailed here, and 2) I cant actually let this thing go for another couple of weeks. I ordered a truck and will need it until it comes in. Interested parties should send me an email so i can get them pics. You guys have a passion for these vehicles, and you and i know you will be hard pressed to find one with this low of mileage. I need 4500 for it. Not a dime less. Considering the price of used SUV's today (thanks to obummers cash for clunkers) i think that is fair.

Well, we're about in the same boat. I used a cheap water pump purchased online, which will never happen again, it failed overheated and is down again. So the heads are coming off, luckily I have another set, but, I just want this thing to be reliable. I'm beginning to think that it wants to get scrapped.

 

 

Bubba.....

[Slartibartfast]

You may have a hard time getting $4500 for a rig that's not quite roadworthy. You might try a tire rotation (put the rear tires that aren't knackered up front), and possibly a DIY alignment (just to get the toe somewhere close to right) and see if that does the trick. It would still need new tires and a proper alignment job, but I imagine "needs tires and alignment" is probably an easier sell than "I'm not sure what it needs, but it's not safe to drive."

[fpf]

edit, the heater works. it was running low on coolant.

 

Slartibartfast, I have thrown around the idea of getting tires but to be honest, I feel it will be a waste of money because im not going to get that money back, and whoever buys this will probably want more aggressive tires than what I will put on it. Plus if someone wants to do a SAS they wont mind the fact that the tires are shot and it needs an alignment since everything will get ripped out anyway. I would really love to sell this to someone wanting to do that mod. I think this would be the perfect truck for that, and whoever takes the time to do it will still get another 100-200k miles out of this vehicle since it has such low miles.